tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-62143186673958719242024-02-19T08:28:31.730-08:00Easy Riser glider frame repair diaryUFM Easy Riser repair diary including airframe re-rig and re-cover process. This is the foot-launched glider version, not the motorized version. The start date on this blog is April 2013.jcoyierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14560463891091725092noreply@blogger.comBlogger19125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6214318667395871924.post-63413317277761457112016-05-04T14:41:00.002-07:002017-09-10T11:36:05.606-07:00#19 Rudder Stop Blocks<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
I decided the rudder mechanism needs to
be adjustable. The way it is now, you have to set exactly the right
angle for the rudder in neutral (no drag position) and then wrap the
control cable around the hang tube and tape it in place so it's
really set during construction with no easy way to adjust it once the
glider has been built. Here's my idea of making it adjustable without adding heavy turnbuckles.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Replace the existing front stop
(appears to be made out of Delrin plastic or something similar) with
a stop that is slotted.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Wood was the only easily obtainable
material for me so that's what I used in my first prototype. The
cage tubing is 2 inch so I started with a 2 inch Forstner bit for $9
at my local hardware store and drilled a hole through a piece of
hardwood block I had laying around. Cutting it down to something
close to the original stop piece I then used a router to cut the
slots for the machine screws I used. I drilled out two of the
mounting holes for the original piece in order to accommodate
aluminum nutserts I bought at my local hardware store.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
The original stop:</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK1GoINyw62nzHc4tYOgPhkHDV6whvdOqI4rxTAhr3vFexwOHt06690nHC5RTSgeMtckv2Q4oF0hfYLevCtbb6Dy2WpLO9k0NpqGzquOe-vVrfXQOd5giyhOS6q3_bAyuWEQ_PPd4zAQ/s1600/IMG_0640+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK1GoINyw62nzHc4tYOgPhkHDV6whvdOqI4rxTAhr3vFexwOHt06690nHC5RTSgeMtckv2Q4oF0hfYLevCtbb6Dy2WpLO9k0NpqGzquOe-vVrfXQOd5giyhOS6q3_bAyuWEQ_PPd4zAQ/s320/IMG_0640+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Nut serts mounted in only two of the
drilled out original holes</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZL-0CEUFuuFk6Igr-TQ1GsB6r_YXXRlh3ar6eF6uFUIcN5pH2lpfLz6iFZhGVMsQnMIYJMBL4AeOpFamnnZgYD4bFzsrp4Y6hM35HtwEGBKsKxocwmcxyASIqajpnFkO7FpKXzHgE0Q/s1600/IMG_0641+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZL-0CEUFuuFk6Igr-TQ1GsB6r_YXXRlh3ar6eF6uFUIcN5pH2lpfLz6iFZhGVMsQnMIYJMBL4AeOpFamnnZgYD4bFzsrp4Y6hM35HtwEGBKsKxocwmcxyASIqajpnFkO7FpKXzHgE0Q/s320/IMG_0641+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
The slotted replacement stop block
prior to sanding</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBmTrCXrmCQqqAOMbY8oFqnEuoZUgTGGDIMdXcbxR2iDKUaJMZ-fAAAsSFtCV1gGtIYSFODJbfnCkqip6-Jb7QsO2V_lqCqUxPzBi_16EOFwbfpNjlujC2yJLgC_zPFUbtGoO7k8vjvA/s1600/IMG_0642+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBmTrCXrmCQqqAOMbY8oFqnEuoZUgTGGDIMdXcbxR2iDKUaJMZ-fAAAsSFtCV1gGtIYSFODJbfnCkqip6-Jb7QsO2V_lqCqUxPzBi_16EOFwbfpNjlujC2yJLgC_zPFUbtGoO7k8vjvA/s320/IMG_0642+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXRbimd72PU-cYYg4CqygPm5LuXpUqv2PhJvH0SyDcOnbTfpSRD7HT6g0AoLyiIJRES9NA-FW2zEIbFHZ2p3cSzkkF5lVtcdi31ts1aoTC12zZTBBLdqhS8VtusIxeQ5sc7swroW6zpg/s1600/IMG_0643+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXRbimd72PU-cYYg4CqygPm5LuXpUqv2PhJvH0SyDcOnbTfpSRD7HT6g0AoLyiIJRES9NA-FW2zEIbFHZ2p3cSzkkF5lVtcdi31ts1aoTC12zZTBBLdqhS8VtusIxeQ5sc7swroW6zpg/s320/IMG_0643+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
The finished replacement stop block
mounted using two machine screws.</div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijv71OespMwtAVzib6JP2EK4ymIyZ2iWCAmYzihZDhCTQwgkn9n1IGRMiI2SvN4hyphenhyphenD3PjXaNFeZbYEymkVTX27wzlwMNj4RIxg_wbkay6C_eKrxPyPCZc267DcXA87I4ekklp6YogXYg/s1600/IMG_0652+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijv71OespMwtAVzib6JP2EK4ymIyZ2iWCAmYzihZDhCTQwgkn9n1IGRMiI2SvN4hyphenhyphenD3PjXaNFeZbYEymkVTX27wzlwMNj4RIxg_wbkay6C_eKrxPyPCZc267DcXA87I4ekklp6YogXYg/s320/IMG_0652+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I chose the hole set that best lined up with the middle of the range of final adjustment I was looking for on the rudder. I got lucky and ended up with the block set right in the middle of the slots so I can adjust either way. I'll probably tape some tell tale yarns on the rudder to make the final adustment.</div>
</div>
jcoyierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14560463891091725092noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6214318667395871924.post-60803863598809745212016-05-03T22:54:00.001-07:002018-01-12T16:02:03.621-08:00 #18 Strut Fairings<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
I've decided the struts need to be
faired. After a lot of thinking, I decided on a foam rib approach
using a NACA streamline form, finess ratio of 4.500/1.145 or 3.93. I
got this by downloading the NACA 20 streamline shape data into
OpenOfficeCalc (freeware version of MS Excel) and rescaling it to get
something slightly over 1” thick. This gives me a rib profile that
has enough of a wall thickness (just a bit over 1/16”) to be able
to slip it over the 1.0” strut tube without tearing out. Here are
my notes on figuring out what foam to use;</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Lowe's – Dow Styrofoam TM, Square
Edge Insulation board (blue)</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
comes in 0.55,0.78, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5,
3.0, 4.0 thick boards 2X8 and 4X8 sheets<br />
Home Depot - Owens Corning Formular 150 (pink)</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
material density</div>
<ul>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Aircraft Spruce blue foam (9.0
oz/16 oz/lb)/(0.5/12x2x4 ft3) = 1.69ft3</div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Square Edge 33.85 oz/16
oz/lb/(2/12x2x4 ft3) = 1.59 lbs/ft3</div>
</li>
<li>Formular 150 = 1.3 lbs/ft3</li>
</ul>
<div>
Formular vs Square Edge compressive strength is stated at 15 vs 25psi so I'm choosing Square Edge. I'm guessing the fairing to be approx 60% of a
1x5x44 stick and there are 14 of them (7 per side)</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
.6x(1x5x44)x1 ft3/1728 in3 = 1.07 ft3
of foam for all the fairings</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
amounts to 1.69-1.59=0.1 lbs or 1.6 oz
difference between the two foams (and the Dow stuff is both cheaper
and lighter) I see no advantage in using Aircraft Spruce foam not to
mention it is extremely expensive.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<ol>
<ol start="59">
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
At 1.59lbs x 1.07 ft3 = 1.7 lbs for
the fairings minus pi x 1” cut out of the middle which I'm
guessing to be 50% of the fairing profile area. This would leave
maybe 1.0 pound of material for the fairing plus whatever I end up
using to cover it (Monofilm) and the trailing edge strip which I
plan to use balsa for the initial proto.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<i><span style="color: red;">As it turned out, I used a rib and beam structure which is significantly lighter in weight than what I figured on here. I never did weigh it out so do not know what the final fairing was.</span></i></div>
</ol>
</ol>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
The aluminum fairings (there were only
6 per side) weighed in at 34.3oz (2.14 lbs without the tape or
rivets)
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
So, I expect roughly half the weight to
do foam fairings vs aluminum and also they should be less drag.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Dow Square Edge showed no problems at
225F from the fabric iron. Should tolerate all the model iron-on
films out there.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
A bit of research on the internet
revealed Gorilla Glue to work well in gluing foam. I tried a sample
and saw the foam fail and not the glue-foam joint. Now for the
fabrication process....</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
My idea uses ribs, leading edge and
trailing edge beams glued together with a polyurethane waterproof
glue marketed as Gorilla Glue and is widely available.<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<b>THE RIBS</b></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
I decided to rough-cut a template from
plywood for the ribs and then sand it to the exact profile using a
vertical disc sander. The first step was to drill a 1.0” hole
through the plywood. I used cabinet grade since I will need to make
several hundred ribs. I then positioned the paper profile over the
1” hole as close as I could to center and traced out the pattern
onto the plywood. Next I rough cut to the outside of the profile
using a band saw and then carefully sanded up to the line using a
disc sander. I drilled a couple holes on each side of the template
and drove some smooth shank nails flush.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiGC1inXUTkJgis2kdJudkcxL7fsEU6cdCPrcA9t3sBoVtYOjztRNH8lgU3vT9hfqqjAEjyTH2RpCywEPsAhh-KvOld-9Q01V5TSNX8Rwf8mQVmvB6zfSQLTSFnS-y5n48lqNMtw08Fw/s1600/IMG_0603.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiGC1inXUTkJgis2kdJudkcxL7fsEU6cdCPrcA9t3sBoVtYOjztRNH8lgU3vT9hfqqjAEjyTH2RpCywEPsAhh-KvOld-9Q01V5TSNX8Rwf8mQVmvB6zfSQLTSFnS-y5n48lqNMtw08Fw/s320/IMG_0603.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
I bought a 1/2” router bit with a
bearing on the shaft end to ride against the plywood form mounted in
a cheap router table I borrowed. I had access to a hot wire set up
so didn't need to make my own. I did find that I wanted to replace
the nichrome wire which was too thick with a stainless steel fishing
leader I ordered from Cabela's. Too small of wire cuts too slow and
to large a wire transfers too much heat....trial and error.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Rough cut piece of half inch thick foam
mounted onto the template.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_HaXm7gDMccAI1UyLelzZZnOFwG6fNm_AgaKJJlmpOh2ft0ZM0jke47M9ZGV6Fa1HYZcYQ2GUdNh9OMQpOXk4c3mn8UUEKrRZMD8aB7eSx_QP2M5tVdSuk0lfP9RjuHc9ewyKnq7nHw/s1600/IMG_0604.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_HaXm7gDMccAI1UyLelzZZnOFwG6fNm_AgaKJJlmpOh2ft0ZM0jke47M9ZGV6Fa1HYZcYQ2GUdNh9OMQpOXk4c3mn8UUEKrRZMD8aB7eSx_QP2M5tVdSuk0lfP9RjuHc9ewyKnq7nHw/s320/IMG_0604.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Starting the cut</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnNlOgabhPK27awkHpgYyJQLJvCuWfhf132YZKlWUMeGMhuascoukVfT-IOA8Q3WPf9ZXkIDZ2cHsE3Gen6MXVsU9W4KYfLFiv4rkJclW6ZIeRjaF2wmVDaG-nLiPwJ5DWlLPrr3Ktow/s1600/IMG_0605.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnNlOgabhPK27awkHpgYyJQLJvCuWfhf132YZKlWUMeGMhuascoukVfT-IOA8Q3WPf9ZXkIDZ2cHsE3Gen6MXVsU9W4KYfLFiv4rkJclW6ZIeRjaF2wmVDaG-nLiPwJ5DWlLPrr3Ktow/s320/IMG_0605.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
First pass complete.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPmI_A3pqtO31gNsqHiUvxSpgPi9q8vqJC7eI58YU227sX_K-daVrHbQhYgrAtYvx9gve2lpTpNhZEogXsu6WXqNhbJS7uD7P3yFZuZIN_RuOW_oStewbKibAaDVmQSDZR2DI3oKvT4g/s1600/IMG_0606.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPmI_A3pqtO31gNsqHiUvxSpgPi9q8vqJC7eI58YU227sX_K-daVrHbQhYgrAtYvx9gve2lpTpNhZEogXsu6WXqNhbJS7uD7P3yFZuZIN_RuOW_oStewbKibAaDVmQSDZR2DI3oKvT4g/s320/IMG_0606.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Trimming off the last bit on the
trailing edge</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJsyHOVFs-ETZieJKkap9mgjN3LFIMHghsL_heHNqSgXBhntJ5AR_hp-6QlePcrwSxhV9GVk_2ufiBJKNNhV5ob_TPZxOVTDqs4eJ-uh13JPmhCENzlZV2cGU7GYUIu20LdTY6KGj90Q/s1600/IMG_0607.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJsyHOVFs-ETZieJKkap9mgjN3LFIMHghsL_heHNqSgXBhntJ5AR_hp-6QlePcrwSxhV9GVk_2ufiBJKNNhV5ob_TPZxOVTDqs4eJ-uh13JPmhCENzlZV2cGU7GYUIu20LdTY6KGj90Q/s320/IMG_0607.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Next with the router</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW8amw89_xAeOYtmb4JpXDHrDl6EP_gOyGFQm14a0HklxOydU_2RCV48SY_q8d3gY5dUCmccHhgbw6GEC1xljKQSS7_vgWtE5xQCkfar_RwVZVWAt0aQORIVG64VlOMS7v_RKNjKDWIQ/s1600/IMG_0608.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW8amw89_xAeOYtmb4JpXDHrDl6EP_gOyGFQm14a0HklxOydU_2RCV48SY_q8d3gY5dUCmccHhgbw6GEC1xljKQSS7_vgWtE5xQCkfar_RwVZVWAt0aQORIVG64VlOMS7v_RKNjKDWIQ/s320/IMG_0608.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
The finished hole</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeYCCW3acI-1bKk3BVkfO7AZVseH9LEsjH8WiasjA8N9Y7BJfeW0uMOXesqqyGqH3MtBpWq0mjQh5BovKb3aIUpwLqT3iQuhb_i0uhHKDieNPvRtQm2BHCim8yrhdx9C2CmdLO-1eW-A/s1600/IMG_0609.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeYCCW3acI-1bKk3BVkfO7AZVseH9LEsjH8WiasjA8N9Y7BJfeW0uMOXesqqyGqH3MtBpWq0mjQh5BovKb3aIUpwLqT3iQuhb_i0uhHKDieNPvRtQm2BHCim8yrhdx9C2CmdLO-1eW-A/s320/IMG_0609.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Complete rib removed from the template</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnAkAmE09wXac6FqizqSxEntygHv4ZdzRCsWuRO7OuvDnT0VTzjTmi7fRm_OGdx3Uz1KZCx3Y4g6qt03rUlywzhwPkv58OjAOQoywFU9Rm0422M2sXNQs8v3JxhH6YDC0KPnkQNzreTQ/s1600/IMG_0610.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnAkAmE09wXac6FqizqSxEntygHv4ZdzRCsWuRO7OuvDnT0VTzjTmi7fRm_OGdx3Uz1KZCx3Y4g6qt03rUlywzhwPkv58OjAOQoywFU9Rm0422M2sXNQs8v3JxhH6YDC0KPnkQNzreTQ/s320/IMG_0610.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<b><br /></b>
<b>THE INTER-RIB BEAMS</b></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
I arbitrarily chose a 3 3/8ths inch
spacing between ribs and fabricated both a trailing edge and leading
edge beam to form a complete structure for the film covering I used.
