November 19, 2013
I was not going to let this happen but here I am. Nearly two months since a new post. The longer I put this off the more difficult it becomes to keep the info organized and assembled into a coherent and accurate account. I want to emphasize that I am learning as I go and what I have done up to this point is to merely convey that which some times turns out to be a major blunder or innocent error on my part so beware in what you take away should you decide to repair or build an Easy Riser! I am using the Stits or now called Poly Fiber chemicals and process vs the Stewart system or the old tautening nitrate dope or Ceconite process.
Again, I later decide this is not the best process. Better to glue down the cap strips after the shrinking step. Since this was an upper
panel, I was using very light tension chord-wise tension for the top
blanket. Forgot the sequence I used on the left wing and clamped the
trailing edge root and tip with moderate span wise tension and burned
the bracket slots. LE first is the best order to do this (the
reverse of what I ended up doing on this panel). Used a paddle tip on my
soldering gun to burn both the TE mid and TE tip slots. Marked both
sets of slits while fabric was tensioned. I left it tensioned and
slipped a small piece of 4”X4”,¼ inch plate of plywood under the
fabric and used it as a backer plate to burn against.
I was not going to let this happen but here I am. Nearly two months since a new post. The longer I put this off the more difficult it becomes to keep the info organized and assembled into a coherent and accurate account. I want to emphasize that I am learning as I go and what I have done up to this point is to merely convey that which some times turns out to be a major blunder or innocent error on my part so beware in what you take away should you decide to repair or build an Easy Riser! I am using the Stits or now called Poly Fiber chemicals and process vs the Stewart system or the old tautening nitrate dope or Ceconite process.
Upper Left Wing Panel
The first swath of glue working from
the center both span wise and chord wise.
I later on decide not to glue down the rib cap strips until last (after shrinking). The root and tip tubes were glued down
first using a couple clamps to hold down the opposite end with 3-4
pounds tension. I will soon find out that there is enough shrink
available in this fabric to take out puckers and folds I was
concerned would not come out and this was accomplished at only 250 F
(actually, the Poly Fiber manual states 225F as the first pass
temperature to use). I will also find out that the fabric will stand
400 F as measured on the small iron with no noticeable problems so I
have plenty of margin to work with. In retrospect, it seems like the
best process would have been to have glued down the entire perimeter
of both the top and bottom blankets and iron the entire wing at a low
temp (225F). This should allow a nice, even tension of the entire
panel without having the ribs involved. After that is done, then the
ribs would be glued down and a final shrink done at the lowest you
need to use to just get the surface wrinkle-free (no more than 250
should be needed unless you did a really poor job of covering). With
the frame I'm working with, I still don't believe I can do much
better than about ¼ inch sag between the ribs (measured at the
height of the leading edge) mainly because I seem to be so limited on
the amount of span wise tension I can apply without putting a dog leg
in the frame.
Poly Brush brush-on first coat
complete. Notice the bottom panel is done first and left to dry
overnight and then the frame is flipped and the top is then finished
off so that I didn't have to rest the top panel surface coated with
Poly Brush onto the bench surface and risk having the P Brush stick
to the bench top.
Notice the paper slit templates laying on the table.
Arrived with the empty trailer ready to
take this wing panel back to my shop and probably end up storing it
until I get painting weather next spring. I don't think the weather
is going to last long enough for me to finish two more wings so that
I would be ready to spray paint.
Right Upper Panel.
First drew a glue line
onto both top and bottom fabric tangent points for both the TE and LE
directly onto the spars using the finger guide technique or FGT
(rest your middle and ring finger on the spar as you move down the
spar while holding the pencil between your index finger and thumb).
This works really well and is fast to do. Applied full strength
glue between these two guide lines for both spars and bottom surface
rib caps. Cut the bottom blanket to length leaving about 3-4 inches
of extra at each end (never needed more than that) and squared up the
fabric on the frame. Pulled tension on the center section of the
chord and clamped it at the root and tip. Beginning in the center of
the span, glued a section of the rib caps working out to the root and
tip.