The leading edge beam was 5/8 thick and the trailing edge beam was 1
inch thick. This structure formed a strong enough frame to support
the monofilm covering I used and proved to be more durable than I had
anticipated for normal set-up and break-down wear and tear.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Here is the completed trailing edge
form lying on the hot knife table</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Ft09zUWzgz6iyBFxMKmYHiCG7O5ko4UQ7LsCvYp6_IzwB0MPHFJdEA7qjUxXDSIpW1EwROpmhi92R4gJV4WG3-ivrzkksih9GCdnys_VVvgIfCgRx-sFAaps1HnhuPOK3zvFg89mNA/s1600/IMG_0668.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Ft09zUWzgz6iyBFxMKmYHiCG7O5ko4UQ7LsCvYp6_IzwB0MPHFJdEA7qjUxXDSIpW1EwROpmhi92R4gJV4WG3-ivrzkksih9GCdnys_VVvgIfCgRx-sFAaps1HnhuPOK3zvFg89mNA/s320/IMG_0668.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
In this shot the block of foam is in
the form held by shoving a hat pin into it through the hole I drilled
in the form. This helped to keep the foam from shifting while doing
the cutting.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk_63VRuC1XF9LkI88GZUEFy0oTBByuB-jw9m7-QzRlbpy98wADLhZ1duz3EZg82EdvHnfKYMyiy6lIMNh4Ual9vv9Rj2vqdBpO5t-ruGAadgqhnXSBaHf1WX_4cicusSNrz6pNGu41w/s1600/IMG_0669.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk_63VRuC1XF9LkI88GZUEFy0oTBByuB-jw9m7-QzRlbpy98wADLhZ1duz3EZg82EdvHnfKYMyiy6lIMNh4Ual9vv9Rj2vqdBpO5t-ruGAadgqhnXSBaHf1WX_4cicusSNrz6pNGu41w/s320/IMG_0669.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
In this shot, looking down onto the hot
knife table at the form, I have just finished the first cut.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO6qX7SpQ-9ZKtOxLd9R3AUyTnxarKuvwLmJIxNnFbH1CDC3sgqn6wIlusvtWr8r_uaAPM2h-Sd2hjDlhQ4ENs-_8VthbXghxgH8Qi8TFn71vYPAQQMxlRhxqqgMjvrhQfTgZtkz0nBw/s1600/IMG_0670.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO6qX7SpQ-9ZKtOxLd9R3AUyTnxarKuvwLmJIxNnFbH1CDC3sgqn6wIlusvtWr8r_uaAPM2h-Sd2hjDlhQ4ENs-_8VthbXghxgH8Qi8TFn71vYPAQQMxlRhxqqgMjvrhQfTgZtkz0nBw/s320/IMG_0670.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
The completed beam ready to be put in
the finished pile.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf3XpHiFgu-TrGu70rWpGpdgSuWApOI7HgzSaVnRi-EiPHHRBDh3OhlNdpaK5-aq2F_ZtL3B0e3L02d9GW_vdt-Gn9_YARzQJoCILnZpNX2Iehf7Upl4lssJg1nz8rn6BtCW4r2fbsWg/s1600/IMG_0671.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf3XpHiFgu-TrGu70rWpGpdgSuWApOI7HgzSaVnRi-EiPHHRBDh3OhlNdpaK5-aq2F_ZtL3B0e3L02d9GW_vdt-Gn9_YARzQJoCILnZpNX2Iehf7Upl4lssJg1nz8rn6BtCW4r2fbsWg/s320/IMG_0671.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
The leading edge beams were made using
the leading edge profile and a form just like the trailing edge form.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
This shot shows the strut with all the
ribs in place ready for the beams to be glued in.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKiLzABqkvLB9dxzBCmRyWSHD27cWdBI1jmgmxyr9bzVttrWOgkpeJ2LMs-B9i7Jd09HLik_9AhHr3veNFrTf4EctRJWOyckPJYuYGQOoBCPb1FdmeCeD4ccDqmASocrAyjeEErzsyQg/s1600/IMG_0601.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKiLzABqkvLB9dxzBCmRyWSHD27cWdBI1jmgmxyr9bzVttrWOgkpeJ2LMs-B9i7Jd09HLik_9AhHr3veNFrTf4EctRJWOyckPJYuYGQOoBCPb1FdmeCeD4ccDqmASocrAyjeEErzsyQg/s320/IMG_0601.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
I used small rubber bands to hold the
ribs against the beams while the glue set up. I learned later that this was not necessary and just added extra time to the fabrication process. The glue is tacky enough to easily hold the joints together during cure.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZa00fggPwipGpKnuVw30zsxHvX0ZSPTmMpMBDO6g8ToExXKJVDaN8Mn5QVbpYUlPv6M4x4FS0relTfZREdkOnwv3MPY97ztGxcAdJKBsbSVwQMewE6PgdyJffkgr-VvotKHXEGcv1Ng/s1600/IMG_0625.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZa00fggPwipGpKnuVw30zsxHvX0ZSPTmMpMBDO6g8ToExXKJVDaN8Mn5QVbpYUlPv6M4x4FS0relTfZREdkOnwv3MPY97ztGxcAdJKBsbSVwQMewE6PgdyJffkgr-VvotKHXEGcv1Ng/s320/IMG_0625.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
I used a flat 2X4 with a long piece of
180 grit self adhesive sandpaper as my sanding bed to even up any
topography problems that came up as a result of me not aligning the
beams and ribs exactly and also to make the trailing edge a straight
line. I used monofilm applied with a hot
iron exactly as in model plane covering.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
This shot shows the fairing end covered.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb7Ss9J_LDO1_8pa9qMvyvYpyKdnW7300GqzssmVQ-udW8odPDbpG1TXy4R0Ly5ynIveT17HTu7I6cww2x1w0BnM_QTULp-NIcf72rYRidKBBW07soUNBWeD6gWFLQ8lWo61YAF-Suvg/s1600/IMG_0673+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb7Ss9J_LDO1_8pa9qMvyvYpyKdnW7300GqzssmVQ-udW8odPDbpG1TXy4R0Ly5ynIveT17HTu7I6cww2x1w0BnM_QTULp-NIcf72rYRidKBBW07soUNBWeD6gWFLQ8lWo61YAF-Suvg/s320/IMG_0673+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a><span style="text-align: left;">Laying out the main sheet of monofilm
to begin the covering process.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh27r7RQXculmRHjQ4xn0lb0MVEwwYa86cSKHxzcC4aHWlRSRWAEiOtQGtdyOKQ9M70-PWeGeCOyDz2pdISZriQd0c9oLkJVd8w0tMMWoqv3AQrET2PAFcgVt2WzIOh0oY3m9kmxdyJSg/s1600/IMG_0675+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh27r7RQXculmRHjQ4xn0lb0MVEwwYa86cSKHxzcC4aHWlRSRWAEiOtQGtdyOKQ9M70-PWeGeCOyDz2pdISZriQd0c9oLkJVd8w0tMMWoqv3AQrET2PAFcgVt2WzIOh0oY3m9kmxdyJSg/s320/IMG_0675+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYhUDlpBKl8kJX191Ri_-v0byMwn7CDSvu6iPNy62JtN79t5SYSqs4KC4rY-m_toOZ67KeT00gGja-289Q5nlQj-mhzvHmWGe6aAKPUl7WeG22W04mnFY3xuF_aP0LlsXEavFO-54NIg/s1600/IMG_0693+%25281000x474%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="151" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYhUDlpBKl8kJX191Ri_-v0byMwn7CDSvu6iPNy62JtN79t5SYSqs4KC4rY-m_toOZ67KeT00gGja-289Q5nlQj-mhzvHmWGe6aAKPUl7WeG22W04mnFY3xuF_aP0LlsXEavFO-54NIg/s320/IMG_0693+%25281000x474%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Before heat shrinking</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJWCZpGpLcJveyFHflhnOrickafRSNzhmkhQCe_P2HjB5gtPl3wB5GaW-neXtfW2Ta60smOEOMfRl-HboEVlk_Qwa4Tjd8wsG8gG91QkX1wwispUgBRxK46bF1tOyNt5pqRv-KqbgRWg/s1600/IMG_0689+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJWCZpGpLcJveyFHflhnOrickafRSNzhmkhQCe_P2HjB5gtPl3wB5GaW-neXtfW2Ta60smOEOMfRl-HboEVlk_Qwa4Tjd8wsG8gG91QkX1wwispUgBRxK46bF1tOyNt5pqRv-KqbgRWg/s320/IMG_0689+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
After heat shrinking.....magic!</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfUrXztMUhZAFW2mPyKtbnst-ctce5dkHlZbUujskK4B7h_B-Br1cAdyAVqHHjr2szXgBAaslB22xRJfvafBa7akPxN_ExVJ7d1I5c8UyibqfnDTVR74RRi9aYMEC_9CYkHUna9q28fg/s1600/IMG_0690+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfUrXztMUhZAFW2mPyKtbnst-ctce5dkHlZbUujskK4B7h_B-Br1cAdyAVqHHjr2szXgBAaslB22xRJfvafBa7akPxN_ExVJ7d1I5c8UyibqfnDTVR74RRi9aYMEC_9CYkHUna9q28fg/s320/IMG_0690+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
One note on final heat shrinking.....</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I consistently had the film "stick" to the strut tubing causing a series of puckers in the middle of each bay. I tried adding more ribs to decrease the distance between the bays with no noticeable effect. The only thing I was able to do to reduce this problem frequency and severity was to apply double stick tape onto the strut surface between bays and then dust the tape with talcum powder just prior to applying the film. Although this didn't completely eliminate the problem, it was significantly better and I felt well worth the extra step.</div>
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<b><br /></b>
<b>THE ALIGNMENT "WRENCH"</b><br />
Once the fairing was completed it
became clear that the router template I made to produce all the ribs
had just the right size hole on it to thread the ribs onto the strut
without breaking them and produced enough friction that the fairing
can be rotated but will easily stay in position once I align it. I
made an alignment “wrench” to do this.<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtUyGt_qdciCB0hRzl1SpN9oHGspQ23jMFHQVxX016IQ1LNk8qylGT6R-wu4XnwL8kevQK4YKa-9HI9v8BcShyphenhyphengu4guw8GoYv0rLuaeFNRTVZYkCTqTiIFOnYE-rS1fLKYjXOH0B2R0w/s1600/IMG_0686+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtUyGt_qdciCB0hRzl1SpN9oHGspQ23jMFHQVxX016IQ1LNk8qylGT6R-wu4XnwL8kevQK4YKa-9HI9v8BcShyphenhyphengu4guw8GoYv0rLuaeFNRTVZYkCTqTiIFOnYE-rS1fLKYjXOH0B2R0w/s320/IMG_0686+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxQsfz7XIxuIwZ14WV4UKZ5d_p72nHNlSKRPycQZD9ZrowlJ3wPUZYMs0qU__6rHL9OW-W4r4q3e5quXOh0D0XIILatb3McpDF6uBfguqBe3obgS5CL7hIZ9XfJyURy7cktRorEGK8FA/s1600/IMG_0681+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxQsfz7XIxuIwZ14WV4UKZ5d_p72nHNlSKRPycQZD9ZrowlJ3wPUZYMs0qU__6rHL9OW-W4r4q3e5quXOh0D0XIILatb3McpDF6uBfguqBe3obgS5CL7hIZ9XfJyURy7cktRorEGK8FA/s320/IMG_0681+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjavSir-4jMtoQmaaJHulMHUZMuDcgZ8XUm_zJN-zlbeUzoY238xjY8ZA6awB1K_3FCCHAtTOsNul2_7P2OWok9Xexfour8z-P6pdQvk-eOuzuwCGJpgSN_kMGAjV17QPB5tAZQh4O_FA/s1600/IMG_0687+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjavSir-4jMtoQmaaJHulMHUZMuDcgZ8XUm_zJN-zlbeUzoY238xjY8ZA6awB1K_3FCCHAtTOsNul2_7P2OWok9Xexfour8z-P6pdQvk-eOuzuwCGJpgSN_kMGAjV17QPB5tAZQh4O_FA/s320/IMG_0687+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
It took some trial and error to figure
out how much clearance I needed on each end of the fairing to clear
the cable swages. The main problem is how the plans had you rig it.
All of the cables are double swaged (for no clear reason) and the
main swage nearest the bracket was pulled so tight (there's a drawing
in the plans on this) so as to ride right up onto the bracket plate
making it very hard for it to rotate and also putting the second
swage a couple inches or more out onto the cable causing interference
with the fairings I'm trying to install. I had to provide nearly 4
inches of clear strut on the middle positions both leading and
trailing edge to keep those fairings from being ripped up on fold
down. Even with the extra clearance I fold both middle negative
wires to the other side of the bracket on tear down to avoid contact
with the fragile fairing. As it is I fabricated a foam block about 4
inches thick for the root end of the leading and trailing edge at the
lower wing panel bracket and glued velcro on the aluminum gusset and
the block to hold it in place while folding the panels down. These
blocks keep the wings from collapsing completely thus avoiding
smashing the inboard fairings against the ribs. I still have some
deformation but it's acceptable. This way I can leave the fairings
in flying alignment in the collapsed transport mode without having to
worry about having them move out of position by the wing ribs.</div>
<br />
<b>THE DIAGONAL STRUT TRANSPORT CASES</b><br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Next, I made two foam cases for each
set of diagonal struts to protect their fairings during transport
since it is so easy to tear the monofilm covering which is easy to
repair but a nusance I prefer to avoid.<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvkAp6v5mSUU_GGt8LyPwkBBsSeqAAY_QklPkuAmO6Opbh_sxM-ny4F7jESnJ-1FwsDYYwtwcsUJwhjgQDTnr9vEdAAB5N_1XXr_0rlVh9Rq1rLHViSHQh6KDsbhe1Lg6WnJdB1QkO4g/s1600/IMG_0676+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvkAp6v5mSUU_GGt8LyPwkBBsSeqAAY_QklPkuAmO6Opbh_sxM-ny4F7jESnJ-1FwsDYYwtwcsUJwhjgQDTnr9vEdAAB5N_1XXr_0rlVh9Rq1rLHViSHQh6KDsbhe1Lg6WnJdB1QkO4g/s320/IMG_0676+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjhlr8NyB984VyyZdUb8eQqUK-NN7y_OXNgrDzhX2UIwc4x2mByp3xdYRjECGfq7TfbRoJ0avNQiTa5TBsxa2pNuG6vjOliHVEKRhZtu-6wWB-Jke7Tv-G-2NFgCUKEE87yDrlsHwsKQ/s1600/IMG_0678+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjhlr8NyB984VyyZdUb8eQqUK-NN7y_OXNgrDzhX2UIwc4x2mByp3xdYRjECGfq7TfbRoJ0avNQiTa5TBsxa2pNuG6vjOliHVEKRhZtu-6wWB-Jke7Tv-G-2NFgCUKEE87yDrlsHwsKQ/s320/IMG_0678+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Here are a few photos of the fairings installed in Darrell's glider which I am using to train on. Notice the two rear root struts are not faired. As mentioned above this is necessary in order to enter the cage and handle the glider while on the ground.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsrKlvqEInenqLZ7f65TBOilaz0C-FglnTsnd8RMc36rHoB128fQeOYzFt9Ap4RU97QdSzoK-y5Hy5NVrqdA6_4AAmGZFWr8Mr7QSU1yfLNRjXoVdHr-oKUK5XnLZRNysPspUL3y33XA/s1600/IMG_0654+%25281280x956%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="956" data-original-width="1280" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsrKlvqEInenqLZ7f65TBOilaz0C-FglnTsnd8RMc36rHoB128fQeOYzFt9Ap4RU97QdSzoK-y5Hy5NVrqdA6_4AAmGZFWr8Mr7QSU1yfLNRjXoVdHr-oKUK5XnLZRNysPspUL3y33XA/s320/IMG_0654+%25281280x956%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicJ6DEfKV5_H_39Y-nAZABKvb65ltASmHdzg79E2KZOZprpvqULyP9EvVht2u1k6Zsw5ILwGMpIB6v06MwL78sB8TCHizevgGTmkWkt8q19bBMBrsWE-u74TwHSU1UnAzFmrAnB-VXRA/s1600/IMG_0655+%25281280x956%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="956" data-original-width="1280" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicJ6DEfKV5_H_39Y-nAZABKvb65ltASmHdzg79E2KZOZprpvqULyP9EvVht2u1k6Zsw5ILwGMpIB6v06MwL78sB8TCHizevgGTmkWkt8q19bBMBrsWE-u74TwHSU1UnAzFmrAnB-VXRA/s320/IMG_0655+%25281280x956%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIsN98sdyJZKYjLN_BS2-IyRfC3tIDI_tY8W2j0Xkunr9RTOItfXWjYC3ZtKMHtzjFj0H7dKGeLKLD73K6hvrktPghTpJQoEXlcKg0kkgW_xyk_6C-jIGB75GGaRuCsZqcAvZEx6EqDw/s1600/IMG_0656+%25281280x956%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="956" data-original-width="1280" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIsN98sdyJZKYjLN_BS2-IyRfC3tIDI_tY8W2j0Xkunr9RTOItfXWjYC3ZtKMHtzjFj0H7dKGeLKLD73K6hvrktPghTpJQoEXlcKg0kkgW_xyk_6C-jIGB75GGaRuCsZqcAvZEx6EqDw/s320/IMG_0656+%25281280x956%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b>SOME FINAL NOTES ON HOW THE FAIRING WORKED OUT</b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I found right away that leaving both the root diagonals and rear root struts unfaired was best in the learning phase. After one is accomplished in handling the glider in a variety of launch conditions, then adding fairing to the diagonal should not present a real problem. <i>Since you cannot grip the fairings (way to fragile) I can't really handle the glider without having access to the rear root struts to get into the center cage area and then lift the glider to attach the harness lifter shoulder straps I made. I therefore left these rear root struts unfaired.</i> The fairings are amazingly durable. I've crashed them, flown with the root diagonals faired and gone through enough set-ups and take-downs to convince me they will hold up fine under normal flying. I do feel the diagonal storage cases were worth the effort to make since they are so exposed to damage when not in the airframe. I had to provide extra clearance on several of the strut ends to avoid damage during fold down and also at each quick disconnect position where you need extra space for your hand to get the negative wires attached.</div>
</div>
</div>
jcoyierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14560463891091725092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6214318667395871924.post-87569807545244251492015-07-25T01:02:00.003-07:002019-10-23T21:39:45.791-07:00 #17 Rigging and Final Assembly<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">This post will be the last one for this project. It was intended to cover the repair of an Easy Riser damaged in a training flight. Subsequent modifications to the Easy Riser is being covered in a seperate blog titled "Re-Thinking The Easy Riser" and can be found at</span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><a href="http://www.easyriser3.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">www.easyriser3.blogspot.com</a></span><br />
<span style="color: black;"><u><br /></u></span>
<span style="color: black;"><b><u>RIGGING & FINAL ASSEMBLY</u></b></span><br />
<span style="color: black;">Ready for rigging now I've moved the right wing
panels onto the frame I had bolted to the floor when I completed the
pre-rigging from sheet #3. </span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisPFT22H2LqgWAC4IMlQPJegYNXht6K6uh4n0nRxJxuQuMoCXHXvapAF0_49Oa3uBox7ErwjII5Cou4PFbxCWCeH7CTp9DTlRSU2fM1wgCjEC5IJhyphenhyphenJUvSpieR3PQ_FC_b1eDK8uokEQ/s1600/IMG_0418+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisPFT22H2LqgWAC4IMlQPJegYNXht6K6uh4n0nRxJxuQuMoCXHXvapAF0_49Oa3uBox7ErwjII5Cou4PFbxCWCeH7CTp9DTlRSU2fM1wgCjEC5IJhyphenhyphenJUvSpieR3PQ_FC_b1eDK8uokEQ/s320/IMG_0418+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">As I put the struts in place, I recalled the
problems I had noticed when learning to fly. I took great pains to
patch all the tears and holes in the glider I inherited only to have
the leading edge root strut bracket rivnut punch a hole right through the
nice patch I had put over the previous hole. Here is a photo of that
bracket “after” I drilled out the rivets, flipped it and
re-installed the pop rivets.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEismB1KQ9RzaV7_Ol2pbjMAZvhxgjV-mIw6yuV8GNIFLJt_8iqtNbMELlIFB_VEdeRlu2Q9rW8Bu42vkSmkngtYpS-nNwWQ5h-5NEb6VLGfPonieDZM07BHn9w_-har2m6RUmmcubB9OA/s1600/IMG_0410+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEismB1KQ9RzaV7_Ol2pbjMAZvhxgjV-mIw6yuV8GNIFLJt_8iqtNbMELlIFB_VEdeRlu2Q9rW8Bu42vkSmkngtYpS-nNwWQ5h-5NEb6VLGfPonieDZM07BHn9w_-har2m6RUmmcubB9OA/s320/IMG_0410+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">It turns out that there is plenty of clearance
now on both sides of this bracket and I get no contact with either
the fabric or the gusset with the bracket in this orientation. The
strut fit is not changed. If you don't do this, expect to see a
nasty hole punched through the fabric by the rivnut end as shown below on Darrel's upper wing panel trailing edge which I had just patched
prior to realizing what was causing it.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs7vOXU47tgJNWmkbsX8Zi1pcNb6BR0_imQp4Y2fF9PpMWoHTbimf7tgmRCF7u7ewYrADIjTji72Hx97BOI4SGsgH90vwY91wM53_Zolzfu5jgfF-Wjam5vd7yqktfP-KV9e4xIQgpww/s1600/IMG_0411+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs7vOXU47tgJNWmkbsX8Zi1pcNb6BR0_imQp4Y2fF9PpMWoHTbimf7tgmRCF7u7ewYrADIjTji72Hx97BOI4SGsgH90vwY91wM53_Zolzfu5jgfF-Wjam5vd7yqktfP-KV9e4xIQgpww/s320/IMG_0411+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I found it far easier to do the tail swage
first, fit the cable loop over the bracket bushing, snug up the main
swage and then compress it. The plan sheet says to do the main swage
first which I tried at first and right away switched to doing the
tail first. Another thing I'd do different would be to thread on
shrink tubing PRIOR to all swaging. When I got to the end and saw
where the cable ends contact the fabric I found it necessary to tape
over all the swaged cable ends. In the folded storage/transit
position there was a fair amount of abrasion happening not to mention
getting holes poked in my finger tips from the cable wire sticking out
of the secondary swage during set-up & tear down.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnNXM0Sk_laxT0nk8sRbHK5qSnR76zIfByEgV3c2zUAvhaNW9HsDxY7poIj2bOhsOLFvIQoysEblN-FuGIjgfUuXmSUaBtThif22qcmMgX9wiaiPPkn0WjZHGwzcQv5ApMQpYufGrMWw/s1600/IMG_0422+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnNXM0Sk_laxT0nk8sRbHK5qSnR76zIfByEgV3c2zUAvhaNW9HsDxY7poIj2bOhsOLFvIQoysEblN-FuGIjgfUuXmSUaBtThif22qcmMgX9wiaiPPkn0WjZHGwzcQv5ApMQpYufGrMWw/s320/IMG_0422+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">In this shot I am setting the final tension on
this flying wire using two vise grips held with my left hand while
tightening the wire clamp with my right hand. Otherwise I'd have
needed to find someone to help. This worked fine.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZODmoZoKLhIlA6beffyD2tnLpguz8OFOd331CEc5634qH7iUaP9GKhUMdf6ofxDZRLGK17IXd47YFiKGHfNGs-3QPeGq4YXL0Kcmo2eoK7t7kxV7pFhmhZINYWybcrkJn3TdIjXiDtw/s1600/IMG_0428+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZODmoZoKLhIlA6beffyD2tnLpguz8OFOd331CEc5634qH7iUaP9GKhUMdf6ofxDZRLGK17IXd47YFiKGHfNGs-3QPeGq4YXL0Kcmo2eoK7t7kxV7pFhmhZINYWybcrkJn3TdIjXiDtw/s320/IMG_0428+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I made multiple trials to get the tension on
all the cables just right and it took a fair amount of time to do a
decent job of getting them all “just right”. My swage tool (I
finally had to buy one) was a short handled Nicopress model 32 VC-VG
which does both 3/32 and 1/16 swages. It required quite a bit of
muscle for the 3/32 swages so I ended up cutting a pair of extension
“handles” from 1 ½ inch PVC pipe. The other critical tool I was
lucky enough to borrow from one of the EAA members was a Felco cable
shears. This made all the cable cuts a piece of cake producing nice,
clean ends.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMttoTcT5SKqvHmBJt5oSLXyp1sVnKXYbsmI3NZDYYrJU6eitngHFoP4rFZZfb2brUEjjXNhGmuOFiaglVn-RleIaaLXaRg-RKl9QTRfzQJr5XyR8vqY1CZT17qmtOY0pyjoxc49qwlA/s1600/IMG_0419+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMttoTcT5SKqvHmBJt5oSLXyp1sVnKXYbsmI3NZDYYrJU6eitngHFoP4rFZZfb2brUEjjXNhGmuOFiaglVn-RleIaaLXaRg-RKl9QTRfzQJr5XyR8vqY1CZT17qmtOY0pyjoxc49qwlA/s320/IMG_0419+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA5yeVcrFg5z0TFRbsfwoCA2EqxxZ91dyehb6-gGZv2aumUQR-VChQaswie6YUVYNJ-vnUtVwBlyvIrhsfeQ45jqj1Ar_H0WhC3S2dMcEB8T1bahnHi3I-zPYvqVckAmU7COuPgtr_iQ/s1600/IMG_0429+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA5yeVcrFg5z0TFRbsfwoCA2EqxxZ91dyehb6-gGZv2aumUQR-VChQaswie6YUVYNJ-vnUtVwBlyvIrhsfeQ45jqj1Ar_H0WhC3S2dMcEB8T1bahnHi3I-zPYvqVckAmU7COuPgtr_iQ/s320/IMG_0429+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">No photos of my trials locating the control
cable inside the tip of the lower wing panel. Located a hole based
on how Darrel's cable was deforming the fabric and hot knifed it
free-hand. Turned out fairly crappy. Should have taped a nice
circle template and cut to that instead. Since this was a re-build,
the bushing was already swaged onto the cable end so I had to make
the hole big enough to fit the entire thing through the fabric.
Rather than do an actual fabric patch (would require me to do a spot
re-paint) I just used adhesive-backed sailboat Dacron patch tape
which worked OK.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Next I rigged the rudder return spring exactly
like I re-configured Darrel's where I removed the bungee approach
specified in the UFM plans (a poor solution I felt) and installed a
nutsert (that's what the guy at True Value Hardware called it).</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwh9LQcKA1gSk_lvkOWxOSK9Qqb__p-cdTA8yF0BQC2eoOkM0qZ8IKgcJTeQtAEYiWGKteLut98zl9_PMG7u93zIORLIRWfpxEqZiU9M3S1W-NQEZifARfqxvqIMLUpTi-kkaeH8fKNQ/s1600/IMG_0443+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwh9LQcKA1gSk_lvkOWxOSK9Qqb__p-cdTA8yF0BQC2eoOkM0qZ8IKgcJTeQtAEYiWGKteLut98zl9_PMG7u93zIORLIRWfpxEqZiU9M3S1W-NQEZifARfqxvqIMLUpTi-kkaeH8fKNQ/s320/IMG_0443+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
The nutsert can be seen above laying on the wing to the right of the hole it will be installed into.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL51IKz26OPPaHiomz5G5qoByViq3ienYZa3_xcjvs8L7V9TU4wqrrKRpVjzrAsy6wg2PyE_4zBSUpD6XLIFF8zTRWI3qbM6thCsrwl-LDs66rONeWDmCIENbpwxnmDRBADZ3nrnTI_A/s1600/IMG_0444+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL51IKz26OPPaHiomz5G5qoByViq3ienYZa3_xcjvs8L7V9TU4wqrrKRpVjzrAsy6wg2PyE_4zBSUpD6XLIFF8zTRWI3qbM6thCsrwl-LDs66rONeWDmCIENbpwxnmDRBADZ3nrnTI_A/s320/IMG_0444+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<div style="text-align: center;">
This shows the nutsert fully installed. It is nearly flush with the tip tube surface.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
I picked out a spring from the hardware store spring selection and attached it to the wing tip using two nylon washers and a small bolt. I also picked out a steel pin, drilled it to
accept a safety pin and used this as a quick connect to attach the
rudder control cable during assembly. I replaced these soon afterward with a stainless steel spring (sourced on-line through Grainger) and aluminum binding post pin (commonly available at hardware stores).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjCVnqoPYi-aUK1jpn-WW1fkj7iU9KGBGKKy6382D_dG428Z5a5Gfz2S1pZYguS1J8Amy6j5jv7ZWunKrNiEKBP4uB6M4qdLeZNStcpsI1DBOAN5kzIY9nlJw7Gx2sGuTZjjL_aL0l9w/s1600/IMG_0442+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjCVnqoPYi-aUK1jpn-WW1fkj7iU9KGBGKKy6382D_dG428Z5a5Gfz2S1pZYguS1J8Amy6j5jv7ZWunKrNiEKBP4uB6M4qdLeZNStcpsI1DBOAN5kzIY9nlJw7Gx2sGuTZjjL_aL0l9w/s320/IMG_0442+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPSaZbDj5L_UvvUvn4-oUZYyuk6ySujuH1F2HQQkqcxNWKL-1CS1xl-l5VInq4yMV_Uj1vXR0z4HIdcK659snXv9aTdJPXv50shJqwmweuTyM_GBdb_gcedqFSBSNro8gbcyPXINsefQ/s1600/IMG_0445+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPSaZbDj5L_UvvUvn4-oUZYyuk6ySujuH1F2HQQkqcxNWKL-1CS1xl-l5VInq4yMV_Uj1vXR0z4HIdcK659snXv9aTdJPXv50shJqwmweuTyM_GBdb_gcedqFSBSNro8gbcyPXINsefQ/s320/IMG_0445+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">The next step was to rig the control cable
which involved wrapping it around the twist grips per the plan so
that the rudders come back to neutral when released.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh35FByqD8ZAA3nnQwam2MeToEE5AEsLvl7KH6YkyJp6EsG3RXWJ9JSBNKkqfbr8xCRCJvQ8TJieOBofCyH-QORz-_rnBYQ-Y-nR4Mv8aLSavTN9vpscrob1zZWD2tccC2bAoobAlGCgg/s1600/IMG_0446+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh35FByqD8ZAA3nnQwam2MeToEE5AEsLvl7KH6YkyJp6EsG3RXWJ9JSBNKkqfbr8xCRCJvQ8TJieOBofCyH-QORz-_rnBYQ-Y-nR4Mv8aLSavTN9vpscrob1zZWD2tccC2bAoobAlGCgg/s320/IMG_0446+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimZyZdejO7VvCZqCpg6GTnH7gmgq2T8B57fWbv3tGvY18iXsj3NMsJ7YXJJ8d4FyQZ-Afua6ngYHr0MgOaUiqv1Net6EZtUz2zocQUfjFku-akZRtQcmrU9KlZ_ufTyzbxsAeb7IKX2A/s1600/IMG_0449+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimZyZdejO7VvCZqCpg6GTnH7gmgq2T8B57fWbv3tGvY18iXsj3NMsJ7YXJJ8d4FyQZ-Afua6ngYHr0MgOaUiqv1Net6EZtUz2zocQUfjFku-akZRtQcmrU9KlZ_ufTyzbxsAeb7IKX2A/s320/IMG_0449+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I really liked the grip material Darrel had on
his glider which was cloth handle bar tape for bicycles. I had a
hard time getting anything close to long enough. The best I did was
less than 10 ft so that's what I used. The underwrap was just
electrical friction tape followed by the cable winding then covered
by the bike tape and terminated with vinyl electrical tape on both
ends.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi42V_CSrblYcRTFfL2NWPOwmHnW1XF6qYufR2V1qBAleTBP1KVMuTa67d6tMwnx0980hF9Lsg8JDwzV7Po-ZKReFp0r0LGxcAkm9bICz2AKAuQrsR3ljQ6bLyjn2jDYUl_n6RLmwGztw/s1600/IMG_0452+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi42V_CSrblYcRTFfL2NWPOwmHnW1XF6qYufR2V1qBAleTBP1KVMuTa67d6tMwnx0980hF9Lsg8JDwzV7Po-ZKReFp0r0LGxcAkm9bICz2AKAuQrsR3ljQ6bLyjn2jDYUl_n6RLmwGztw/s320/IMG_0452+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Now I am nearly done. I got worried about the
paint sticking to itself in the folded storage and transit position
so I decided to wax every surface except the bottom of the lower
panels using the Poly Fiber recommendation of a non-silicon based
Carnuba wax which took me a good part of a day to do but I'm glad I did
as you will hear about in a minute. So here's the completed glider
ready to pack up and take it's second flight (recall the first one
ended in disaster over 30 years ago...hence this project).</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsTJnSWwUdL-O-MAIQP3LV9cvkgwf0ze2QJL3cfZOO8FOwuSFJZqkmRUhenGZtv0me0Oj5zSO-C_Cb2kpsduxkH_Ov2i_KQcJDldAJMGQEfLyskrI3RFEA2vKQMyaFXBUIVjGJ1wZtpg/s1600/IMG_0457+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsTJnSWwUdL-O-MAIQP3LV9cvkgwf0ze2QJL3cfZOO8FOwuSFJZqkmRUhenGZtv0me0Oj5zSO-C_Cb2kpsduxkH_Ov2i_KQcJDldAJMGQEfLyskrI3RFEA2vKQMyaFXBUIVjGJ1wZtpg/s320/IMG_0457+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Here I am at the local test flight area the
next day on the Oregon coast (Cape Kiwanda) in perfect
conditions....low tide, dune to myself with a 9mph breeze right up
the hill.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimuGhLjbg5-QiQzNFXedH3YIfjxlxHdn5fSZxFg1RqnWn96apUNke3xh5CZiFqtAH0-NB4O2SkAtS6RJkUjdNJYxjbiRAsjoopxpy-5YblqQb1jNH5S3sUX_l5ZqYUD5vNb-mWNYSOlw/s1600/IMG_0462+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimuGhLjbg5-QiQzNFXedH3YIfjxlxHdn5fSZxFg1RqnWn96apUNke3xh5CZiFqtAH0-NB4O2SkAtS6RJkUjdNJYxjbiRAsjoopxpy-5YblqQb1jNH5S3sUX_l5ZqYUD5vNb-mWNYSOlw/s320/IMG_0462+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Although you cannot tell from this photo, the glider is sitting on a tarp I staked down in the sand so that the glider never touched the sand. I just could not bring myself to allow that after putting all this effort into the build.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I weighed the finished glider just to have an
idea how much over weight I was and it came out at 66 lbs which is
about 16 lbs over. I can feel the difference just carrying the
individual wing assemblies and knew I was going to have my hands full
getting this thing up the dune. I was right, I made it up to about
2/3 of the way to the very top and just decided I'd be so wasted if I
went any further that I'd be too exhausted to safely launch it. I
was determined to not even allow it to touch the sand that when I got
as far as I was going I basically took off in what felt like 10-11mph
breeze. Launched fine, flew fine, rudder response was fine and the
landing was easy. I could not even visualize making another climb up
the dune so I packed it up and went home with a smile on my face.
This makes 19 launches in an Easy Riser for me to date. I have not yet learned to reliably get my feet up onto the leading edge to assume the proper flying pilot position. This is a critical skill in order to be in the air for any length of time and certainly at any significant altitude. </span> If you are interested
in my experience learning to fly, please visit my other blog
dedicated to the learning aspect of the Easy Riser at</div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<a href="http://easyriser2.blogspot.com/">easyriser2.blogspot.com</a><br />
<br />
I hope this helps anyone out there in building an Easy Riser as that was my original intent. Refinement of the rigging, designing a parachute pack mount, re-design of the internal rib layout are some of the things to be covered in a follow-on blog which you can find here:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://easyriser3.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">easyriser3.blogspot.com</a><br />
<br />
<br /></div>
</div>
jcoyierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14560463891091725092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6214318667395871924.post-50674456754886542462015-05-13T19:38:00.000-07:002017-09-10T11:55:45.877-07:00 #16 Rudder Covering + More Masking & Painting<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Since no one offered use of their paint booth
last October, I was forced to wait until spring. So, here we are,
April 2015 and already plenty of days warm enough to paint,
however.....I ran into trouble last fall. I shot the rudders with
Polybrush right over the old dope finish and then Insignia white
color base coat and proceeded to mask the accent stripes. After
making a masking error requiring tape removal, I found the base coat
peeled off with the tape right down to the old dope finish. No point
in going further. Ripped off all the covering on both rudders and
set about prep'ing the frames for recovering. This pretty much shot
the idea of completing the painting last fall. I found that the left
rudder had actually sustained some damage once I had the covering
removed so I fixed that and beefed up the aluminum ribs which are
definitely the weak link in the frame structure. Here's a shot of
the rudder frame leading edge rib before.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr6w6FyKe3kmjiBIVRUOBnlExLl4T3bnPHGBhFE6k_CzMwNFE-ZoBZhLmidh_pZ2bZ21PQxTEbwawJyWvPREgekUd8ZHfMbLSIsN4uzilGUVOjmpGz-5qM9iIsx-oLKEMBtarNHW7WbA/s1600/IMG_0278+(747x1000).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr6w6FyKe3kmjiBIVRUOBnlExLl4T3bnPHGBhFE6k_CzMwNFE-ZoBZhLmidh_pZ2bZ21PQxTEbwawJyWvPREgekUd8ZHfMbLSIsN4uzilGUVOjmpGz-5qM9iIsx-oLKEMBtarNHW7WbA/s320/IMG_0278+(747x1000).jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I278</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I cut out a piece of ½ inch foam from the
damaged wing rib to fit inside the aluminum rudder rib. I glued it
in place using Gorilla glue which is supposed to work well on this
type of foam. The stiffening effect on the rib was amazing. If I
build another ER, I'd use this on all the aluminum ribs in the
rudders which would also allow one to rib stitch rather than rely on
the dicey fabric to aluminum bond using fabric cement (without the
foam insert, the rib would just collapse as you tightened the stitch
knot).</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_vKsPUhn3vgYD9_OzfsggJ-pNAnNlSHG1yODXGa3SR7cotH51HbDzsWBkgI-p6ucPe94vF_OzePVQDZN53i1bd1Rp9dDohFwU55I27tGwQ-Gf1IjNtSm34WG1aDvrz24ktotqLhUa2g/s1600/IMG_0280+(747x1000).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_vKsPUhn3vgYD9_OzfsggJ-pNAnNlSHG1yODXGa3SR7cotH51HbDzsWBkgI-p6ucPe94vF_OzePVQDZN53i1bd1Rp9dDohFwU55I27tGwQ-Gf1IjNtSm34WG1aDvrz24ktotqLhUa2g/s320/IMG_0280+(747x1000).jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I280</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I recalled covering these rudders back when I
first built this kit that they were very difficult to do without many
wrinkles so both these rudders were ugly anyway. I decided to try a
different method this time around and built a quick frame out of 1X2
fir and attached a piece of fabric to it using an office stapler.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I cleaned up the aluminum frame, coated it with
Polytak fabric cement and then place the wooden frame over the
rudder structure.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqzA3XD0xbwU9vqs_nFJT5xHLQJVse8zpXhVZdCXfwURpukCL1cpebIboIu2UrXVoczezHCiFIDReltXgPc66MQDyrwpDF0R5ScumBFUUeEM7Dzi-KXtnNTu9DiZXXlf0kA_DVWgNfnA/s1600/DSC00013+(1000x750).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqzA3XD0xbwU9vqs_nFJT5xHLQJVse8zpXhVZdCXfwURpukCL1cpebIboIu2UrXVoczezHCiFIDReltXgPc66MQDyrwpDF0R5ScumBFUUeEM7Dzi-KXtnNTu9DiZXXlf0kA_DVWgNfnA/s320/DSC00013+(1000x750).jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I13</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">A small slit for the rivnut to poke through
allowed the fabric to lay down nicely onto the rudder structure. I
then ran a very thin line of 50/50 cement/MEK around the entire
perimeter of the rudder, rubbed it in and let it dry (std process).</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjASRH0ryW8NK3CdWEhn28TM13NE2Twv0Etdy0YNbsx5_bOVGUWLx3LfPbnUepfqewO9G6hAU9SbpwqT88AMCkWy5jyNMtb8fTeh10qcJ69FGIeWtLACxcLhxPA57kjq8No4yLMY5GDbA/s1600/DSC00014+(1000x750).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjASRH0ryW8NK3CdWEhn28TM13NE2Twv0Etdy0YNbsx5_bOVGUWLx3LfPbnUepfqewO9G6hAU9SbpwqT88AMCkWy5jyNMtb8fTeh10qcJ69FGIeWtLACxcLhxPA57kjq8No4yLMY5GDbA/s320/DSC00014+(1000x750).jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I14</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I then simply cut around the perimeter leaving
enough fabric to do the wrap onto the aluminum structure and got an
almost wrinkle-free main area. The hard part was doing the snips and
cuts to get the fabric fitted around the ends, brackets and horn.
Repeated the frame process for the other side and ended up with no
wrinkles after doing the final shrinking at about 300 F. Wetted out
the glue on the ribs to attach fabric then applied Poly-Brush (coat
#1 brushed on, coat #2 & #3 sprayed on). Same pin hole bubble
issue. Just have to re-brush back over what you've just applied as
you go to knock down the bubbles before the P-Brush tacks up. What
you don't get will be ironed out at 225F prior to spraying.</span><br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Here are the rudders after completing all the
gluing, smoothing with the iron and general detailing finishing with
the first brush-on coat of Poly-Brush.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS2_6BmqSA0l25MCsjkZsPMaTfsqDuA_mjSwC1twOpb2oOfo9eJyAP0kXTiR-6r3kKPw1e0WWLmytIEjj98d6VwOx-PgKH-5cjeH8s8Jv3lRXxK9exI8UbFmCIA2nVPuTcjxT6zD6cUw/s1600/IMG_0311+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS2_6BmqSA0l25MCsjkZsPMaTfsqDuA_mjSwC1twOpb2oOfo9eJyAP0kXTiR-6r3kKPw1e0WWLmytIEjj98d6VwOx-PgKH-5cjeH8s8Jv3lRXxK9exI8UbFmCIA2nVPuTcjxT6zD6cUw/s320/IMG_0311+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Here they are after the final sprayed on coat
of Poly-Brush......</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCGhmvNjmi6TvFqfxzJGnNe2Ttz1JPR9oeMsnYwVEy0S7uQVUNbcq_hQUsps9E5XhYl6sZu6XfE5hj4QheFbecR1KYAxwfxha4aen0_r6TxXCq_O1oqjDFRT8HnvX6uachX8qr1Sar4w/s1600/IMG_0312+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCGhmvNjmi6TvFqfxzJGnNe2Ttz1JPR9oeMsnYwVEy0S7uQVUNbcq_hQUsps9E5XhYl6sZu6XfE5hj4QheFbecR1KYAxwfxha4aen0_r6TxXCq_O1oqjDFRT8HnvX6uachX8qr1Sar4w/s320/IMG_0312+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">OK, on to painting. I've poly-brushed the
rudders and shot the base coat of white. Two coats was sufficient.
One thing I've found in getting an even coat aside from being very
smooth and even on your gun passes (you need to always be aware of
how far the nozzle is from the surface, what angle the spray fan is
relative to your gun pass direction and how fast you move the gun
along the surface). It's a tough job and was hard for me to do. I
would finish a panel and then go back and look for uneveness. I
would then spot spray the light areas until the whole thing looked
relatively even. I tried to put on just enough color on the first
coat so that the second coat was the final one. In the photo below,
notice the different color masking paper on the leading edge at mid
span. That stuff is the paper you use when you paint a room in your
house which I suspected when I experienced bleed through. </span>I'm not sure if it's the paper because I went
to an auto paint supply shop and got their masking paper and had a
little better luck but still saw it bleed through a little. I think
the take away here is to DOUBLE LAYER THE MASKING PAPER OR USE A WIDE
BORDER OF TAPE next to the paint line. Also helps if your technique
is good enough to allow very little paint overlap onto the masking
paper. As you can see in this photo, I don't do a very good job of keeping paint off the masking paper. I was fixing a screw up here where I forgot to take the accent stripes all the way to the root on the lower panels. I am leaving a gap at the root on the upper panels where I will strip the paint back and glue on a fabric closure with a zipper after I'm finished. Darrel did this on his and it works really slick.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc21Odbpa56cwHHhYvIIjmPKA7zE5RxxtUus6xca8DXDGa_no3WYkdRhnynaB-L29PcPdXqd4LPskiNM4OZlQ9pL3lPxa6SGUrhusvDC5-jpZ88ZL9luGl485e-0sk01529HHqDJSxqg/s1600/DSC00003+(750x1000).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgc21Odbpa56cwHHhYvIIjmPKA7zE5RxxtUus6xca8DXDGa_no3WYkdRhnynaB-L29PcPdXqd4LPskiNM4OZlQ9pL3lPxa6SGUrhusvDC5-jpZ88ZL9luGl485e-0sk01529HHqDJSxqg/s320/DSC00003+(750x1000).jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">In this next photo, I've removed a piece from
the other wing panel where I had used it right in the area I was
painting. You can see what happened.....bleed through! So go find
your local supplier for automotive painting and get your paper from
them but I'd still test it first before you commit to use it to mask
an entire wing....it took me a couple hours to finish one panel and
that was after I got the hang of it.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii7xPv0dew2jl8ZI3X4SDkoUC85DMmWfRIRd60gODJK_m4g1ITdPetgmIjvVSTV1mAYao5p_VepddIs0ydDgtH5_Kz4nn7blKPCalQCYMFFR-MbQOMEIUv1W1k_fxZ9Pk5p5LqExZFpA/s1600/IMG_0314+(747x1000).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii7xPv0dew2jl8ZI3X4SDkoUC85DMmWfRIRd60gODJK_m4g1ITdPetgmIjvVSTV1mAYao5p_VepddIs0ydDgtH5_Kz4nn7blKPCalQCYMFFR-MbQOMEIUv1W1k_fxZ9Pk5p5LqExZFpA/s320/IMG_0314+(747x1000).jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I used Reducer on a Q-tip in an attempt to
mellow it out a bit with limited success. I went over the area with
red but could not make it go away.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Here are some shots of the masking involved in
creating a simple design scheme similar to the lines on the glider
Brian Porter flew in the 1976 National meet.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsImBbBM4HI0fQgBYyNeYjTViBtu4KtlGcAIYRBD6iYwVEVqH8FRNm4Mq2XtADFuaNdR5BfVFPEING66y-fVk2wG4-e65XbBtSepzgIs5pN6YbC1J_Nk_drVa_TOirBQ6ZgA-76skEPQ/s1600/DSC00006+(1000x750).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsImBbBM4HI0fQgBYyNeYjTViBtu4KtlGcAIYRBD6iYwVEVqH8FRNm4Mq2XtADFuaNdR5BfVFPEING66y-fVk2wG4-e65XbBtSepzgIs5pN6YbC1J_Nk_drVa_TOirBQ6ZgA-76skEPQ/s320/DSC00006+(1000x750).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">The blue tape in that shot is vinyl tape used
in automotive trim masking. You can form it somewhat around curves.