I then glued the TE
starting at the middle bracket, working out to the tip and root ends
using a very light touch chord-wise to just get the fabric smooth and
no more. It is very easy to pull just a little bit more on each 2-4
inch tack which you just have to resist or you will end up with
puckers where the last tack strip stopped. Be checking as you work to make sure this isn't happening.
Next, I applied 3-4 lbs
span wise tension on the LE, marked the bracket slots at the “just
snug” chord-wise tension point and burned them. I proceeded to
glue down the LE using very little chord-wise tension (just enough to
pull the little pucker out right where the fabric hits the LE (fabric
tangent point). Next, I finished up the rib cap strips all the way
to the spars. Using my fingers here to hold the fabric down on the cap strip....best to use a couple magazines for this like the plans say. I did that later and it worked much better.
In tacking down the LE and
TE, I stopped about 4 inches away from the tip curve and the root rib
tube corner on both the spars and the rib tubes. I finished these
four corner areas last.
I used the small iron set
at about 350 and slowly worked the fabric around the tip curves and
root camber arch. This time it worked really well mainly because I
had not yet cut the excess fabric off and had something to pull on as
I used the iron to heat form around the curves. I used a pencil to
trace a fabric cut line onto the fabric right at the spar fabric
tangent point using the FGT. I had already traced the glue boundary
line onto the spar which I could see through the fabric as I draped
it around the spar. I traced the cut line just shy of the glue line
to make sure the glue held down the cut edge. Cut the extra fabric
off both the TE and LE to wrap onto the spar AFTER double checking
that I had finished heat forming the fabric around the tip curves and
both tip and root rib curves past the glue line. I did not allow
much more than what I needed to produce an inch and a quarter overlap
for the top blanket. It took a fair bit of time to brush on 50/50
glue/MEK mix and glue it down to the spar. If you go at this
carefully and only do a short section at a time (like about 4 inches)
you will be able to smooth out the fabric and get it to lay down nice
with no wrinkles or bubbles. This saved a lot of time later when I
used the small iron to go all around the perimeter smoothing out all
the air pockets, wrinkles and glue topography for a good,
smooth fabric to fabric overlap joint. Noticed
that I did not say at what point I burned the LE bracket slits in the
#12 report which is a critical item. I will guess that I did it after
gluing a center swath of rib caps out to the root and tip. This
would give me some chord-wise constraint as I attempted to properly
locate the slits and maintain minimum chord-wise tension.
Top Blanket
This is a shot of the upper right
panel flipped and the top blanket being applied.
Tacking down the tip end.
The entire root and tip tubes are
glued with moderate tension prior to starting on the spars (LE &
TE). This shot show the results of detailed snipping and cutting to
fit the fabric around the root rib tube LE spar joint.
A shot of typical ripples visible
on the finished panel. These can easily be ironed out at around
225F.
Gluing the LE while propped up on
a post for easy access worked well.
A look at the bottom blanket in
final form prior to sealing.
During the sealing process, I
applied the Poly Brush too heavily over the tape area and got these
nasty solvent bubbles that I could not get out. I will try to remove
them by brushing over these areas later with 65-75 Reducer. This is
the only area this happened on and I think what happened was that I
did not have the filler mixed in well enough which allowed a lot of
solvent to go right through the fabric and get trapped on the tape
surface.
Lower
Left Panel
Trimming off excess fabric on the
bottom blanket.
Leaving the excess fabric on while
using the high temp small iron was best to get the fabric to conform
around the tip curves and both rib tube curves.
Started the top side blanket on
the lower left panel after assembling the upper panel to it with temp
rigging wires and all struts in place including diagonals and rudder
to check for fold down binding. There was none and the rudder
rotated freely so I am calling it good enough. The only issue is
that after folding the panels down the leading and trailing edges
don't line up and are off about 2 or 3 inches at the tips. Since
there is nothing I can do about this short of rebuilding the entire
panel frames, I am going to push on (I had made this decision back
when I repaired the upper left panel spar and was aware then that the
panels were skewed relative to each other when folded down). The
rudder control cable was too short to reach the rudder horn so I
decided to disassemble the cable from the twist grip.