I could not do a real tight curve successfully and ended up cutting
the curves for the rudders which were much smaller radii compared to
the wing panel curves.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYORoVJG_zh__BypTS7hkiDW8aNrY0CP52bYU-nO-Beluz4x43-XOZEy8ofBKbE8VioomiPUEU1OZ7qkSLyHpG_zsbjX4dl_clzJ9OLTLnsZ6VuyEx-4Nn-3p9gmQDA6EpK97gf6V-PQ/s1600/DSC00007+(1000x750).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYORoVJG_zh__BypTS7hkiDW8aNrY0CP52bYU-nO-Beluz4x43-XOZEy8ofBKbE8VioomiPUEU1OZ7qkSLyHpG_zsbjX4dl_clzJ9OLTLnsZ6VuyEx-4Nn-3p9gmQDA6EpK97gf6V-PQ/s320/DSC00007+(1000x750).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZNfrzzY5UP1R7we8jtHTGVMC56ZVnkmnmkhcK8UIcBzLpqKyDVQHOI0J4sxRhDy8pankZrkLf80Y0NlwvUoPzPY4bH_yN3CTYhkiPcYS3GyOWcMP4oi_7howZunipoIXIgwu0EQCpJQ/s1600/DSC00009+(750x1000).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZNfrzzY5UP1R7we8jtHTGVMC56ZVnkmnmkhcK8UIcBzLpqKyDVQHOI0J4sxRhDy8pankZrkLf80Y0NlwvUoPzPY4bH_yN3CTYhkiPcYS3GyOWcMP4oi_7howZunipoIXIgwu0EQCpJQ/s320/DSC00009+(750x1000).jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Back in the converted RV shed with the
drop-down lights for painting.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-2W1w1Sp6DH4Nj9XJfoEv_eFVmXJkzjPQAFdXC94pknS0ECOjMsFP43FJvc5ckSfxIjnYAOt9T2TAkSkpd3EJkd4mDzUDooh5YGjDKEPTRhajjgnFw149SyrilqRmLVAIMKtBn_-KbQ/s1600/DSC00004+(1000x750).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-2W1w1Sp6DH4Nj9XJfoEv_eFVmXJkzjPQAFdXC94pknS0ECOjMsFP43FJvc5ckSfxIjnYAOt9T2TAkSkpd3EJkd4mDzUDooh5YGjDKEPTRhajjgnFw149SyrilqRmLVAIMKtBn_-KbQ/s320/DSC00004+(1000x750).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Masking the rudders.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAaZ_Ch_yspBz494gxcY4WHz8T-PW0yUlleRiHSfxXj3hgdJ7j0Di3gXtwO2myocat6WcuyPtMCvZkkn6mwMyHGYkLnYExhMBe-h3P3hlRDbYlZE4EqeNnrD79-2-KBmAKO54zDtGjdA/s1600/DSC00001+(750x1000).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAaZ_Ch_yspBz494gxcY4WHz8T-PW0yUlleRiHSfxXj3hgdJ7j0Di3gXtwO2myocat6WcuyPtMCvZkkn6mwMyHGYkLnYExhMBe-h3P3hlRDbYlZE4EqeNnrD79-2-KBmAKO54zDtGjdA/s320/DSC00001+(750x1000).jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">The finished rudders ready for painting.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCZl7FIHKybOYQAUTjGFHYLc_dWYaQ0VCNq1_AuDWvk6LyqjmUihEReYOm2IKoM9COFmFAczX7Sb_Zdff0XbOq5RVlQMpVClcFAaIgRVwjfqCwA41tJRTesqOueWEn59PNbBUMGw8R_w/s1600/DSC00004+(1000x750)%2B(3).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCZl7FIHKybOYQAUTjGFHYLc_dWYaQ0VCNq1_AuDWvk6LyqjmUihEReYOm2IKoM9COFmFAczX7Sb_Zdff0XbOq5RVlQMpVClcFAaIgRVwjfqCwA41tJRTesqOueWEn59PNbBUMGw8R_w/s320/DSC00004+(1000x750)%2B(3).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">This next photo shows my attempt at getting an
even first coat of red on the rudders. I always shoot the edges
first since this is where the risk of generating drips is greatest.
Making a couple light passes worked best followed with filling in the
rest of the surface.</span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9dIHAUwSeuTkA05pin8bk-BXp_CiOY7M7XWrcDpq4fwVcp3-htLLtCQWtvwAy-IEyHjFx0tfD-bF_FwcHgkz9wjllXKYHwZSZwWLmidbN0VJDlHmNP71bm64C0DHD9_fIloG1tP1xdw/s1600/DSC00007+(1000x750)%2B(3).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9dIHAUwSeuTkA05pin8bk-BXp_CiOY7M7XWrcDpq4fwVcp3-htLLtCQWtvwAy-IEyHjFx0tfD-bF_FwcHgkz9wjllXKYHwZSZwWLmidbN0VJDlHmNP71bm64C0DHD9_fIloG1tP1xdw/s320/DSC00007+(1000x750)%2B(3).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Here is a shot of the final accent stripe of
gold as I am removing the masking tape around the curve. Gives you
an idea of the cutting and fitting I had to do in order to obtain a
nice tight curve around the bend.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1yf5e8UB5TEV_mSsVTdZZZdwpVS02cbf51GiHFW95mjnJxX2YHg5Rieoo1pvpn43i3LdNweVjFqmDYPwwMOhccJ0Bi0IZFDOUd-ogwQNw4OeE9z6gvw8vbZw0QkCg-yfX2Ij0BjXCvw/s1600/IMG_0397+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1yf5e8UB5TEV_mSsVTdZZZdwpVS02cbf51GiHFW95mjnJxX2YHg5Rieoo1pvpn43i3LdNweVjFqmDYPwwMOhccJ0Bi0IZFDOUd-ogwQNw4OeE9z6gvw8vbZw0QkCg-yfX2Ij0BjXCvw/s320/IMG_0397+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">One thing I did which really helped get the
last little bit of paint out of my cans was to use a metal shears and
cut through the lip gutter then pour out the last bit of paint and
rinse with a little Reducer.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPaFfHb54LUlhaf9MtNl27RT2JsWRdC9WRdUrRFNwI9PwfIgoIAKYRLhJR1cHJJsu-KRAqiAmcDnFSqoQfZWi7XNDPcAjtDTLtWAiQBXzQoNJ1kGlrHVg7mxcfTTN_i8BZT1DcywMa9Q/s1600/IMG_0392+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPaFfHb54LUlhaf9MtNl27RT2JsWRdC9WRdUrRFNwI9PwfIgoIAKYRLhJR1cHJJsu-KRAqiAmcDnFSqoQfZWi7XNDPcAjtDTLtWAiQBXzQoNJ1kGlrHVg7mxcfTTN_i8BZT1DcywMa9Q/s320/IMG_0392+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZvEr4r9rLN-J4j8u0vfRDg5fd2-IizY54Wd1S7TFA5ZUrltJhdkC8X1TEa2BqFZFNYA_voWXIplmmyS7Jniu_AAwReYvZOiDDF5hnukUkOPKt6vfoh9fiJzu6k_cyiFNdRmVuxscVvw/s1600/IMG_0393+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZvEr4r9rLN-J4j8u0vfRDg5fd2-IizY54Wd1S7TFA5ZUrltJhdkC8X1TEa2BqFZFNYA_voWXIplmmyS7Jniu_AAwReYvZOiDDF5hnukUkOPKt6vfoh9fiJzu6k_cyiFNdRmVuxscVvw/s320/IMG_0393+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;">I got a couple small
areas where the color pulled off the Poly-Brush surface with the
masking tape. Likely some contaminate I neglected to get off prior
to painting. I'll need to touch it up with a fine tip</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO2ut8q6ViIaUFHrknB2HOc0-da_rPubappVijlFD4QfItFDsW0SrcizpkvzZNh3O4VrHXuIwf6FhGV3CWt6NkKIrLc0B0X4-HxoyteovdaUUkIeLXqRS_YJPzTPQsdBL8nMZTcFDdyA/s1600/IMG_0389+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO2ut8q6ViIaUFHrknB2HOc0-da_rPubappVijlFD4QfItFDsW0SrcizpkvzZNh3O4VrHXuIwf6FhGV3CWt6NkKIrLc0B0X4-HxoyteovdaUUkIeLXqRS_YJPzTPQsdBL8nMZTcFDdyA/s320/IMG_0389+%25281000x747%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: red;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
brush later.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Here are more shots of the rudder masking for
both the red and gold accent stripes. Lots of time masking and
re-masking to do even simple paint schemes like I'm attempting here.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI97kVCcMJT9EUT4q-Vf9zwXznak_odERlQy9Rla44Z-4yxSMR3mU5nglVOHjFPXz4wY3a8PtnsH1JoLh0an-rV0Z3c9yJ2s6n0rchyphenhyphenGMCpTn5IhGaTOBL5mmPpWLachGWjCEY3JCotA/s1600/IMG_0390+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI97kVCcMJT9EUT4q-Vf9zwXznak_odERlQy9Rla44Z-4yxSMR3mU5nglVOHjFPXz4wY3a8PtnsH1JoLh0an-rV0Z3c9yJ2s6n0rchyphenhyphenGMCpTn5IhGaTOBL5mmPpWLachGWjCEY3JCotA/s320/IMG_0390+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFoNiE8yTmRM2MmR3MbOUJTKdgX-IRxu90opZW-h1bju2IvXgDBqFX8-kFrnG8gDk2rCkn_m4dqKvyKsPYjq9YqVD1ghikUet27FRF0tVYIErI6eMqi2HBzaoFDHFimk9Wln0jNvVoZQ/s1600/IMG_0391+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFoNiE8yTmRM2MmR3MbOUJTKdgX-IRxu90opZW-h1bju2IvXgDBqFX8-kFrnG8gDk2rCkn_m4dqKvyKsPYjq9YqVD1ghikUet27FRF0tVYIErI6eMqi2HBzaoFDHFimk9Wln0jNvVoZQ/s320/IMG_0391+%2528747x1000%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
As a side note, it was 58F and raining when I shot these. I saw no problem with the paint nor did I note any difference in spraying under these cool conditions.</div>
</div>
jcoyierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14560463891091725092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6214318667395871924.post-74903599830420198592014-10-24T22:06:00.000-07:002017-09-10T11:55:19.381-07:00 #15 Rib Stitching, Fabric Sealing, Masking & Painting<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: #ff3366;"><i><b>Post #15</b></i></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Finally got going on the build again but it
will be tight this fall getting enough warm weather to paint before
winter sets in. Rib stitching was the task I had been
procrastinating over all summer and when I started my learning
sessions on the inherited Easy, it really killed the re-build
project. I used the modified Seine knot. I followed a good YouTube
video from Cormanairpark that got me finally going on this task.
Here's the link;</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<a href="http://youtu.be/q3nnDg-6CBs?list=PL16A893B7B5305EA6"><span style="color: black;">Cormanairpark
Modified Seine knot</span></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I abritrarily chose 3 inches as my spacing
partly because I had to keep the fabric tension so low that I was
concerned about airfoil deformation during flight. I don't recall
what the plans called for but I believe it was more than that. The
following shot shows the first panel I did after marking off the 3”
lines using a chalk line.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaQnTvUhbD0QqMauQYQcHB2HQT2z9id1KfUV3wNjKVjKaysDJf6QqnVAJaFvc10MXAVdfuOyRwTwBTfNib2B4FqrqSgYekM9u1Q79td92sDcqcEIdZsQlpvy-2nIvTrTqbSmvDJPwgbw/s1600/DSC00197+(750x1000).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaQnTvUhbD0QqMauQYQcHB2HQT2z9id1KfUV3wNjKVjKaysDJf6QqnVAJaFvc10MXAVdfuOyRwTwBTfNib2B4FqrqSgYekM9u1Q79td92sDcqcEIdZsQlpvy-2nIvTrTqbSmvDJPwgbw/s1600/DSC00197+(750x1000).jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"> This really made a mess and I marked the rest
using a piece of 1 inch wide aluminum strip I got from the motorized
parts kit. It was flexible and easy to hold down onto each rib and
just mark each position with a pencil. I spent some time figuring
out how I could mark out the bottom of each panel so that the
stitching cord was close to perpendicular with the top rib cap strip.
That way I got a nice, even 3-inch spacing on the top surface and
let the bottom spacing vary to maintain the 90 degree angle with the
cap strip. Just like the plans show, prop up the wing panel you are
going to stitch on a couple of saw horses and go to it. I followed
the Poly Fiber (or Stits) covering manual process pretty much to the
letter on this. The second step (after marking out the spacing
lines) was to apply the adhesive-backed 1/2 inch fabric reinforcing tape which you see here.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiss6k_3EnJETWxU3YfCpihAtNf3WNyxvBZFCKFzo-9lqw38aejEF4LxpZeF7x5tGLbqfgdBXcZfGrQ12q-PRu6ArDgJ9gHO_Km0Wu8LTM4R0-XaewSHqSYVRkcku0A2nIRo1Wv30YdCQ/s1600/DSC00198+(750x1000).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiss6k_3EnJETWxU3YfCpihAtNf3WNyxvBZFCKFzo-9lqw38aejEF4LxpZeF7x5tGLbqfgdBXcZfGrQ12q-PRu6ArDgJ9gHO_Km0Wu8LTM4R0-XaewSHqSYVRkcku0A2nIRo1Wv30YdCQ/s1600/DSC00198+(750x1000).jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">The next thing was to take the needle and poke
holes through the fabric on both sides of the rib right on the mark
up spacing both top and bottom. Once that was done, I propped up the
panel onto the saw horses and started the stitching process. I was
able to do all the rib stitching with no help and it wasn't all that
difficult, just tedious. The hard part was getting the knot good and
tight before going to the next knot. I untied many knots that I
wasn't satisfied were tight enough to suit me and this really slowed
things down. A couple times I broke the cord halfway through the rib
and chose to splice it using a water knot (this can be found in most
rock climbing books) rather than start the rib over again. I found
it fairly easy to tear the fabric with the cord when I wasn't being
careful during the knot tightening part. I had to be very careful of
the direction I was pulling during knot tensioning. </span>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLZfhmBvud989M_BoqbbVJ_U8cod0_7xlQwwRj4qcMZpccZZjzl5oVwtJRqeQSHE9azeGz2fvs-2dNXjDgy2LkPUgnQfK4NMSg5wSEhLnkk5AoV_-bzeUPRcV_BqyiiVeHP1QYUSFcrw/s1600/DSC00199+(750x1000).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLZfhmBvud989M_BoqbbVJ_U8cod0_7xlQwwRj4qcMZpccZZjzl5oVwtJRqeQSHE9azeGz2fvs-2dNXjDgy2LkPUgnQfK4NMSg5wSEhLnkk5AoV_-bzeUPRcV_BqyiiVeHP1QYUSFcrw/s1600/DSC00199+(750x1000).jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Once I finished all the panels I wiped down
each stitch using the Poly Fiber R65-75 Reducer solvent. Depending
on the batch, the wax can be very thick on the flat stitching cord
and it ends up all balled up right on the knot. You won't get it all
off and it didn't mess up my paint job as I found out later so don't
sweat this too much, just give it a wipe down. The next shot shows
me using 3 parts Poly Brush to 1 part R65-75 Reducer to saturate the
sticky back cloth tape applied over the rib cap strips. The Poly
Fiber manual says it normally takes 4 coats to “fill” the tape
with Poly Brush. I thought this was excessive and then found out
that 4 coats was just about right.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxhYM6iABCGvfNKkkvUgSoBtZ-Y2-1LRe9wAr5pbq-zex4yUIAK3UfyiiqdX_EpkR_likiA9CCdAIrljUG5TAJk_47V-OfGm3Z8F0ZK9X2uGeROxVjJPm1fW-6e7n70pbRgkWe02HkXA/s1600/DSC00201+(1000x750).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxhYM6iABCGvfNKkkvUgSoBtZ-Y2-1LRe9wAr5pbq-zex4yUIAK3UfyiiqdX_EpkR_likiA9CCdAIrljUG5TAJk_47V-OfGm3Z8F0ZK9X2uGeROxVjJPm1fW-6e7n70pbRgkWe02HkXA/s1600/DSC00201+(1000x750).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAKjtjHJW1zocN4peBy1o4GBAO4Ag0rV6vUGz-VYWfDzSP0PoCRUYIt7LcARxJnV8YH8QYJPf0nGtmymDVbUDkHInZl5vp1MowAbxMla_w4tvHykJZ1kfWSWolt1lx4TUdUmtuFrd5GQ/s1600/DSC00202+(1000x750).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAKjtjHJW1zocN4peBy1o4GBAO4Ag0rV6vUGz-VYWfDzSP0PoCRUYIt7LcARxJnV8YH8QYJPf0nGtmymDVbUDkHInZl5vp1MowAbxMla_w4tvHykJZ1kfWSWolt1lx4TUdUmtuFrd5GQ/s1600/DSC00202+(1000x750).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Now you have to start thinking about how you
want your taping to come out. I ran a 1 ½ inch tape over the
stitched ribs but stopped short at both ends which made it tough to
cover with a leading edge tape or trailing edge tape. You decide
here what you want to do. I used an 1 ½ inch wide brush in applying
the Poly Brush pre-coat doing half the rib.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih2yaKDKQBHG4iOll2m5n8NOu_AqT-VgLgBD0BYdzEp79DM0lxtMWxxLqAfC4vMOUUg7mftgCogO_Kh6rFhu1ZAWTKh52PbPI6XMkPY0vrgVJ8qw3CIYGtpj3ZLHtJ_6gwgZsKXWdWEA/s1600/DSC00203+(1000x750).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih2yaKDKQBHG4iOll2m5n8NOu_AqT-VgLgBD0BYdzEp79DM0lxtMWxxLqAfC4vMOUUg7mftgCogO_Kh6rFhu1ZAWTKh52PbPI6XMkPY0vrgVJ8qw3CIYGtpj3ZLHtJ_6gwgZsKXWdWEA/s1600/DSC00203+(1000x750).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Now the tape goes down.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhliCxlihb-p-JrAtzTRCeBZzrorjJaGlTRaXVpbdXgWaWsKQO2fZHDAycDIeTMqb2oA1JVuSKQ6I9cLlTq4fkhjERlMS8qcYaCbcFZJnImZHtrK2Gp82TOSVi8pJBym4x3TOITNmitBA/s1600/DSC00204+(1000x750).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhliCxlihb-p-JrAtzTRCeBZzrorjJaGlTRaXVpbdXgWaWsKQO2fZHDAycDIeTMqb2oA1JVuSKQ6I9cLlTq4fkhjERlMS8qcYaCbcFZJnImZHtrK2Gp82TOSVi8pJBym4x3TOITNmitBA/s1600/DSC00204+(1000x750).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Working fast here....you need it to completely
wet out the cover tape.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinsXgVtswEi2Uqo9nfp4eOZI7hc0ICKqYJ8EBdHLLgjPAoVMKl1yRYqFwDDhK5kS9rojOq506EWEH_Muzw7AcG4ewhdUw425BjFgS1ZToKZyZYdW5dC7yx7oGpVBW_tcChPhWqVOtTfA/s1600/DSC00205+(1000x750).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinsXgVtswEi2Uqo9nfp4eOZI7hc0ICKqYJ8EBdHLLgjPAoVMKl1yRYqFwDDhK5kS9rojOq506EWEH_Muzw7AcG4ewhdUw425BjFgS1ZToKZyZYdW5dC7yx7oGpVBW_tcChPhWqVOtTfA/s1600/DSC00205+(1000x750).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">This shot shows me after I top coated the first
half and completely wet through the first half of the tape. I'm now
doing the second half pre-coat.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmLXbBHQRVFAhNmPUd8VM4q6nFHwylVzG5C0BPi7nBDveiNfeNyzRL1H_Ipr9fL6PfqTrOaCmgX8Zwg-k80oGPaIi5M-46Hr7DmsGPwIqbSX0YintSMzI8aT48MPThN-RNFqMqKNV01g/s1600/DSC00206+(1000x750).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmLXbBHQRVFAhNmPUd8VM4q6nFHwylVzG5C0BPi7nBDveiNfeNyzRL1H_Ipr9fL6PfqTrOaCmgX8Zwg-k80oGPaIi5M-46Hr7DmsGPwIqbSX0YintSMzI8aT48MPThN-RNFqMqKNV01g/s1600/DSC00206+(1000x750).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Finishing this rib up by going over the tape
and pressing it into the wet Poly Brush.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYiADniie1Aj3RLCyAE95kGHj22dnyyWvlcH4vdAfhUnsDbeXyCi0K5fv8MSvsiPb7RsQ6XLJ34wNpb2qUosf9NY3yvf1t44C_nryF6S_uotGUjOK-AP4CW1ne-aPmbnZsnaQR1dJp9g/s1600/DSC00207+(1000x750).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYiADniie1Aj3RLCyAE95kGHj22dnyyWvlcH4vdAfhUnsDbeXyCi0K5fv8MSvsiPb7RsQ6XLJ34wNpb2qUosf9NY3yvf1t44C_nryF6S_uotGUjOK-AP4CW1ne-aPmbnZsnaQR1dJp9g/s1600/DSC00207+(1000x750).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I didn't hesitate to add a little more Poly
Brush as I was doing this. The idea is to get the tape wetted
completely through without adding any more Poly Brush than you have
to in order to accomplish this.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Next, I turned my RV shed into a paint booth.
Here's the results of the first spray coat of Poly Brush.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCDbhokrNATRZ1j3aWjTY7x8KrZBxJUDnD6zU8DxtYP0tQMOa6XiQ3Z2b5C25gcy6baOGitVQNiELLeOoXjIcg234Iz7YVTv6TQqtj75fF5jAvcbQGeTR8QxEaoo_gDptr3jK6jJTsIw/s1600/DSC00208+(750x1000).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCDbhokrNATRZ1j3aWjTY7x8KrZBxJUDnD6zU8DxtYP0tQMOa6XiQ3Z2b5C25gcy6baOGitVQNiELLeOoXjIcg234Iz7YVTv6TQqtj75fF5jAvcbQGeTR8QxEaoo_gDptr3jK6jJTsIw/s1600/DSC00208+(750x1000).jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I borrowed an HVLP turbine from the EAA club
nearby but bought my own gun. I could have borrowed the gun also and actually did for the first panel of Poly Brush. I then reverted to the gun I'd bought which I felt I had more adjustment with. I just followed the Poly Fiber manual
on this and it was fairly easy except for the leading and trailing
edges. It was really touchy keeping these areas from forming drip
lines. When this happened, I had a 2 inch brush handy in a jar of
R65-75 Reducer and I quickly brushed any drips away. This worked
well as long as I was very conservative on the amount of reducer on
the brush. I ended up with some contamination streaked areas in
spots that would not take the Poly Brush. After freaking out, I
decided to wipe those areas clean right down to the cloth and then
re-brush and then re-spray. I got the areas to “take” but you
could easily see the brush marks left even after the final color
coats. I believe this must have been something on the rag I used to
wipe down the panels since they had been brush coated nearly a year
ago. Once I got the panels all coated with a couple of passes of
Poly Brush and was convinced they were sealed, I went on to apply the
Poly Tone color coat. I was surprised at how much I had to apply to
cover the pink Poly Brush (I used a white color coat). It turned out
I really couldn't see what I was doing in this shed so I added 8 four
foot dual tube flourescent shop lights and hung them with about 3
feet of clearance over the panels. What a difference! I ended up
doing a second session and getting the panels I didn't quite get
covered the first time. The keys here were;</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"> a) spend most of the time doing a good job
masking (the paint will go EVERYWHERE)</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"> b) use multiple light passes on the leading
and trailing edges to avoid runs</span></div>
<ol start="100" type="i">
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">you can't have too much light.</span></div>
</li>
</ol>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I didn't get any photos of the white base coat
but one of the issues was getting even coverage. Since the idea here
is to put as little paint on as is needed to just cover the panel and
no more. This stuff addes weight but you'd be amazed at how hard it
is to get enough on to completely cover the pink Poly Brush. I tried
both chord-wise passes with the gun and span-wise passes and really
had no preference in results although it was much less tiring to go
span-wise. I found that aiming the center of the nozzle right at the
line of the last pass gave me the right amount of overlap to avoid
serious banding. It just takes practice.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Once the base coat was on I started masking the
next day for the accent color stripes. Here's where you'd better be
real careful about COMPLETELY and I mean COMPLETELY mask off where
you don't want to have paint going where you don't intend it to.
I've already shot the red accent and this is the gold going down
last.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh24RUBiDjoKmWpa4nhOmTI7Z0KH1D5uxQCgOMdm5XDOyFXIR-vZQFFiHf7CJQkBVBuxFJVO-vDUiUcN2CdlnoJdOZBggKEY7I7OP0Yuy6WfQLX9bgJxs20kDw2AWeFOiCpQty2m7Gh-g/s1600/DSC00001+(1000x750).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh24RUBiDjoKmWpa4nhOmTI7Z0KH1D5uxQCgOMdm5XDOyFXIR-vZQFFiHf7CJQkBVBuxFJVO-vDUiUcN2CdlnoJdOZBggKEY7I7OP0Yuy6WfQLX9bgJxs20kDw2AWeFOiCpQty2m7Gh-g/s1600/DSC00001+(1000x750).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Remove the masking and we have.......</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFgiGvxaWJoyAIFXtJAI3L1Spp0LIWeXWGumcvE0ntZCgjppUEncSIKB06oUQVDBUf8bfMHb0j1AapBO5FO6NJniVpRDx4MNjkW81UibRLnK_K6pv6ZpoW1hIQblETg6BoJ8U3C5HITw/s1600/DSC00002+(1000x750).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFgiGvxaWJoyAIFXtJAI3L1Spp0LIWeXWGumcvE0ntZCgjppUEncSIKB06oUQVDBUf8bfMHb0j1AapBO5FO6NJniVpRDx4MNjkW81UibRLnK_K6pv6ZpoW1hIQblETg6BoJ8U3C5HITw/s1600/DSC00002+(1000x750).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Looks good to me!</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"> I didn't find it necessary to mask the bottom
of the panel off entirely when I applied the red stripe on the top
surface and when I flipped the panel to mask the bottom side, found a
nice, ugly mist of red way out on the main, perfectly painted white
base coat surface. Great!, re-mask the entire bottom of the panel
and re-set up for a second session of white base coat, etc.,
etc......shot a day on this little error.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXOjAKEBqGmcc4L7STFCS6Y3wfTAm5vYlLqcoX_T3NQVnw6Tl4mLtEOqW-WHS09Wi5lTON-EnY2WQPXr0zDtoCYkDhTJXGA18E_SUCaV44rksIHZp-IKjM0B5dHQLsfJJYVc1Zuv8YZQ/s1600/DSC00003+(750x1000).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXOjAKEBqGmcc4L7STFCS6Y3wfTAm5vYlLqcoX_T3NQVnw6Tl4mLtEOqW-WHS09Wi5lTON-EnY2WQPXr0zDtoCYkDhTJXGA18E_SUCaV44rksIHZp-IKjM0B5dHQLsfJJYVc1Zuv8YZQ/s1600/DSC00003+(750x1000).jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Some thoughts;</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Spend the money and get the good masking tape.
I found that 3M Vinyl Tape 471+ works and will give you good, sharp
lines. With all the effort this takes, using this quality of tape on
all your actual lines will be worth the cost. Use that blue stuff
used for home painting walls , etc. on all the other areas where you
are not painting against it. I used the blue stuff (Blokit or Frog
tape) on my actual lines and got bleed through. If you were really
diligent about going over every inch of the line with adequate
pressure to get a 100% seal, you might get by. I was being careful
and got a significant amount of bleed anyway. Use a ¼ or ½ inch
vinyl tape on the line and then use the blue cheaper stuff to tape to
that.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Next I will shoot the bottom of the bottom two
panels. You can be darn sure I'll have the top surface COMPLETELY
masked off tight after what happened doing the top surface. If I had
this to do over again, I'd mask the entire wing off for red and paint
both sides since my plan was to do the same pattern on top and bottom
of each of the lower wing panels. This would have eliminated the
overspray issue I created and also been more efficient use of a spray
day. I just wasn't confident of the process or technique and didn't
want to risk the entire paint job without knowing it would work OK. </span>
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I've already found out through experience that
using standard 3M blue painters tape can still be easily removed
after two weeks. I did this in a heated space where I store the
wings which may have helped keep the tape pliable. This is really
important otherwise going on advice from the EAA guy, he'd have me
remove it within a couple hours after painting which would mean I'd
have to mask right before I paint and then get it off right away.
Two concerns he mentioned were having issues removing tape from a
painted surface and having the paint pull up along the edge but he
also had never tried to leave the tape on for any length of time. I
saw neither issue at two weeks. In fact, there was no hint of an
issue. I'm inclined to believe I could leave the masking job on the
wing for several weeks at least while waiting for a good day warm
enough to paint now that winter has settled in here. What that means
is that I can (and will) mask everything now and then paint when I
get a good day where the temps get above 55 F. Yesterday I painted
with a temp of 56 -57F and raining some with no issues. This shot
shows me finishing up masking for the underside of one of the bottom
wing panels. The top is all done.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZT1WozSDDEx37bOLCvFqRgjgH2j1MInXamPmhBVI-tAOlTMsN_Un7x871xiPCSdDqVhNPDjHKPqBW0oZywExL9nPml3Z-LTQ3yYMmwi6GmLX_3ZtPShue6YDwHK7bZmocieUN1D0wIQ/s1600/D4+(750x1000).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZT1WozSDDEx37bOLCvFqRgjgH2j1MInXamPmhBVI-tAOlTMsN_Un7x871xiPCSdDqVhNPDjHKPqBW0oZywExL9nPml3Z-LTQ3yYMmwi6GmLX_3ZtPShue6YDwHK7bZmocieUN1D0wIQ/s1600/D4+(750x1000).jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
Notice that the 1/4 inch tape line is the 3M vinyl stuff I mentioned which will define the boundary of the red field I will shoot next. I'll move the paper up to the 1/4 inch tape and then use the blue stuff to tape to it. Also notice that I'm not going to use the vinyl tape to mask off where the gold will go down after I finish the red. What I ran there was 1 1/2 inch painters masking tape. Since this is the bottom of the panel, I figured it wasn't worth running two lines of the vinyl since no one but pilots below me looking up will ever see this side.<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Still haven't decided on what I'm going to do
with the top wing panels. If I do the same pattern, it's gonna add
more weight but if I don't I think it's going to look cheezy.
Decisions, decisions...... It will be a miracle if I get enough weather to get this all painted without having to wait until next spring now. We're really settled in with rain and cold weather here in Oregon already. Anyone out there want to volunteer use of their heated paint booth?</span></div>
</div>
jcoyierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14560463891091725092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6214318667395871924.post-78736798212182450252014-07-13T14:48:00.001-07:002017-09-10T11:57:57.398-07:00 #14 Launch Road Car Top Carrier + Rivnut Install<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Issue #14</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Basically at a standstill with the wing
panels since last fall. I did attempt to correct the bubbles formed
during the PolyBrush first coat. I used a rag soaked with Reducer
and removed the PolyBrush in those areas. The bubbles were visibly
reduced but not eliminated. I will need to recoat these areas or
risk pinholes in the top color coat.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
I completed the first prototype car-top
carrier which is shown here, mounted on the cross members of my stock
Honda roof rack. I've tried it out and it works as planned as a
one-person process. I need to add a washout spacer so that all four
points of the bottom panel are supported after loading the wing
halves.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE85ubQFX1iHOGRzdXSpmM83cNTu5-iJTnfefkHrlsImueBW3eH18TA1iW_OboAQ10YScH5zBBa7LmOoYSNns9VvHxKpnbImtLHyNK1Y7pCawEtLS9I21jgWP0Rl4speoZsu4TlkMDpw/s1600/d154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE85ubQFX1iHOGRzdXSpmM83cNTu5-iJTnfefkHrlsImueBW3eH18TA1iW_OboAQ10YScH5zBBa7LmOoYSNns9VvHxKpnbImtLHyNK1Y7pCawEtLS9I21jgWP0Rl4speoZsu4TlkMDpw/s1600/d154.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Ready to load wing panels (and, yes, I need that step stool to do this)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipBqCYvDngYi7-XzYv612kKEXaaoUGTXLao9H1taMmYuIsSbhH1J5ntsOE4V70fHQK4mWvNkY4kPQqOmBqO4LKl_JtWf1mJ53zb3oRg-mA51BUEsSME5glDNci5i77r9hCI28Zo48RuQ/s1600/d155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipBqCYvDngYi7-XzYv612kKEXaaoUGTXLao9H1taMmYuIsSbhH1J5ntsOE4V70fHQK4mWvNkY4kPQqOmBqO4LKl_JtWf1mJ53zb3oRg-mA51BUEsSME5glDNci5i77r9hCI28Zo48RuQ/s1600/d155.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
First panel loaded (leading edge first
so that I can easily add a washout support block before closing the
rack).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2g0iN3VWJK8dPzij_7Pnxn3sfgUBLTS86SsA0O0IDgU2Q17kWQoAAkQzbNpgE8KodDDzNWp2aH7SPYJsXZIazEdrvgOKIhGkqFwOapORBMFlfEygI_NWzDanSZO4beyE88DrnkEmtPw/s1600/d156.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2g0iN3VWJK8dPzij_7Pnxn3sfgUBLTS86SsA0O0IDgU2Q17kWQoAAkQzbNpgE8KodDDzNWp2aH7SPYJsXZIazEdrvgOKIhGkqFwOapORBMFlfEygI_NWzDanSZO4beyE88DrnkEmtPw/s1600/d156.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
both wing sets loaded with the rack
ends closed and locked. I may re-think this and load that upper wing
trailing edge first to make a better windstream profile on the front
end although this is only intended to be moved no more than about 20
mph....I'll have to see what it will stand. Most of the sites I
would fly this at could be driven slow from the LZ to launch anyway
so it shouldn't be a problem.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
I did some hardware sourcing research
this winter and finally got the rivnuts that are central to the quick
setup design of the Easy Riser airframe. I aquired an airframe from
a damaged Easy that had been exposed to saltwater and outside storage
so the rivnuts were badly corroded. The stamped, stainless steel
brackets looked great so I decided to attempt to replace one to see
if I could do it.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC2fP8fOYBvmWhuJZGGn_WXVEYf5bcgFoN9djMcg4gETbTWRiePNOzCnKLScduKcokKHvlv8oKGWS860JngGO3h0NmPY-xngncFQ4bC5IfmZvoM8cB64DCVUUeVeAju1sZtsIHVBpd4w/s1600/D00002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC2fP8fOYBvmWhuJZGGn_WXVEYf5bcgFoN9djMcg4gETbTWRiePNOzCnKLScduKcokKHvlv8oKGWS860JngGO3h0NmPY-xngncFQ4bC5IfmZvoM8cB64DCVUUeVeAju1sZtsIHVBpd4w/s1600/D00002.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
I drilled out the old rivnut.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS3beR132Q9NBMUwPFgjvDyG8BHXREt-V7RDbdy-P7DBaSMXGIKancFCuW8NT62e69pzgVSiidCnv4i0tpXr0sROiLMO7yoZ-VPLlHys2zw5sL8sdBf0qJ6HJKSl4y-DntToL-oPiWgQ/s1600/D00003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS3beR132Q9NBMUwPFgjvDyG8BHXREt-V7RDbdy-P7DBaSMXGIKancFCuW8NT62e69pzgVSiidCnv4i0tpXr0sROiLMO7yoZ-VPLlHys2zw5sL8sdBf0qJ6HJKSl4y-DntToL-oPiWgQ/s1600/D00003.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Some of these brackets had key slots
stamped into the rivnut hole and others did not. This one did not
and I ended up filing a notch to accommodate the key on the new
rivnut (I ordered them all keyed since my only reference when I
ordered where the brackets in my kit which were all keyed). You can
see the key on this new rivnut prior to installation.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrlJGKPwy0mgz0ai0cdvfsjG8mrdOpb269mtfpVQvddqeJo25sN0UuKvolupV7la284O4Y1qiEzCsjroyf-LlIVVluv1TEguzStYzZag37dpAQM4_vDrVI0a42SJhU25Se77wxnaz7ag/s1600/D00006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrlJGKPwy0mgz0ai0cdvfsjG8mrdOpb269mtfpVQvddqeJo25sN0UuKvolupV7la284O4Y1qiEzCsjroyf-LlIVVluv1TEguzStYzZag37dpAQM4_vDrVI0a42SJhU25Se77wxnaz7ag/s1600/D00006.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
I will include a photo of the tool I
assembled from parts bought at a local hardware store to install the
rivnut when I find it again. It consisted of a collar with set
screw, a spacer and a bolt....simple and cheap.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Here are the two rivnut sizes used in
the Easy Riser. One is 0.5 inch and the other is .75 inch. I got
them from <b>e-aircraftsupply.com </b>(Jaco
aerospace Pasadena, CA). The manufacturer is Ramco Specialties,
Inc., Hudson, Ohio. The part code numbers the industry uses for
these things are:</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
NAS#
NAS1329C3K280, BFG# C10K-280, MS# MS27130-C29K</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
NAS#
NAS1329C3K130, BFG# C10K-130, MS# MS27130-C26K</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
The
K130 being the short one and the K280 the ¾ inch barrel. Please
note I DID NOT use the same material as the kits sold by UFM. I
decided to order stainless steel vs plain steel which did not stand
up well as you can see. I did not price the plain steel ones. The
cost on the order I placed was $2.00 each for the short ones and
$2.50 each for the long ones.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGMiwmFQzSXSDHdN7T_o4RM6KBYWp8bkLuxZI-pcujZNLc14nRhvAz7leod_J9hr60ecdueOMz2WpWX3SHHnawYH2meguDIB-eEpUhbeZ-rQYo2EyyfvMHHOUY_cMRxzzGoYd7AKaB5w/s1600/D00005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGMiwmFQzSXSDHdN7T_o4RM6KBYWp8bkLuxZI-pcujZNLc14nRhvAz7leod_J9hr60ecdueOMz2WpWX3SHHnawYH2meguDIB-eEpUhbeZ-rQYo2EyyfvMHHOUY_cMRxzzGoYd7AKaB5w/s1600/D00005.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Here's
a shot of the finished, newly installed stainless steel rivnut using the homemade
tool described above.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz-GGOyigJfkY-yVUJv3FacQN7PjK7_a4i-ZGQ-TXnuQy_5OMJahIgv8Hh_73Kflq2fOkESqasxGnvItOAYHFn1HOK0FCh3jRoarMmIkKKBfj0eldLJa4wEa2W84SjxjEcuLyi803ztA/s1600/DSC00007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz-GGOyigJfkY-yVUJv3FacQN7PjK7_a4i-ZGQ-TXnuQy_5OMJahIgv8Hh_73Kflq2fOkESqasxGnvItOAYHFn1HOK0FCh3jRoarMmIkKKBfj0eldLJa4wEa2W84SjxjEcuLyi803ztA/s1600/DSC00007.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
</div>
jcoyierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14560463891091725092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6214318667395871924.post-37141142888126177592013-12-02T22:42:00.000-08:002017-09-10T12:07:26.053-07:00 #13 Covering The Wings<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
November 19, 2013<br />
<br />
I was not going to let this happen but here I am. Nearly two months since a new post. The longer I put this off the more difficult it becomes to keep the info organized and assembled into a coherent and accurate account. I want to emphasize that I am learning as I go and what I have done up to this point is to merely convey that which some times turns out to be a major blunder or innocent error on my part so beware in what you take away should you decide to repair or build an Easy Riser! I am using the Stits or now called Poly Fiber chemicals and process vs the Stewart system or the old tautening nitrate dope or Ceconite process.<br />
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Upper Left Wing Panel</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
The first swath of glue working from
the center both span wise and chord wise.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir2MNDJ-5rmAJ9mcoVmW__kTKZ_A8NWcXHZfb97HVkcLeeOYHmROXx_G-AVoboiEWeAtZH1JUkt0H6AryCYrGA3xDmh5FcK4g5mwsd8RI32ItPzqRxY_DnIs17JCLVIZmUVA12B61DPg/s1600/D1+(598x800).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir2MNDJ-5rmAJ9mcoVmW__kTKZ_A8NWcXHZfb97HVkcLeeOYHmROXx_G-AVoboiEWeAtZH1JUkt0H6AryCYrGA3xDmh5FcK4g5mwsd8RI32ItPzqRxY_DnIs17JCLVIZmUVA12B61DPg/s1600/D1+(598x800).jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div>
I later on decide not to glue down the rib cap strips until last (after shrinking). The root and tip tubes were glued down
first using a couple clamps to hold down the opposite end with 3-4
pounds tension. I will soon find out that there is enough shrink
available in this fabric to take out puckers and folds I was
concerned would not come out and this was accomplished at only 250 F
(actually, the Poly Fiber manual states 225F as the first pass
temperature to use). I will also find out that the fabric will stand
400 F as measured on the small iron with no noticeable problems so I
have plenty of margin to work with. In retrospect, it seems like the
best process would have been to have glued down the entire perimeter
of both the top and bottom blankets and iron the entire wing at a low
temp (225F). This should allow a nice, even tension of the entire
panel without having the ribs involved. After that is done, then the
ribs would be glued down and a final shrink done at the lowest you
need to use to just get the surface wrinkle-free (no more than 250
should be needed unless you did a really poor job of covering). With
the frame I'm working with, I still don't believe I can do much
better than about ¼ inch sag between the ribs (measured at the
height of the leading edge) mainly because I seem to be so limited on
the amount of span wise tension I can apply without putting a dog leg
in the frame.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Poly Brush brush-on first coat
complete. Notice the bottom panel is done first and left to dry
overnight and then the frame is flipped and the top is then finished
off so that I didn't have to rest the top panel surface coated with
Poly Brush onto the bench surface and risk having the P Brush stick
to the bench top.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB2CmxQWaIXSqiPmutVbTOoYa_TsztwNiO-Ppg2FHm_vRzaB2u9dgEnKRWYkj9LIXrnWwtpq7iRHuzqxHzcumI93uW-aEI-J_jqLaAxALMD7sDn8VZ-awfTkWeT8GyyAFyZEjiJSwVTQ/s1600/D2(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB2CmxQWaIXSqiPmutVbTOoYa_TsztwNiO-Ppg2FHm_vRzaB2u9dgEnKRWYkj9LIXrnWwtpq7iRHuzqxHzcumI93uW-aEI-J_jqLaAxALMD7sDn8VZ-awfTkWeT8GyyAFyZEjiJSwVTQ/s1600/D2(800x600).jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Notice the paper slit templates laying on the table.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Lr9clawFI7H_TpSAAmY4UACLseOEFw3ksIr-lD-wt1N1jAJUrvYruZn4GZ8lj3TVxFLLIXrilIns1vRWviEuQ9Lbil88PauEgx0_f-wawWtieY60s2jEjg0syIzQJlKuHNTLmlx-7g/s1600/D3(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Lr9clawFI7H_TpSAAmY4UACLseOEFw3ksIr-lD-wt1N1jAJUrvYruZn4GZ8lj3TVxFLLIXrilIns1vRWviEuQ9Lbil88PauEgx0_f-wawWtieY60s2jEjg0syIzQJlKuHNTLmlx-7g/s1600/D3(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Arrived with the empty trailer ready to
take this wing panel back to my shop and probably end up storing it
until I get painting weather next spring. I don't think the weather
is going to last long enough for me to finish two more wings so that
I would be ready to spray paint.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglp4FI9LFJ2PlxZSw1anNzAlSMJ-UYtWlfsOSNyMPyCltbDI9pfxovqhu2OKZc49_kz4PpXYZq3WOP_1qcf9bOUQ_Kh8SKUbDj7QRevH-1rQ_mJWdUgWvj8pUjeE4RtTpUlWt9GeVJfg/s1600/D4(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglp4FI9LFJ2PlxZSw1anNzAlSMJ-UYtWlfsOSNyMPyCltbDI9pfxovqhu2OKZc49_kz4PpXYZq3WOP_1qcf9bOUQ_Kh8SKUbDj7QRevH-1rQ_mJWdUgWvj8pUjeE4RtTpUlWt9GeVJfg/s1600/D4(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilelXj4TBQDUsKmDivMiN4039MQEEtFCRNgTQYYrc0piQ-ctqQFvARWerpFAl0oSlhQ6z9c6khOs-v7YCYwcQYaaj1ZbOU6ESOY58VfQLpXuIV77iU4zeDlvfK2MyNyooaOnywZkLi-w/s1600/D5(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilelXj4TBQDUsKmDivMiN4039MQEEtFCRNgTQYYrc0piQ-ctqQFvARWerpFAl0oSlhQ6z9c6khOs-v7YCYwcQYaaj1ZbOU6ESOY58VfQLpXuIV77iU4zeDlvfK2MyNyooaOnywZkLi-w/s1600/D5(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Right Upper Panel.</b></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: small;">First drew a glue line
onto both top and bottom fabric tangent points for both the TE and LE
directly onto the spars using the <b>finger guide technique or FGT</b>
<i>(rest your middle and ring finger on the spar as you move down the
spar while holding the pencil between your index finger and thumb)</i>.