UFM shipped these assembled.
Notice how they had attached the cable to the twist grip tube. The
tube was padded with standard duct tape with the cable wrapped around
the tube. Filament tape was then used to secure the cable to the
tube and then the whole grip area was wrapped with what appeared to
be bike handle wrap tape. Brian Porter suggests I fit mine with 90
degree “handles”. His opinion was that the twist grip is OK to learn on
but after you spend an hour in the air, those twist grips get really
tiring on the forearms.
I am going to put more span-wise
tension on the lower panels than I did on the upper panels because
they should be able to take more stress since they are
shorter/stockier. This time around, I cut out templates from
notebook paper to use in locating the bracket slits and it worked
fine, no need to use heavier card stock paper and also easier to
modify. The trick still remains as to the best way to locate the
slits prior to burning them.
Top Blanket Process Steps;
- burn the tip LE bracket slits
- tension the fabric span-wise on the LE
- mark position of mid-span bracket slits (after checking that the fabric drape is parallel to the LE...i.e. probably better not to mount the blanket crooked)
- burn mid LE slits ALL GLUING FROM HERE ON IS ONLY A TACK LINE APPROX ½ INCH WIDE USING 50/50 GLUE/MEK (I did this because it allowed me to correct spots that weren't right later)
- re-tension fabric and glue LE from root to tip (used very light touch here to avoid inducing puckers along the glue line). I ended up with a wrinkle and no way to pull it out on the tip as I glued down the LE tip curve (do the curve last)
- tensioned TE span-wise leaving tip bracket outside clamped area, marked and burned the middle bracket slits. I was careful to apply almost no chord-wise tension when locating these slits...just barely enough to take out the chord-wise looseness.
- Glued fabric from mid bracket out to the root end of the TE spar and then from the mid bracket out to the tip just shy of the tip bracket.
- Did the best I could to mark the tip bracket slits and burned them. This was hard to do and I didn't get the location very good and ended up with some big, ugly slits to cover later. This bracket is so near the tip curve that it's by far the hardest bracket to locate slits for. Probably a better technique...I didn't find it.
- Tack glued both the root and tip rib tubes then went over the entire top side blanket looking for loose spots and wrinkles. I used the big iron on low(225F) and did only spot ironing to tighten out the waves and puckers I could see. I then went back over with the small iron on high (350) and went after the smaller, more difficult wrinkles and folds and got nearly everything smooth.
- Flipped the panel over and pulled the extra fabric over the spars snug so that the glue line I had drawn in as a guide in gluing up the spars was visible through the fabric. Used the finger guide against the spar technique (FGT) to sketch in my cut line onto the extra fabric with a pencil. Marked around the entire panel and then used the soldering knife tip to hot melt the cut line. I used an aluminum straight edge as a backing plate to cut against after finding that using a wood piece kept making the tip wander as it tried to follow the grain vs the cut line. I quickly concluded that using a hot knife to do this was a poor choice. A sharp scissors leaves a far superior (smooth & precise) fabric edge to glue down and takes less setup.
- Glued the rest of the fabric wrap around each spar plus the root and tip ribs
- Detailed the bracket slit areas to remove extra fabric and used the small iron to smooth things out at each bracket in prep for the cover patches. Marked and cut out cover patches as described previously except I found I could make the paper templates much easier with notebook paper vs card stock. Glued them in place using Poly Tak.
- Decided on a 20 inch piece of reinforcement fabric (4 inch wide bias tape from Aircraft Spruce) to protect the TE tip section of the panel. Both the tips come into ground contact when the glider is parked so they get the most wear. Applied a glue line after marking it out in pencil. Glued down a section on the top surface inboard of the tip bracket and let it dry. Came back later and pulled tension on the tape, wrapping it around the TE tip curve and clamped it. Used the small iron starting in the middle of the curve and slowly ironed out all the wrinkles and then glued the top part only. Used the same method on the LE where I decided to add an additional piece of reinforcement tape although not quite as long....approx. 16 inches. I later read the Poly Fiber manual and realized I had done this wrong. Apparently all reinforcement tapes, including gusset patches applied onto the fabric are cemented on using only Poly Brush, not fabric cement (Poly Tak). The reason given is that Poly Tak cement is not flexible enough. Flipped the panel and penciled in the glue line for the reinforcement tape sections and used the small iron to smooth out the tape onto the glue area prior to wetting out the fabric.