This works really well and is fast to do. Applied full strength
glue between these two guide lines for both spars and bottom surface
rib caps. Cut the bottom blanket to length leaving about 3-4 inches
of extra at each end (never needed more than that) and squared up the
fabric on the frame. Pulled tension on the center section of the
chord and clamped it at the root and tip. Beginning in the center of
the span, glued a section of the rib caps working out to the root and
tip.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkGvIdd94NluRwdkhknZf4inWx0WlhGiRWd25pWJHQwCjKBQS_aTnuIIglxp3b6vucKKtF3yfLpjA1hIGD2vZik6Xuk3NWy9PGRdN8iZ6cbczdyI6KjhDGOdf9sCI8RQZwdE-V-BNh1w/s1600/DS7+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkGvIdd94NluRwdkhknZf4inWx0WlhGiRWd25pWJHQwCjKBQS_aTnuIIglxp3b6vucKKtF3yfLpjA1hIGD2vZik6Xuk3NWy9PGRdN8iZ6cbczdyI6KjhDGOdf9sCI8RQZwdE-V-BNh1w/s1600/DS7+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: small;">Again, I later decide this is not the best process. Better to glue down the cap strips after the shrinking step. </span>Since this was an upper
panel, I was using very light tension chord-wise tension for the top
blanket. Forgot the sequence I used on the left wing and clamped the
trailing edge root and tip with moderate span wise tension and burned
the bracket slots. LE first is the best order to do this (the
reverse of what I ended up doing on this panel). Used a paddle tip on my
soldering gun to burn both the TE mid and TE tip slots. Marked both
sets of slits while fabric was tensioned. I left it tensioned and
slipped a small piece of 4”X4”,¼ inch plate of plywood under the
fabric and used it as a backer plate to burn against.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaSXDHzVZueguF0moB3W5n6rSUldYDlbs8jScovj756_RJm3zt2M-N8DeXPFYGpoi6e7D4yFncwMOa99YdC3gRmXi9fiXeEexgw07XrLaYg8IWE0FPr6FxX7iuEHtsGkJ06Wr32bu8Lg/s1600/DS3+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaSXDHzVZueguF0moB3W5n6rSUldYDlbs8jScovj756_RJm3zt2M-N8DeXPFYGpoi6e7D4yFncwMOa99YdC3gRmXi9fiXeEexgw07XrLaYg8IWE0FPr6FxX7iuEHtsGkJ06Wr32bu8Lg/s1600/DS3+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: small;">I then glued the TE
starting at the middle bracket, working out to the tip and root ends
using a very light touch chord-wise to just get the fabric smooth and
no more. It is very easy to pull just a little bit more on each 2-4
inch tack which you just have to resist or you will end up with
puckers where the last tack strip stopped. Be checking as you work to make sure this isn't happening.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw1q6EW10C_KpQ5MjS83AOV4VhBSaNbcLJPHLH1YR8F6Shs1BWzWHX7EX4ldmKmdNqCghu6lBe9N72ygJlnqQIfft3YmZc3lYuUXfddmQIG-dGwMj_c5uUFHBnw_UOdSkjclNmeqBFFw/s1600/DS4+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw1q6EW10C_KpQ5MjS83AOV4VhBSaNbcLJPHLH1YR8F6Shs1BWzWHX7EX4ldmKmdNqCghu6lBe9N72ygJlnqQIfft3YmZc3lYuUXfddmQIG-dGwMj_c5uUFHBnw_UOdSkjclNmeqBFFw/s1600/DS4+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: small;">Next, I applied 3-4 lbs
span wise tension on the LE, marked the bracket slots at the “just
snug” chord-wise tension point and burned them. I proceeded to
glue down the LE using very little chord-wise tension (just enough to
pull the little pucker out right where the fabric hits the LE (fabric
tangent point). Next, I finished up the rib cap strips all the way
to the spars. Using my fingers here to hold the fabric down on the cap strip....best to use a couple magazines for this like the plans say. I did that later and it worked much better.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijSmRhlBGQKUpMBO3_Fj9frm3sv4PZwdP7AtaiJE1uwWCh5A7oBrVA3rANkMeBN_IpQc1XlD4iopc6lpN23rpRwjBGs1hmVpYQWxsA1SXDTpfkeUXvrMQhavuoEBRS2sAB8PpvvJcglw/s1600/DS6+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijSmRhlBGQKUpMBO3_Fj9frm3sv4PZwdP7AtaiJE1uwWCh5A7oBrVA3rANkMeBN_IpQc1XlD4iopc6lpN23rpRwjBGs1hmVpYQWxsA1SXDTpfkeUXvrMQhavuoEBRS2sAB8PpvvJcglw/s1600/DS6+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: small;">In tacking down the LE and
TE, I stopped about 4 inches away from the tip curve and the root rib
tube corner on both the spars and the rib tubes. I finished these
four corner areas last.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-size: small;">I used the small iron set
at about 350 and slowly worked the fabric around the tip curves and
root camber arch. This time it worked really well mainly because I
had not yet cut the excess fabric off and had something to pull on as
I used the iron to heat form around the curves. I used a pencil to
trace a fabric cut line onto the fabric right at the spar fabric
tangent point using the FGT. I had already traced the glue boundary
line onto the spar which I could see through the fabric as I draped
it around the spar. I traced the cut line just shy of the glue line
to make sure the glue held down the cut edge. Cut the extra fabric
off both the TE and LE to wrap onto the spar AFTER double checking
that I had finished heat forming the fabric around the tip curves and
both tip and root rib curves past the glue line. I did not allow
much more than what I needed to produce an inch and a quarter overlap
for the top blanket. It took a fair bit of time to brush on 50/50
glue/MEK mix and glue it down to the spar. If you go at this
carefully and only do a short section at a time (like about 4 inches)
you will be able to smooth out the fabric and get it to lay down nice
with no wrinkles or bubbles. This saved a lot of time later when I
used the small iron to go all around the perimeter smoothing out all
the air pockets, wrinkles and glue </span>topography for a good,
smooth fabric to fabric overlap joint. <span style="color: red;"><i>Noticed
that I did not say at what point I burned the LE bracket slits in the
#12 report which is a critical item. I will guess that I did it after
gluing a center swath of rib caps out to the root and tip. This
would give me some chord-wise constraint as I attempted to properly
locate the slits and maintain minimum chord-wise tension.</i></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><u>Top Blanket</u></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">This is a shot of the upper right
panel flipped and the top blanket being applied.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5CDi5b48d1K2cehaA881MYxT8jMifmFrEbTuP5webhyTwAluG9oNQCrjNGLiTxG1G3jE-Wp9PQImW13x0Ix5Td1ZofuJikSusAli_H3fUdATkNhJ9_9q0QptNgBGD97Bah95ueOmUIw/s1600/DS9+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5CDi5b48d1K2cehaA881MYxT8jMifmFrEbTuP5webhyTwAluG9oNQCrjNGLiTxG1G3jE-Wp9PQImW13x0Ix5Td1ZofuJikSusAli_H3fUdATkNhJ9_9q0QptNgBGD97Bah95ueOmUIw/s1600/DS9+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Tacking down the tip end.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizsNa7M8YcMwSN5HQBoI-CXcu7KCvpCzIzTdlDKkV6ib7lQHdlW4rGdo5cZWvgQWeKtmxKbdPR5f0GZyKzua1ZHk-f5JUgme1PJfyiepGPj1xRDDYJyyElJ6bmdlHlqcDsq-ZvwousDA/s1600/DS10+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizsNa7M8YcMwSN5HQBoI-CXcu7KCvpCzIzTdlDKkV6ib7lQHdlW4rGdo5cZWvgQWeKtmxKbdPR5f0GZyKzua1ZHk-f5JUgme1PJfyiepGPj1xRDDYJyyElJ6bmdlHlqcDsq-ZvwousDA/s1600/DS10+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">The entire root and tip tubes are
glued with moderate tension prior to starting on the spars (LE &
TE). This shot show the results of detailed snipping and cutting to
fit the fabric around the root rib tube LE spar joint.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcSbVUIWBfmighVdUeGWSxKK45VvJ-iOTnw89vmFqxk6AliVkbKtOkosQFZL4yazSRCG5iteLawQL6W5-DSdtZgeGxHkTPauYzlLK-T0OM_lvhgDD8dUiZxBWowuAMuL9PPGWslQFDPQ/s1600/DS11+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcSbVUIWBfmighVdUeGWSxKK45VvJ-iOTnw89vmFqxk6AliVkbKtOkosQFZL4yazSRCG5iteLawQL6W5-DSdtZgeGxHkTPauYzlLK-T0OM_lvhgDD8dUiZxBWowuAMuL9PPGWslQFDPQ/s1600/DS11+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">A shot of typical ripples visible
on the finished panel. These can easily be ironed out at around
225F.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXgpL-OM13_ebK3KL30Jd_FRD7BgpVCCIpW3BBt6NHAzcmbtTtw6EQH4-E7S1ENQXMGBPOUGl-glLZgkzkaIKvMhn6F6ig0_9IuZ2sSn0T433Ca0a67SW3IXuXYMSIJJnbj2NKXqt0ug/s1600/DS12+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXgpL-OM13_ebK3KL30Jd_FRD7BgpVCCIpW3BBt6NHAzcmbtTtw6EQH4-E7S1ENQXMGBPOUGl-glLZgkzkaIKvMhn6F6ig0_9IuZ2sSn0T433Ca0a67SW3IXuXYMSIJJnbj2NKXqt0ug/s1600/DS12+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Gluing the LE while propped up on
a post for easy access worked well.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6G2QD9ymBPrVQkBahLhouTElo5qxVdHdggcM_l6lWnF7ciBPz6uuefCHaYOlf9j4FlPbaN1RXyFiVBpWu9w2DfC2delmvVaKsaggQujUYIRNJLKC2PfqMHra5x1lYhEJ3GEHtZdxC-Q/s1600/DS13+(598x800).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6G2QD9ymBPrVQkBahLhouTElo5qxVdHdggcM_l6lWnF7ciBPz6uuefCHaYOlf9j4FlPbaN1RXyFiVBpWu9w2DfC2delmvVaKsaggQujUYIRNJLKC2PfqMHra5x1lYhEJ3GEHtZdxC-Q/s1600/DS13+(598x800).jpg" width="239" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">A look at the bottom blanket in
final form prior to sealing.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_3DY5s8_6DszQMgjtU3yAwBsH2sruiV3Xipqmkclo0tFkBnmM35HonvzqYbgey6476cV-2cXHpTQDN5s9JNqdpUA4W0wGO0rXZWziCXw63ARxSvkLI_QL__lIT2ekP2XUuj3lWF2EvA/s1600/DS14+(598x800).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_3DY5s8_6DszQMgjtU3yAwBsH2sruiV3Xipqmkclo0tFkBnmM35HonvzqYbgey6476cV-2cXHpTQDN5s9JNqdpUA4W0wGO0rXZWziCXw63ARxSvkLI_QL__lIT2ekP2XUuj3lWF2EvA/s1600/DS14+(598x800).jpg" width="239" /></a></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;">During the sealing process, I
applied the Poly Brush too heavily over the tape area and got these
nasty solvent bubbles that I could not get out. I will try to remove
them by brushing over these areas later with 65-75 Reducer. This is
the only area this happened on and I think what happened was that I
did not have the filler mixed in well enough which allowed a lot of
solvent to go right through the fabric and get trapped on the tape
surface.</span></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLzYhOS0f9GiRoQpVGKxcn08FF_lF0kcldnGwq99bPnTfPSi9GWk2QWqTgN1XwGDtf3HUX-WlYFh1D9SuX6mw_6m8f1OfODQ9zGtsQycVbaG-dYqN5GlGbP_W6FL0hnmFwlZErQR4XTg/s1600/DS16+(600x800).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLzYhOS0f9GiRoQpVGKxcn08FF_lF0kcldnGwq99bPnTfPSi9GWk2QWqTgN1XwGDtf3HUX-WlYFh1D9SuX6mw_6m8f1OfODQ9zGtsQycVbaG-dYqN5GlGbP_W6FL0hnmFwlZErQR4XTg/s1600/DS16+(600x800).jpg" width="240" /></a></span></span></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Lower
Left Panel</b></span></span></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Trimming off excess fabric on the
bottom blanket.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Z8mJxp2Wdh-3x6jqP8w_wGUqV-HwswAR9DfeE3o2esGs6OAukYcLs8sa-wUs34l68rjcTZ81pg9q4QDd60uWYbNjX2cMwhVQmdt1cYOyN1gxRcXkOEZe_8tYd2cdCPgA6lv1axEEQA/s1600/DSC00024+(600x800).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Z8mJxp2Wdh-3x6jqP8w_wGUqV-HwswAR9DfeE3o2esGs6OAukYcLs8sa-wUs34l68rjcTZ81pg9q4QDd60uWYbNjX2cMwhVQmdt1cYOyN1gxRcXkOEZe_8tYd2cdCPgA6lv1axEEQA/s1600/DSC00024+(600x800).jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Leaving the excess fabric on while
using the high temp small iron was best to get the fabric to conform
around the tip curves and both rib tube curves.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzOJBUmITpeRjF6IXbpKz8KDp_t4cFtgzrJrybdXY8puCWqUZ9O8womBscb7_q7vDm_exDeggEYpmx-jxA7W7-4YRpThRztv-1CEVKoWGNuTrVcGckg3YAAOE0Oo27HagazQqI3QQ7Yg/s1600/DSC00025+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzOJBUmITpeRjF6IXbpKz8KDp_t4cFtgzrJrybdXY8puCWqUZ9O8womBscb7_q7vDm_exDeggEYpmx-jxA7W7-4YRpThRztv-1CEVKoWGNuTrVcGckg3YAAOE0Oo27HagazQqI3QQ7Yg/s1600/DSC00025+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Started the top side blanket on
the lower left panel after assembling the upper panel to it with temp
rigging wires and all struts in place including diagonals and rudder
to check for fold down binding. There was none and the rudder
rotated freely so I am calling it good enough. The only issue is
that after folding the panels down the leading and trailing edges
don't line up and are off about 2 or 3 inches at the tips. Since
there is nothing I can do about this short of rebuilding the entire
panel frames, I am going to push on (I had made this decision back
when I repaired the upper left panel spar and was aware then that the
panels were skewed relative to each other when folded down). The
rudder control cable was too short to reach the rudder horn so I
decided to disassemble the cable from the twist grip.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ3zJCV8sTYzct_7KS9aKCVzFxXxfd-v7SF_zAiHIyfSjUkNa5sX7GR6y1CtnxOuDnycsAQFT-zTvOrBfwv4ja8E8W1Ki3f-_yWqBvpkjvXgi5OQDnFHN1LlbwNiR7-x0JMR97SYb0pg/s1600/DSC00027+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ3zJCV8sTYzct_7KS9aKCVzFxXxfd-v7SF_zAiHIyfSjUkNa5sX7GR6y1CtnxOuDnycsAQFT-zTvOrBfwv4ja8E8W1Ki3f-_yWqBvpkjvXgi5OQDnFHN1LlbwNiR7-x0JMR97SYb0pg/s1600/DSC00027+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">UFM shipped these assembled.
Notice how they had attached the cable to the twist grip tube. The
tube was padded with standard duct tape with the cable wrapped around
the tube. Filament tape was then used to secure the cable to the
tube and then the whole grip area was wrapped with what appeared to
be bike handle wrap tape. Brian Porter suggests I fit mine with 90
degree “handles”. His opinion was that </span>the twist grip is OK to learn on
but after you spend an hour in the air, those twist grips get really
tiring on the forearms.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I am going to put more span-wise
tension on the lower panels than I did on the upper panels because
they should be able to take more stress since they are
shorter/stockier. This time around, I cut out templates from
notebook paper to use in locating the bracket slits and it worked
fine, no need to use heavier card stock paper and also easier to
modify. The trick still remains as to the best way to locate the
slits prior to burning them.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Top Blanket Process Steps; </span>
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<ol>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">burn the tip LE bracket slits</span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">tension the fabric span-wise on
the LE</span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">mark position of mid-span bracket
slits (after checking that the fabric drape is parallel to the
LE...i.e. probably better not to mount the blanket crooked)</span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">burn mid LE slits ALL GLUING
FROM HERE ON IS ONLY A TACK LINE APPROX ½ INCH WIDE USING 50/50
GLUE/MEK (I did this because it allowed me to correct spots that
weren't right later)</span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">re-tension fabric and glue LE
from root to tip (used very light touch here to avoid inducing
puckers along the glue line). I ended up with a wrinkle and no way
to pull it out on the tip as I glued down the LE tip curve (do the
curve last)</span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">tensioned TE span-wise leaving
tip bracket outside clamped area, marked and burned the middle
bracket slits. I was careful to apply almost no chord-wise tension
when locating these slits...just barely enough to take out the
chord-wise looseness.</span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Glued fabric from mid bracket out
to the root end of the TE spar and then from the mid bracket out to
the tip just shy of the tip bracket.</span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Did the best I could to mark the
tip bracket slits and burned them. This was hard to do and I didn't
get the location very good and ended up with some big, ugly slits to
cover later. This bracket is so near the tip curve that it's by far
the hardest bracket to locate slits for. Probably a better
technique...I didn't find it.</span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Tack glued both the root and tip
rib tubes then went over the entire top side blanket looking for
loose spots and wrinkles. I used the big iron on low(225F) and did
only spot ironing to tighten out the waves and puckers I could see.
I then went back over with the small iron on high (350) and went
after the smaller, more difficult wrinkles and folds and got nearly
everything smooth.</span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"> <span style="font-size: small;">Flipped the panel over and
pulled the extra fabric over the spars snug so that the glue line I
had drawn in as a guide in gluing up the spars was visible through
the fabric. Used the finger guide against the spar technique (FGT)
to sketch in my cut line onto the extra fabric with a pencil.
Marked around the entire panel and then used the soldering knife tip
to hot melt the cut line. I used an aluminum straight edge as a
backing plate to cut against after finding that using a wood piece
kept making the tip wander as it tried to follow the grain vs the
cut line. I quickly concluded that using a hot knife to do this was
a poor choice. A sharp scissors leaves a far superior (smooth &
precise) fabric edge to glue down and takes less setup.</span></span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Glued the rest of the fabric wrap
around each spar plus the root and tip ribs</span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Detailed the bracket slit areas
to remove extra fabric and used the small iron to smooth things out
at each bracket in prep for the cover patches. Marked and cut out
cover patches as described previously except I found I could make
the paper templates much easier with notebook paper vs card stock.
Glued them in place using Poly Tak.</span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Decided on a 20 inch piece of
reinforcement fabric (4 inch wide bias tape from Aircraft Spruce) to
protect the TE tip section of the panel. Both the tips come into
ground contact when the glider is parked so they get the most wear.
Applied a glue line after marking it out in pencil. Glued down a
section on the top surface inboard of the tip bracket and let it
dry. Came back later and pulled tension on the tape, wrapping it
around the TE tip curve and clamped it. Used the small iron
starting in the middle of the curve and slowly ironed out all the
wrinkles and then glued the top part only. Used the same method on
the LE where I decided to add an additional piece of reinforcement
tape although not quite as long....approx. 16 inches. <i> I later
read the Poly Fiber manual and realized I had done this wrong.
Apparently all reinforcement tapes, including gusset patches applied
onto the fabric are cemented on using only Poly Brush, not fabric
cement (Poly Tak). The reason given is that Poly Tak cement is not
flexible enough.</i> Flipped the panel and penciled in the glue
line for the reinforcement tape sections and used the small iron to
smooth out the tape onto the glue area prior to wetting out the
fabric.</span></div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Went over entire frame top and
bottom with the small iron and smoothed out air pockets and patch
areas. Used large iron to finish off the top surface after blocking
in the washout (making sure the panel is properly blocked up prior
to the final ironing allows you to see where you need to iron and
where you don't since the frame is so flexible.</span></div>
</li>
</ol>
<div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I discovered that Poly Brush
solids (the ingredient that enables the fabric pores to be plugged)
settle out and do not go into solution even after vigorous shaking.
I had to stir the stuff off the bottom where it had settled out and
gummed up. You can tell you're getting into it since it is white in
color against the iron oxide red of the solvent mix. The Poly Fiber
manual talks about the function of Poly Brush being to seal the
fabric pores and some good discussion about the cause of pinholes and
what to do about them. I was supposed to thin the Poly Brush with
65-75 Reducer (according to the Poly Fiber manual) but Ernie never
dilutes Poly Brush with the first brush-on coat. I plan to use the
Reducer when I brush coat the last wing just to see if I have less or
more pinhole/bubble problems. I have now completed the first lower
wing panel through Poly Brush sealing and am on to the last remaining
wing panel. Here are the other photos of the progression on the
first lower panel;</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2prkit9RdJVhTYejlmZfvxoneJZwlLkOhRWXc2iSXlAN97DJT8TrVjchoiiAVNX25eCRy-NdNrwRmEUhSGM0QyuWcYGAyqk7rQEBk5yt9h7NCcr_nkcmWyvDcHW5w8BehJN3vDJ_hoA/s1600/DSC00028+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2prkit9RdJVhTYejlmZfvxoneJZwlLkOhRWXc2iSXlAN97DJT8TrVjchoiiAVNX25eCRy-NdNrwRmEUhSGM0QyuWcYGAyqk7rQEBk5yt9h7NCcr_nkcmWyvDcHW5w8BehJN3vDJ_hoA/s1600/DSC00028+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Used the side of my hand to apply
even but very light tension chord-wise as I tacked the spars.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3wvSsYjYjpyyImMK4SIy9OCUsYK6YoW-p7sW9IUc7VUSxvrOlbsVPXG_jMOm57Nv0vnVlZT5ggqtG-0xJrYS9acbX96PEA60VYjDyzwq1YmCO9WBsfi_LWWMKHnVEoyu5ZQF79oM39w/s1600/DSC00029+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3wvSsYjYjpyyImMK4SIy9OCUsYK6YoW-p7sW9IUc7VUSxvrOlbsVPXG_jMOm57Nv0vnVlZT5ggqtG-0xJrYS9acbX96PEA60VYjDyzwq1YmCO9WBsfi_LWWMKHnVEoyu5ZQF79oM39w/s1600/DSC00029+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">View of the tip end after tacking
it in place. Loose areas like this one I released the tack and
pulled most of it smooth and re-tacked it. What was left the iron
took care of easily.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUM76QvFLkbTUvYbJVBGZaL5rRLZr18LXjZ4PcoukCxf109w85Vg2wrJbTjhkh58IUUTZnJiEKdpObNlpf4gOVUJFKrkAAAVkTpO7eiLrhrChV0jx_VtZPYP14bjNNDecUmj_qtvVMLA/s1600/DSC00030+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUM76QvFLkbTUvYbJVBGZaL5rRLZr18LXjZ4PcoukCxf109w85Vg2wrJbTjhkh58IUUTZnJiEKdpObNlpf4gOVUJFKrkAAAVkTpO7eiLrhrChV0jx_VtZPYP14bjNNDecUmj_qtvVMLA/s1600/DSC00030+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">A shot of the TE tip area after
tacking. Notice there are some folds that will need to come out with
the iron.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzBcuF9ymEc80uYWK7FKww8stmER-SwRIdkibP21jtbFjdNchy0c_7jpI-fLu1QJUzdlUAUPDbztebqSrCdXUqItSonYDqGXEaOD-8y9mM70yLoXCiMV8ZDDYbZ_Sb6E0M7dvNt_iBlg/s1600/DSC00031+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzBcuF9ymEc80uYWK7FKww8stmER-SwRIdkibP21jtbFjdNchy0c_7jpI-fLu1QJUzdlUAUPDbztebqSrCdXUqItSonYDqGXEaOD-8y9mM70yLoXCiMV8ZDDYbZ_Sb6E0M7dvNt_iBlg/s1600/DSC00031+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I continue to screw up the bracket
slit locations. Fortunately, these ugly holes are easily covered
with the patches applied after Poly Brush sealing.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTHguMVtEuHNG78OJi1wryJg-vHj2B6AWc6aD8VOFFpn5yiogpXq7gE1w-UBxXu1ObytTVHlYJo9kNKicxS0K1hWSC2zXl8nCeM6F0rGwA4gtWD2AY_Bz7rQBDZKtExjDi4dhyphenhyphendyuYRA/s1600/DSC00032+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTHguMVtEuHNG78OJi1wryJg-vHj2B6AWc6aD8VOFFpn5yiogpXq7gE1w-UBxXu1ObytTVHlYJo9kNKicxS0K1hWSC2zXl8nCeM6F0rGwA4gtWD2AY_Bz7rQBDZKtExjDi4dhyphenhyphendyuYRA/s1600/DSC00032+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">A shot of me using the FGT (finger
guide technique described earlier) to draw the fabric cut line.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8alQZni1EXLJ0z5AvbbI9f5KPmMvGT8OLyM6ejmolb9_0TF-HMG9uQnfLRF-uh8La3je0mHXtBwuX-REXSeqBMd9a27UHeEmQrU6CBmyIvzdVVJf4veH7CjkpHi8gu3csPGpt6YOm3w/s1600/DSC00033+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8alQZni1EXLJ0z5AvbbI9f5KPmMvGT8OLyM6ejmolb9_0TF-HMG9uQnfLRF-uh8La3je0mHXtBwuX-REXSeqBMd9a27UHeEmQrU6CBmyIvzdVVJf4veH7CjkpHi8gu3csPGpt6YOm3w/s1600/DSC00033+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Here I am trying out the hot knife
approach to cutting the fabric along the cut line. This did not work
well. It required a backer plate to cut against, was hard to hold a
straight line and also tended to form melt beads in the fabric since
you cannot control the tip temperature. Use a good, sharp scissors
instead.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEwbOafPRYyWq714zRl7LWFZM5sG1lxEubZLdjBtZdnRTwPtT-DyKurxQAVKeD1vuqOlI6_jpvRS4gxdDyiYzyLlib5IU3i-6CxbF9WxfQxw95XOsnMmWiqVpoUQlEBjYaSi5pFTUnRw/s1600/DSC00035+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEwbOafPRYyWq714zRl7LWFZM5sG1lxEubZLdjBtZdnRTwPtT-DyKurxQAVKeD1vuqOlI6_jpvRS4gxdDyiYzyLlib5IU3i-6CxbF9WxfQxw95XOsnMmWiqVpoUQlEBjYaSi5pFTUnRw/s1600/DSC00035+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Didn't read the manual and glued
on this reinforcement bias tape to the high wear area on the TE tip
along with all the gusset patches on this wing. All tapes and
patches should be put on AFTER the first brush coat of Poly Brush per
the manual since glue is too inflexible.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwdf0dSwh58PsLwQB6o4lBMBDWIVtRANkUUVn01U2GVOFmFHwxXRngeU0Yrsy1zBPUZCBcYfsJGdsErRZCbZOu-ucU7-c8L8zGog5ciFiWEsF4zGez5ym6SZIrmL2gV3dQ7c4f0UgvZw/s1600/DSC00037+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwdf0dSwh58PsLwQB6o4lBMBDWIVtRANkUUVn01U2GVOFmFHwxXRngeU0Yrsy1zBPUZCBcYfsJGdsErRZCbZOu-ucU7-c8L8zGog5ciFiWEsF4zGez5ym6SZIrmL2gV3dQ7c4f0UgvZw/s1600/DSC00037+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Finished with initial brush-on
coat of Poly Brush.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhjJfqJhBpR4ZfuKGpitNzwKkDllRyRNsrQ3a7nu0ZTl3xo8sbRJIyzFqKvmOwJc9PtIWluBJiS07DagYEJz__yMWxlHyK4UCkWoxhhVYo8nbE77aEX1PrrPx-S5CG4hciw6yNoyIqOQ/s1600/DSC00039+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhjJfqJhBpR4ZfuKGpitNzwKkDllRyRNsrQ3a7nu0ZTl3xo8sbRJIyzFqKvmOwJc9PtIWluBJiS07DagYEJz__yMWxlHyK4UCkWoxhhVYo8nbE77aEX1PrrPx-S5CG4hciw6yNoyIqOQ/s1600/DSC00039+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Lower
Right Panel</b></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I will try to describe the best of
everything I've learned for this last panel starting with the
finished frame.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">First off, I wrapped all the rib
gussets with chafing tape (athletic tape works fine) as well as
anywhere the fabric wraps over rivets or gussets to minimize wear on
the fabric. The plans did not call for this but I think it's worth
doing.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Used the FGT(see above) to draw
glue lines onto the spars at the fabric tangent point. I did not
strip the old glue (Super Seam) after the Poly Fiber tech told me
these glues are compatible.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Applied full strength glue between
these lines with a ½ inch brush with the frame propped up off the
table with a support post for easy access rather than flipping the
frame and having to make two, separate glue passes to get the glue
area covered.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpcRruukJ37kkI1nbULrTiG5k8UGlxiUhR_XSarCrunc00Jx4c5JLogxFyzdQlbtGqoIB3POxt0KTUqegi7tRtsnshR8Tm5OQCo6CyvBCWy6EpyVi9NZytR_JnxQGoI_FJYROTSU7dXQ/s1600/IMG_0078+(598x800).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpcRruukJ37kkI1nbULrTiG5k8UGlxiUhR_XSarCrunc00Jx4c5JLogxFyzdQlbtGqoIB3POxt0KTUqegi7tRtsnshR8Tm5OQCo6CyvBCWy6EpyVi9NZytR_JnxQGoI_FJYROTSU7dXQ/s1600/IMG_0078+(598x800).jpg" width="239" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Applied glue to the bottom surface
rib cap strips only. Save the top surface rib cap glue for later.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><u>Bottom Blanket</u></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Roll out the fabric and cut to
length. Even out the overlap on both LE and TE and clamp the four
corners so that the fabric slack is mostly pulled out. Tack down
both the root and tip rib tubes with desired tension (3-4 lbs)
alternating back and forth from root to tip to keep the fabric even.
Stop about 4-5 inches away from the tip curve and the same from the
root rib tube corners. Take out the chord-wise slack and apply 3-4
lbs tension to the LE fabric and clamp it in place. Tack down the
LE starting in the middle and working out to within 4-5 inches of the
root and tip rib tubes. Use a very light touch on chord-wise
tension. The idea is to tack down the fabric along the straight line
of tension you are applying parallel to the LE and resist pulling on
it which only pulls it out of alignment. Repeat on the TE except
this time you want to take out the chord-wise slack using enough
tension to have a final, smooth fabric surface free of slack or major
wrinkles. Continue to tack the root and tip rib tubes moving right
on around the tip curve and the root rib tube and finish off both the
LE and TE to completely join the tack lines. This is the easiest
panel surface you have on the entire airframe (it's short and strong
and also has no bracket slits to contend with). so do it first saving
the upper panel bottom surfaces for last. You may get some small
wrinkles and puckers especially in the root and tip sections which
will have to be ironed out later so try to keep them from happening
in the first place. Use the FGT and pencil in the cut line onto the
fabric tail to be cut off all around the perimeter of the panel.
Make sure you draw this slightly short of the glue area on the spars
to ensure the fabric edge will hit glue when cut off and wrapped onto
the spar. Use the small iron on high (350F) and heat-form the fabric
around the tip curve. Best technique I found was to pull tension on
the tail and wrap the fabric around the tube while working the iron
around the tube. Start in the middle of the curve and work out and
take some time. If you do, you will likely get zero pleats or
wrinkles. Keep wrapping and forming until you are an 1/8 inch past
the cut line. Work the rib camber curve area in the same manner for
both the tip and root. There is also some detail cutting and
snipping to be done to fit the fabric around the root rib tube where
it joins the TE and LE. Using a sharp scissors, cut off the excess
fabric and begin the finished gluing of the entire frame perimeter.
I used the same order as I did to tack the fabric. If the glue lines
you penciled in are not still easy to see, re-trace them now. You
will need to be able to see them through the top blanket fabric.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><u>Top Blanket</u></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Set the panel up onto a support
post and apply full strength glue between the glue guide lines you
drew for the bottom panel. Keep the glue from going past the edge of
the fabric which should stop right at the fabric tangent point. If
you don't, when you do final gluing of the top blanket, the fabric
can stick down past the tangent line and form little puckers just
inboard on the spar and they are almost impossible to get out while
maintaining very light chord-wise tension.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Lay the panel flat on a table with
a washout support block in place and apply glue to the rib cap strips
going right on over the filament tape. Go extra heavy over the anti
chaffing tape because it will absorb the glue like a sponge.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Rolled out the fabric and cut it
with about 4 inches extra on both ends.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Tacked down about 12 inches on the
root rib tube just aft of the last LE tape strip using maybe 4-5
pounds of tension (a bit more than the bottom because you need the
tension to hold the fabric up between the ribs so support the small
amount of chord-wise tension you'll need to apply to get a smooth
fabric surface that won't flutter in flight.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Repeat on tip. Ended up with some
small span-wise waves and puckers which will come out when I apply a
little chord-wise tension later on.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Extended gluing on both root and
tip tube ribs stopping short of the tip curve and the spars at the
root end.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Tacked down the LE starting at the
root out to the tip. Very light touch on chord-wise tension. Just
barely enough to avoid a pucker at the fabric tangent point on the LE
spar.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Clamped LE at tip and root with
moderate tension to locate and burn the middle bracket slit.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I made a paper template to pencil
trace the slits onto the fabric prior to burning them.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Applied final LE tension and
located tip bracket and burned it in.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Starting from the middle bracket,
tacked the LE to the root and then to the tip stopping short of the
curve at the tip.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Clamped moderate tension on TE and
located, then burned the middle bracket slits with just enough
chord-wise tension to just take up the slackness in the fabric
without any pull down between ribs.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Proceed to tack glue the LE from
the middle bracket to the tip and then to the root stopping short of
the tip curve.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Applied final tension of TE
(guessing 4-5 lbs) and located, then burned the tip bracket slits.
Again, with minimal chord-wise tension. There should be almost no
detectible pull down between ribs in the area just aft of the last
span of filament tape.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Tack glue the TE beginning at the
middle bracket to the tip and then to the root stopping short of the
tip curve.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Tack glue the tip rib using light
span-wise tension. Work from the center of the tip rib tube out to
the LE and then repeat out to the TE and continue right on around the
curve. Tack a thin strip approx. ¼ wide right at the fabric tangent
line.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Tack the root rib tube the same
way except pull moderately strong span-wise tension as you glue(4-5
lbs?). If you are careful, you should have almost no wrinkles,
folds, puckers or pleats. Even after all the practice I've had doing
this, I still get some but they come out with the iron at 225F. Any
left after that, I hit with the small iron set at high (350F).</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Fix any problem areas if needed by
releasing the tack line with MEK and re-gluing. With the panel bottom
side down on the table, wrap the excess fabric around the spars and
trace a line onto the fabric right over the cut line you drew on the
spars.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Heat
forming to the curves</b></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Take the small iron and slowly
work the fabric down into the glue all along the tip curve while
applying some tension on the fabric tail (this is why you didn't cut
this off yet, you need it to hang onto and pull to help form the
fabric to the curve....<i>.if you cut off the excess and try to form
the fabric, you will end up with pleats that you cannot iron out</i>).</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglr9p1iTaNwVSiFeKG-E_X3cKe9-HLJnLK4SCalpCmBW9z0Hh3Pr_-s4dd7qtDj2IurC052PubTe-H0Twd6V52zdUbvm5OUC5gWhAqxbC_uDO-XeOWZfWQw2aKSLkl-rRM_U1nfDHN9Q/s1600/DSC00002+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglr9p1iTaNwVSiFeKG-E_X3cKe9-HLJnLK4SCalpCmBW9z0Hh3Pr_-s4dd7qtDj2IurC052PubTe-H0Twd6V52zdUbvm5OUC5gWhAqxbC_uDO-XeOWZfWQw2aKSLkl-rRM_U1nfDHN9Q/s1600/DSC00002+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqC-iePA2Ym2mIRIq46MtbqqHOKb4JRRtGFihyNVq3bJzRNiHbNpvgz_09NlNBtwxWT9z02h9eqIHxXegqHjvjMS6I3K6QUYKX-8nXsqVSZRVdXQTPdUAdAqa-VjnjctLpzcJ3Sbs4zA/s1600/DSC00003+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqC-iePA2Ym2mIRIq46MtbqqHOKb4JRRtGFihyNVq3bJzRNiHbNpvgz_09NlNBtwxWT9z02h9eqIHxXegqHjvjMS6I3K6QUYKX-8nXsqVSZRVdXQTPdUAdAqa-VjnjctLpzcJ3Sbs4zA/s1600/DSC00003+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpYcTG8ELli6pG8xgokNaznoUNXqaIwiX-G7NxVNFbX_t-avqOgJdYricaSdP44W1qgWLdhlXbyopr2HKbUtKc29YNGjtEkM0ks_fVas5sofpI7YkXo7GxXi4Er4Ex9M12n-aZzIpd0A/s1600/DSC00005+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpYcTG8ELli6pG8xgokNaznoUNXqaIwiX-G7NxVNFbX_t-avqOgJdYricaSdP44W1qgWLdhlXbyopr2HKbUtKc29YNGjtEkM0ks_fVas5sofpI7YkXo7GxXi4Er4Ex9M12n-aZzIpd0A/s1600/DSC00005+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">The glue acts like hot melt glue
when you do this and actually sticks down. Get as much as you can
from the bottom side and then flip the frame over and finish it. You
should be able to get all the pleats worked out right up to the cut
line and a little past it.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Repeat this process all along the
root rib tube.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiivKTfPQvoXADx99rNkgt3iZ_W-NUklmuC7xSyd-ZFV4z-6b8Ub6_-8iSP-g4cPg7_BBxjiayT44iK28uzECpEqMogR72XqtAiC2x6Q904-NbQY7Z-lAHE1PK7OX6HcQTxMazTtH0iuw/s1600/DSC00006+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiivKTfPQvoXADx99rNkgt3iZ_W-NUklmuC7xSyd-ZFV4z-6b8Ub6_-8iSP-g4cPg7_BBxjiayT44iK28uzECpEqMogR72XqtAiC2x6Q904-NbQY7Z-lAHE1PK7OX6HcQTxMazTtH0iuw/s1600/DSC00006+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Use a nice, sharp scissors and cut
the excess fabric off. There is some detail work around the root rib
tube that you'll have to screw with to get it to look good including
the slit for the rudder control cable.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Final
Gluing</b></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Start gluing the fabric from the
middle bracket out on both the LE and TE. The only way this worked
for me was using my bare finger and a ½ inch brush doing about a 3
inch section at a time moving as fast as I could. The idea is to
smash and work the 50/50 glue/MEK through the fabric into the glue
layer on the spar. If it doesn't seem to be wetting out the glue
layer underneath, dilute the mix with more MEK. Even though you
heat-formed the fabric around the tip curves and root rib tube, it
still needs to be glued so just make sure you've gone all the way
around the entire frame once you start gluing. Save gluing the rib
cap strips for the very last thing you do prior to applying the Poly
Brush sealant. Go around the entire frame and iron out any
topography over the entire frame glue area you just finished. The
entire frame perimeter should be nice and smooth when you are done.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Ironing</b></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Set the big iron to 225F, check
that the washout block is in place and hit areas that are the least
taut first. The idea here is to get somewhere close to even tension
on the entire panel and remove all wrinkles and puckers in the
fabric. I watched the inter rib pull down very closely as I did this
to make sure I didn't go any further than necessary to remove
wrinkles and get a reasonable fabric tension (whatever that is). I
never had to go past 225F to get all the wrinkles out. You can go
all the way up to 350F with no fabric degradation if you had to. Let
the glue dry overnight.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Sealing</b></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Mix the Poly Brush 3:1 with one
part 65-75 Reducer. Use a stirring stick to get the filler off the
bottom of the can of Poly Brush and get it completely stirred into
the solvent. It is a whitish material and settles out really fast as
gum on the bottom of the can. I brushed this on in a shop with the
temp set to 65F where it was 50F outside and raining in Oregon and
had no trouble with blushing. Used a 3 inch disposable natural
bristle brush which had nice and soft bristles (the polyester ones were too stiff and not well tapered). Fast and easy was
the trick. Avoid slopping it on. Brush out any bubbles that form
since they will dry in the coat and only come out if you go back
later with solvent which is a pain to do.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>What's
next</b></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I had some ugly, oversized bracket
slits after doing a poor job of properly locating them. I'll cut
nice patches later and apply them with Poly Brush sealant over the
first brush-on coat applied above</span></div>
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
jcoyierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14560463891091725092noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6214318667395871924.post-78799637938051106482013-10-15T10:07:00.002-07:002017-09-10T12:08:22.650-07:00 #12 Covering & Sealing The Wings<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
My apologies in advance for this “less
polished” entry. Since this will be the third time through the
covering process, I didn't take photos like I did initially so this
will be almost all text in contrast to the scrapbook style I've post
previously. <span style="color: red;">You might notice that I talk about bowing the frame aft in both the bottom blanket and top blanket process summaries. I am doing this only because my frame tends to bow with even the slightest amount of span wise tension. Although this counter spring didn't seem to help much, I thought it required an explanation. My frame may be slightly weak from the impact when I crashed, even though I replaced the spar that broke. I have not heard anyone else running into this problem and am surprised they haven't given the plan directions that tell you to "pull it as tight as you can" referring to stretching the fabric span wise.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Process summary:</div>
<br />
<ol>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
block the TE near the bracket
positions and at the tip and root. Apply enough pressure to
slightly bow the spar aft.</div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
clamp 15 inch section on both tip
and root making sure to apply some chord-wise tension and snug up
the span tension, maybe 1 pound force? And glue it down.</div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Tension the TE with clamps to
about 1 pound then locate and cut bracket slits.</div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Glue down 8 inches of the center
rib then repeat alternately between the tip and root until you do
the last cap strips.</div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Go back to the center rib and work
in the same manner toward either the TE or the LE until you reach
the rib tape. Repeat on opposite side.</div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Spend some time now experimenting
with what tension will do in various locations so you get a good
feel on how to proceed. Especially watch what chord-wise tension
does.</div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Detach any areas where you have
wrinkles that can be removed with a slight amount of either
span-wise or chord-wise tension. At this point the surface should
be nearly wrinkle-free.</div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Clamp span tension in the spars
and glue starting at the center and working out to the tip and root
being very careful about chord-wise tension. Finish both spars
working right onto the tip and root ribs. Iron these curved areas
first with the small iron at 350 + to make the fabric conform prior
to gluing.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtw3pxeQ2gXvaAH-4ZcluKebS8-eK5QMRdCZxnNLvE8O9dCwp1FK6Zlr0lkhuNMUOZC5RPTFWaj9Zo2vik4bLQUz2XbwYhQgqJIO9p_7NrxYUdjZqfQPt7C8-DOl-YwrdlAuBSMkySnw/s1600/DSC00005+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtw3pxeQ2gXvaAH-4ZcluKebS8-eK5QMRdCZxnNLvE8O9dCwp1FK6Zlr0lkhuNMUOZC5RPTFWaj9Zo2vik4bLQUz2XbwYhQgqJIO9p_7NrxYUdjZqfQPt7C8-DOl-YwrdlAuBSMkySnw/s1600/DSC00005+(800x600).jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
</li>
</ol>
<div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Blanket cut to length and ready to be
clamped.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTrNHc03nRlRdS-y2ad8t1393JjZtBxIyu6ZmrI-fUh84H96OPraQoVmSnoXFvnd7M9W3hM_JBms8ccYvZSW2jWvi6YEvA6TRJGw9rvtbumECyiQemQ5c2jNl8O5gLsMFnUsrYRr6_HQ/s1600/IMG_0055+(598x800).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTrNHc03nRlRdS-y2ad8t1393JjZtBxIyu6ZmrI-fUh84H96OPraQoVmSnoXFvnd7M9W3hM_JBms8ccYvZSW2jWvi6YEvA6TRJGw9rvtbumECyiQemQ5c2jNl8O5gLsMFnUsrYRr6_HQ/s1600/IMG_0055+(598x800).jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
The shot above shows Ernie Moreno (EAA
Technical Counselor) looking at my bottom blanket as I attempt to
stretch and clamp it prior to gluing.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Apply glue to spars along a strip well
clear of the bottom surface tangent. The upper surface side of the
spar can be glued well past the tangent since you'll be wrapping the
cut edge over into the inside of the panel and you want that edge to
lie down onto the spar away from the upper blanket when it's applied.