- Went over entire frame top and bottom with the small iron and smoothed out air pockets and patch areas. Used large iron to finish off the top surface after blocking in the washout (making sure the panel is properly blocked up prior to the final ironing allows you to see where you need to iron and where you don't since the frame is so flexible.
I discovered that Poly Brush
solids (the ingredient that enables the fabric pores to be plugged)
settle out and do not go into solution even after vigorous shaking.
I had to stir the stuff off the bottom where it had settled out and
gummed up. You can tell you're getting into it since it is white in
color against the iron oxide red of the solvent mix. The Poly Fiber
manual talks about the function of Poly Brush being to seal the
fabric pores and some good discussion about the cause of pinholes and
what to do about them. I was supposed to thin the Poly Brush with
65-75 Reducer (according to the Poly Fiber manual) but Ernie never
dilutes Poly Brush with the first brush-on coat. I plan to use the
Reducer when I brush coat the last wing just to see if I have less or
more pinhole/bubble problems. I have now completed the first lower
wing panel through Poly Brush sealing and am on to the last remaining
wing panel. Here are the other photos of the progression on the
first lower panel;
Used the side of my hand to apply
even but very light tension chord-wise as I tacked the spars.
View of the tip end after tacking
it in place. Loose areas like this one I released the tack and
pulled most of it smooth and re-tacked it. What was left the iron
took care of easily.
A shot of the TE tip area after
tacking. Notice there are some folds that will need to come out with
the iron.
I continue to screw up the bracket
slit locations. Fortunately, these ugly holes are easily covered
with the patches applied after Poly Brush sealing.
A shot of me using the FGT (finger
guide technique described earlier) to draw the fabric cut line.
Here I am trying out the hot knife
approach to cutting the fabric along the cut line. This did not work
well. It required a backer plate to cut against, was hard to hold a
straight line and also tended to form melt beads in the fabric since
you cannot control the tip temperature. Use a good, sharp scissors
instead.
Didn't read the manual and glued
on this reinforcement bias tape to the high wear area on the TE tip
along with all the gusset patches on this wing. All tapes and
patches should be put on AFTER the first brush coat of Poly Brush per
the manual since glue is too inflexible.
Finished with initial brush-on
coat of Poly Brush.
Lower
Right Panel
I will try to describe the best of
everything I've learned for this last panel starting with the
finished frame.
First off, I wrapped all the rib
gussets with chafing tape (athletic tape works fine) as well as
anywhere the fabric wraps over rivets or gussets to minimize wear on
the fabric. The plans did not call for this but I think it's worth
doing.
Used the FGT(see above) to draw
glue lines onto the spars at the fabric tangent point. I did not
strip the old glue (Super Seam) after the Poly Fiber tech told me
these glues are compatible.
Applied full strength glue between
these lines with a ½ inch brush with the frame propped up off the
table with a support post for easy access rather than flipping the
frame and having to make two, separate glue passes to get the glue
area covered.
Applied glue to the bottom surface
rib cap strips only. Save the top surface rib cap glue for later.
Bottom Blanket
Roll out the fabric and cut to
length. Even out the overlap on both LE and TE and clamp the four
corners so that the fabric slack is mostly pulled out. Tack down
both the root and tip rib tubes with desired tension (3-4 lbs)
alternating back and forth from root to tip to keep the fabric even.
Stop about 4-5 inches away from the tip curve and the same from the
root rib tube corners. Take out the chord-wise slack and apply 3-4
lbs tension to the LE fabric and clamp it in place. Tack down the
LE starting in the middle and working out to within 4-5 inches of the
root and tip rib tubes. Use a very light touch on chord-wise
tension. The idea is to tack down the fabric along the straight line
of tension you are applying parallel to the LE and resist pulling on
it which only pulls it out of alignment. Repeat on the TE except
this time you want to take out the chord-wise slack using enough
tension to have a final, smooth fabric surface free of slack or major
wrinkles. Continue to tack the root and tip rib tubes moving right
on around the tip curve and the root rib tube and finish off both the
LE and TE to completely join the tack lines. This is the easiest
panel surface you have on the entire airframe (it's short and strong
and also has no bracket slits to contend with). so do it first saving
the upper panel bottom surfaces for last. You may get some small
wrinkles and puckers especially in the root and tip sections which
will have to be ironed out later so try to keep them from happening
in the first place. Use the FGT and pencil in the cut line onto the
fabric tail to be cut off all around the perimeter of the panel.
Make sure you draw this slightly short of the glue area on the spars
to ensure the fabric edge will hit glue when cut off and wrapped onto
the spar. Use the small iron on high (350F) and heat-form the fabric
around the tip curve. Best technique I found was to pull tension on
the tail and wrap the fabric around the tube while working the iron
around the tube. Start in the middle of the curve and work out and
take some time. If you do, you will likely get zero pleats or
wrinkles. Keep wrapping and forming until you are an 1/8 inch past
the cut line. Work the rib camber curve area in the same manner for
both the tip and root. There is also some detail cutting and
snipping to be done to fit the fabric around the root rib tube where
it joins the TE and LE. Using a sharp scissors, cut off the excess
fabric and begin the finished gluing of the entire frame perimeter.
I used the same order as I did to tack the fabric. If the glue lines
you penciled in are not still easy to see, re-trace them now. You
will need to be able to see them through the top blanket fabric.
Top Blanket
Set the panel up onto a support
post and apply full strength glue between the glue guide lines you
drew for the bottom panel. Keep the glue from going past the edge of
the fabric which should stop right at the fabric tangent point. If
you don't, when you do final gluing of the top blanket, the fabric
can stick down past the tangent line and form little puckers just
inboard on the spar and they are almost impossible to get out while
maintaining very light chord-wise tension.
Lay the panel flat on a table with
a washout support block in place and apply glue to the rib cap strips
going right on over the filament tape. Go extra heavy over the anti
chaffing tape because it will absorb the glue like a sponge.
Rolled out the fabric and cut it
with about 4 inches extra on both ends.
Tacked down about 12 inches on the
root rib tube just aft of the last LE tape strip using maybe 4-5
pounds of tension (a bit more than the bottom because you need the
tension to hold the fabric up between the ribs so support the small
amount of chord-wise tension you'll need to apply to get a smooth
fabric surface that won't flutter in flight.
Repeat on tip. Ended up with some
small span-wise waves and puckers which will come out when I apply a
little chord-wise tension later on.
Extended gluing on both root and
tip tube ribs stopping short of the tip curve and the spars at the
root end.
Tacked down the LE starting at the
root out to the tip. Very light touch on chord-wise tension. Just
barely enough to avoid a pucker at the fabric tangent point on the LE
spar.
Clamped LE at tip and root with
moderate tension to locate and burn the middle bracket slit.
I made a paper template to pencil
trace the slits onto the fabric prior to burning them.
Applied final LE tension and
located tip bracket and burned it in.
Starting from the middle bracket,
tacked the LE to the root and then to the tip stopping short of the
curve at the tip.
Clamped moderate tension on TE and
located, then burned the middle bracket slits with just enough
chord-wise tension to just take up the slackness in the fabric
without any pull down between ribs.
Proceed to tack glue the LE from
the middle bracket to the tip and then to the root stopping short of
the tip curve.
Applied final tension of TE
(guessing 4-5 lbs) and located, then burned the tip bracket slits.
Again, with minimal chord-wise tension. There should be almost no
detectible pull down between ribs in the area just aft of the last
span of filament tape.
Tack glue the TE beginning at the
middle bracket to the tip and then to the root stopping short of the
tip curve.
Tack glue the tip rib using light
span-wise tension. Work from the center of the tip rib tube out to
the LE and then repeat out to the TE and continue right on around the
curve. Tack a thin strip approx. ¼ wide right at the fabric tangent
line.
Tack the root rib tube the same
way except pull moderately strong span-wise tension as you glue(4-5
lbs?). If you are careful, you should have almost no wrinkles,
folds, puckers or pleats. Even after all the practice I've had doing
this, I still get some but they come out with the iron at 225F. Any
left after that, I hit with the small iron set at high (350F).
Fix any problem areas if needed by
releasing the tack line with MEK and re-gluing. With the panel bottom
side down on the table, wrap the excess fabric around the spars and
trace a line onto the fabric right over the cut line you drew on the
spars.
Heat
forming to the curves
Take the small iron and slowly
work the fabric down into the glue all along the tip curve while
applying some tension on the fabric tail (this is why you didn't cut
this off yet, you need it to hang onto and pull to help form the
fabric to the curve.....if you cut off the excess and try to form
the fabric, you will end up with pleats that you cannot iron out).
The glue acts like hot melt glue
when you do this and actually sticks down. Get as much as you can
from the bottom side and then flip the frame over and finish it. You
should be able to get all the pleats worked out right up to the cut
line and a little past it.
Repeat this process all along the
root rib tube.
Use a nice, sharp scissors and cut
the excess fabric off. There is some detail work around the root rib
tube that you'll have to screw with to get it to look good including
the slit for the rudder control cable.
Final
Gluing
Start gluing the fabric from the
middle bracket out on both the LE and TE. The only way this worked
for me was using my bare finger and a ½ inch brush doing about a 3
inch section at a time moving as fast as I could. The idea is to
smash and work the 50/50 glue/MEK through the fabric into the glue
layer on the spar. If it doesn't seem to be wetting out the glue
layer underneath, dilute the mix with more MEK. Even though you
heat-formed the fabric around the tip curves and root rib tube, it
still needs to be glued so just make sure you've gone all the way
around the entire frame once you start gluing. Save gluing the rib
cap strips for the very last thing you do prior to applying the Poly
Brush sealant. Go around the entire frame and iron out any
topography over the entire frame glue area you just finished. The
entire frame perimeter should be nice and smooth when you are done.
Ironing
Set the big iron to 225F, check
that the washout block is in place and hit areas that are the least
taut first. The idea here is to get somewhere close to even tension
on the entire panel and remove all wrinkles and puckers in the
fabric. I watched the inter rib pull down very closely as I did this
to make sure I didn't go any further than necessary to remove
wrinkles and get a reasonable fabric tension (whatever that is). I
never had to go past 225F to get all the wrinkles out. You can go
all the way up to 350F with no fabric degradation if you had to. Let
the glue dry overnight.
Sealing
Mix the Poly Brush 3:1 with one
part 65-75 Reducer. Use a stirring stick to get the filler off the
bottom of the can of Poly Brush and get it completely stirred into
the solvent. It is a whitish material and settles out really fast as
gum on the bottom of the can. I brushed this on in a shop with the
temp set to 65F where it was 50F outside and raining in Oregon and
had no trouble with blushing. Used a 3 inch disposable natural
bristle brush which had nice and soft bristles (the polyester ones were too stiff and not well tapered). Fast and easy was
the trick. Avoid slopping it on. Brush out any bubbles that form
since they will dry in the coat and only come out if you go back
later with solvent which is a pain to do.
What's
next
I had some ugly, oversized bracket
slits after doing a poor job of properly locating them. I'll cut
nice patches later and apply them with Poly Brush sealant over the
first brush-on coat applied above
Thank you very much for posting your findings on your recovering venture. I have found it very helpful. I bought a old easy riser this summer, and fear that I will need to recover it before I attempt to put it in the air. I wonder if you might share copies of your plans. I have never attempted a recover. Happy flying!
ReplyDeleteBrandon,
Deletehappy to help you. email me direct at the following gmail account:
jcoyier at gmail dot com
Great site. My dad is John Moody. I am restoring his original Icarus 2. Interested in following my progress? No doubt, your experience and my dad's will be invaluable!
ReplyDelete