It might be easiest to do the bottom glue line first and then flip
the panel to continue the glue boundary around the top side of the
spar to the inside of the panel. Use a couple of spring clamps to
clamp approximately 15 inch section at the middle of the tip rib
(curved aluminum tip piece) while applying a moderate amount of
span-wise tension like maybe one pound of force. Wet the glue and
smash the cloth into it smoothing out air pockets. At this point you
have not yet trimmed off the extra cloth, this will be done after
gluing the entire perimeter of the panel. Do the same on the tip
after removing the clamps applying maybe a pound of force span-wise.
Keep in mind, this is what I found I had to do to avoid dog-legging
the spars and NOT what the plans say. The plans say to pull span
wise tension as tight as you can. If I did that, I already know I'd
dog-leg the spars all to hell. This may be because the spars in my
frame were weakened in the crash and are not perfectly straight as
they are in a virgin kit. Begin in the center and glue down
approximately 8 inches of one of the ribs. Clamp both ends of the TE with some
span-wise tension and cut the bracket slots with a paddle tip
soldering iron. I made templates (rectangle cut out of art board)
and pencil traced the slots eyeballing their locations on the cloth.
Repeat on LE. Some I got OK, others I missed and had to re-cut extra
slots in the right location. There is probably a better process to
locate the slits exactly. Work out each rib with 8 inch strips alternating
between root and tip sides until you have all the ribs glued. Repeat
toward either the LE or TE but stop short of gluing to the spars.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvygT5nuVCBw8Rjpeud4V8R-wTu1CmV6xA8DizWKiFrl3Naxy3z9NatTjrhisAmjtdWNDdrvU9o9p9KzZo921ddOY-ERETnp3IFQFpeauxbcmWKt64TL3za1BFqFtpuxJkdVZGxcff4g/s1600/IMG_0056+(598x800).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvygT5nuVCBw8Rjpeud4V8R-wTu1CmV6xA8DizWKiFrl3Naxy3z9NatTjrhisAmjtdWNDdrvU9o9p9KzZo921ddOY-ERETnp3IFQFpeauxbcmWKt64TL3za1BFqFtpuxJkdVZGxcff4g/s1600/IMG_0056+(598x800).jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Spend a half hour or so and play with
the cloth tension at the TE and LE watching what happens when you
tension the cloth, especially chord-wise. Detach any really wrinkled
areas if you get any and carefully apply slightly more span wise
tension. When I finished here I had a fairly wrinkle-free bottom
panel with very light span-wise and chord-wise tension. I estimated
the bow to be about ¼ to ½ an inch along the entire spar. To
finish, I clamped both ends of each spar and began gluing from the
center out to the tip and then the root or visa versa...didn't
matter. I took a lot of time here and tried to apply as little
chord-wise tension as possible and still have most of the wrinkles
gone. The problem areas are the tip curves and the chord airfoil
curves in both the tip and root tubes. I tried to iron in the curve
but had marginal success. I used an hand-held, infra red laser
thermometer to monitor the iron temperatures I refer to throughout.
Cut some slits and did what I could using the small iron at 345 F to
finish off smashing the folds down to a reasonable level. Went
around the perimeter and trimmed off the extra cloth ending up with a
wrap somewhat past the tangent line (line where the finished cloth
surface leaves the spar). Did this free hand with a razor blade.
Finished off the panel by gluing down the trimmed edge (wet the glue
that I had applied earlier). This was easier after I decided to flip
the panel over. Went over the entire perimeter with the small iron
at<span style="color: black;"> 34</span>5 smoothing out any bubbles or
wrinkles. Sketched in a glue reference line for the top blanket to
get approximately 1 ¼ inch cloth overlap. Applied glue to the area
for the entire perimeter and all rib caps if they weren't done prior.
Cut the next blanket to length. Clamp the cloth in place with
span-wise tension ~0.5 – 1.0 pounds? Trim off the roller perf edge
of the cloth along the LE. Set both the root and tip with a short
glue tack spot making sure the edge of the cloth is on the
pre-marked line to get the 1 ¼ inch of overlap. Note that this is
also a deviation from plan directions which show overlapping 1/2”
from the cloth tangent to the spar. I did not have to go this far to
get the standard 1 inch overlap required on certified aircraft. This
also avoids messes in the cloth right where it leaves the spar. I
found it best to leave this area completely free of glue prior to
doing the overlap of the final blanket. I did this by tracing in
straight pencil lines defining a 1 inch wide band along both the TE
and LE and applying the glue only in that area which can easily be
located entirely on the spar surface and not go past the cloth
tangent line.Process summary:</div>
<ol>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
block the TE against the brackets
and at both ends. Put enough pressure on it to pull the spar
straight or slightly bowed aft (opposing what the frame does when it
sees span-wise tension from the fabric)</div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
tension the LE with clamps and
then glue from the middle working outward.</div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Tension the TE span-wise but also
applying some chord-wise tension and clamp so that the wrinkles as
just barely out. Play with it from tip to root until all wrinkles
are out.</div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Tack down the TE from the middle
out. Remember to tack, not glue since you might need to release
some areas before you're done.</div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Tack down the LE from the middle
out.</div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Last, work right on around the tip
curves and the root curve (not convinced pre-ironing these curves
really helped)</div>
</li>
</ol>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Start at the middle of the LE and
tack down the entire LE working outward toward either the root or the
tip. Repeat on the opposite end. I used almost no tension here at
all since I had already pulled the cloth to tension it along the
span. It should lie flat and smooth with no wrinkles at all. Do
the same thing on the TE except clamp the fabric using moderate span
tension of about 1-2 pounds while at the same time applying slight
chord-wise tension to just barely keep the wrinkles out. Play with
this going back and forth from the root to the tip to get it nice and
smooth. When it looks really good, go ahead and begin tacking down
the TE starting at the middle of the spar and working out. Watch
carefully as you do this as you will be using almost NO chord-wise
tension. Even if you have some waves (these may show up right as the fabric leaves
the spar) which I left if I could not get them to disappear without
inducing inter-rib sag. I figure the iron will take out some of this
and I may also come back and release some of the tack and re-glue
later just prior to ironing. I am convinced that this procedure can
produce an almost wrinkle-free covering without even ironing if you
take your time. It does take some skill and patience though. I did
get some inter-rib sag that was noticeable when viewing from the TE
but the filament tape area was virtually sag-free prior to ironing.
I had applied about 12-15 pounds of force aft at the middle of the TE
using blocks screwed to the table about 3-4 ft inboard and then
clamped blocks pushing forward toward the LE at the tip and root. I
could not really apply enough pressure to move the spars such that I
got a concave LE profile....it was almost exactly straight. I left
this tension in the frame when I glued down the LE, TE, tip and root.
When I released the tension, some very loose pockets formed near the
tip at the back half of the chord. I plan to release these areas and
re-glue. The relaxed frame looked to still have some sweep curve but
I think it will work. Next, I set the iron at 220 F. Ended up
watching both my new iron and Ernie's old beater and neither one held
very close to a setting. I averaged 245 for the main wing ironing
and ended up just barely getting the extra puckers and ripples out of
the main panels in between ribs. I did not glue the ribs on the top
surface prior to ironing. I think this was best. I plan to do that
as the very last step before Poly Brush. I used the small iron set
to about 360-380 and got good results ironing out bubbles and
wrinkles in the overlapped areas. Also used it to roll the edges on
the tip curves and the root rib curve and got them both down with
very few wrinkles or folds. I was concerned that I might melt the
cloth with the iron this hot but did not see any melting even when it
measured 400 F. I was a bit shy on the glue line and long on
trimming both the LE and TE overlap (at least in spots) making the
glue joint look filled in was hard. It was really nice not to deal
with over glued areas past the LE or TE since I left very little
tension in the chord to pull these puckers out once they lay down in
the excess glue. I did end up releasing one area in the LE and
pulled out a fairly major pucker spanning an entire rib bay. It came
out looking much better than when I started and after finishing it
off with the small iron, it was really wrinkle-free. Rib sag came in
to the tune of about ¼ to 3/8 inch on the aft edge of the tape line
farthest in from the LE. I cannot envision getting it any better
than this and still having a wrinkle-free covering. I had about as
little chord-wise tension as absolutely possible and still have no
wrinkles or puckers. When I pick up the tip allowing the panel to
rest on the root end, there are multiple wavy wrinkles that appear
which gives an idea of how loosely I have the sail
strung. I applied 50/50 glue/MEK to the rib caps on the top side,
holding slight pressure with the edge of my left palm while brushing
on the glue with my right. I only had to keep the slight pressure on
for 5-10 seconds to get the glue to hold the fabric on the cap strip.
The shop was about 65 F when I was doing this. I detailed the
surface after blocking in the washout using the small iron at 345 F.
It was easy to take out nearly every little wrinkle.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Applying Poly Brush I found that froth
formed from shaking the can and did not dissipate until halfway into
the panel. I had to really watch for air bubbles as I brushed on the
sealant and brush them out as I went. If I didn't do this, they end
up being significant topography in the coating and will obviously be
seen after painting the final coat. It is best to do the bottom
first so that after drying overnight, you can flip the panel and not
have the ribs hitting the table. I didn't do this on the first panel
and it did not stick but better do the bottom first on the rest. I
used a small brush, maybe 1 ½ inch wide? Could have used a wider
brush. These were the $1 disposable natural bristle found at Home
Depot. I tried a wider, polyester brush I got at Sherwin Williams
paint store and found it was way too stiff and just did not work. I
definitely prefer a pliable brush to do this. Ernie says I can use
the iron after Poly Brush to clean up any wrinkles I miss.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF_1XLhhnL9khmRG7JK2ae0NUNt_SDZk10O8RQt6Brxr2fv9_wM-tMagM6Kdpcqwa2kTKEwMpijBomlY7xeHsCnVouUDltgN1RLiLyrN6oO-SGifNzV5yRE-Xs4-qmYVgyOJ8K9cRNJA/s1600/DSC00003+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF_1XLhhnL9khmRG7JK2ae0NUNt_SDZk10O8RQt6Brxr2fv9_wM-tMagM6Kdpcqwa2kTKEwMpijBomlY7xeHsCnVouUDltgN1RLiLyrN6oO-SGifNzV5yRE-Xs4-qmYVgyOJ8K9cRNJA/s1600/DSC00003+(800x600).jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxKDwkQrPOGq8RYrXgz6DRt9DVXUo7RXYPb-951gYEaRx1HaQe1oit_pvcyg7dg85OHk02iQRLsFzJeJ-EHY1Yr-v5HpnC7QDyvf4357TKnJPp9N4PyTgvIEH0pwHTWCalLVVSWBlvSA/s1600/DSC00004+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxKDwkQrPOGq8RYrXgz6DRt9DVXUo7RXYPb-951gYEaRx1HaQe1oit_pvcyg7dg85OHk02iQRLsFzJeJ-EHY1Yr-v5HpnC7QDyvf4357TKnJPp9N4PyTgvIEH0pwHTWCalLVVSWBlvSA/s1600/DSC00004+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
These shots of the first brushed-on coat of sealant (Poly Brush) give you a rough view of the tension I have in the fabric. There are no wrinkles at all when I've got the washout blocked in but if I lift the tip off the table onto the root spar ends, large span-wise wrinkles appear. I am counting on final rigging to hold the wing panels flat just like I have it laying on the table here and it should be wrinkle-free.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj33mPtaguVRfqh_ffjFPlcHRpmvSsqX67Viyjlg3tdYxrgAUhSEBOnlYGJ7b-X70Cxo-Lacik3VtyL4_RUS1WgJmB9IzusM3aMyKq7TkX8VxN06Kuuu41_oXA5bdcbq0hRe8jXLE9hgw/s1600/DSC00002+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj33mPtaguVRfqh_ffjFPlcHRpmvSsqX67Viyjlg3tdYxrgAUhSEBOnlYGJ7b-X70Cxo-Lacik3VtyL4_RUS1WgJmB9IzusM3aMyKq7TkX8VxN06Kuuu41_oXA5bdcbq0hRe8jXLE9hgw/s1600/DSC00002+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
Finally finished painting the trailer and putting all the door hardware back on. Here it is at the shop, ready for the first wing panel to come off the table so I can move on to the right, upper wing panel.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF1kvajePBUZGY6orQ8dcB14PbJIu6tF_HqMRKa0CPeD1LLydaTkNRvcHiC0YVO34ZOCeh6luR0XlzdoXdebC1En5RlSZAUEj1sdic_nr85ua3KokVU9wbbyeoM8zQOX4kECXJ1xqMSQ/s1600/DSC00006+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF1kvajePBUZGY6orQ8dcB14PbJIu6tF_HqMRKa0CPeD1LLydaTkNRvcHiC0YVO34ZOCeh6luR0XlzdoXdebC1En5RlSZAUEj1sdic_nr85ua3KokVU9wbbyeoM8zQOX4kECXJ1xqMSQ/s1600/DSC00006+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
Looks nice, doesn't it? Really having regrets about not spending more time planning out the color scheme on the trailer.....primer white????, what was I thinking. Now it's going to be a pain in the ass to change! Probably will just leave it.</div>
</div>
jcoyierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14560463891091725092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6214318667395871924.post-48964326515002001252013-09-11T09:42:00.000-07:002017-09-10T12:09:54.081-07:00 #11 Patching My Trainer Easy + Finish Work on Trailer<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Repaired holes in
Darrel Robbin's Easy using Clear Aerothane which was recommended by
the tech at Polyfiber. Aerothane is a two part polyurethane
recommended as a sealing coat on light weight sails and is supposed
to stick well to nitrate dope surfaces (I wiped the areas with MEK to
clean them prior to patching). I needed very little Aerothane to do
these patches so mixed up small amounts using a teaspoon measuring
set and stirring up the two-part mix in a small cup.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7K93Ssux4sy7H9WfNFDaaZJypGCK514HmdoseCPr8g7FaXqUKfLVj1nsBl1ZmL8y4hjt2XHfuAccsAgexJWn7x3LrexteobWWH51dyZsWGAEZWwgJoIFZhVcZVG8wrDdQNKhOoL8yiw/s1600/D6+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7K93Ssux4sy7H9WfNFDaaZJypGCK514HmdoseCPr8g7FaXqUKfLVj1nsBl1ZmL8y4hjt2XHfuAccsAgexJWn7x3LrexteobWWH51dyZsWGAEZWwgJoIFZhVcZVG8wrDdQNKhOoL8yiw/s1600/D6+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">The Aerothane is
being used as a glue and sealant in this process. I found the best
way to do the patches was to apply the Aerothane around the perimeter
of the patch area and let it set for about 20 minutes while I cut the
patch out of scrap cloth. It was warm and dry when I did this and
after 20 minutes the Aerothane was tacky. I carefully applied the
patch trying to keep wrinkles and air pockets out of the patch job.
Once I had pressed it into place, I went over it with wet Aerothane
to finish sealing the patched area.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQrO7H2VMVD5pJZaCnn66X_KqEVCzKPox5wFe59XVSJ62u2jIhSFHogjlPvljgpbFhiTZ6noP0_hy-JfwC39UxCF3ofS7ZPWtw98kMC8HI6XFdDRFtzHhcob8kmqlwhULQpR3VtAVY6w/s1600/D3+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQrO7H2VMVD5pJZaCnn66X_KqEVCzKPox5wFe59XVSJ62u2jIhSFHogjlPvljgpbFhiTZ6noP0_hy-JfwC39UxCF3ofS7ZPWtw98kMC8HI6XFdDRFtzHhcob8kmqlwhULQpR3VtAVY6w/s1600/D3+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjshohBkQ7fPkfHzcjYIX1quCCgqW_CuaXUtvSxMoDIN4aP8s41FxhAUn6RoA93fqSGuFHCIXL7jCygzo1e3GDXNaTgNM_gdTnME3kI_hPXEJtUx2m9tFmr23kdr9ezQl7cjMcG9PDkTw/s1600/D1+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjshohBkQ7fPkfHzcjYIX1quCCgqW_CuaXUtvSxMoDIN4aP8s41FxhAUn6RoA93fqSGuFHCIXL7jCygzo1e3GDXNaTgNM_gdTnME3kI_hPXEJtUx2m9tFmr23kdr9ezQl7cjMcG9PDkTw/s1600/D1+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdYuRfvbbGYg8bRs4qaU_2SnprBIkvW_hg_I3iUMjsjgs2pI5R-eOjyvVGCSdcV3ZYoLh9SU5HinlM3pmuOyAkYpfdMhWNEhpKRqFJ1Kyn-ve5GZ-67pvcTVtbsQ1yJbbiB3VAu7bVSg/s1600/D2+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdYuRfvbbGYg8bRs4qaU_2SnprBIkvW_hg_I3iUMjsjgs2pI5R-eOjyvVGCSdcV3ZYoLh9SU5HinlM3pmuOyAkYpfdMhWNEhpKRqFJ1Kyn-ve5GZ-67pvcTVtbsQ1yJbbiB3VAu7bVSg/s1600/D2+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">On the rudder
corner, I could not get the fabric to stay down after wrapping it 90
degrees and ended up using masking tape to hold it in place while the
Aerothane dried. This worked well and the tape came off without a
problem.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivEfKvBQvg3HaAU_4acuY78-o3H0gWW5KGnPybJ5S6Z3X9ZTKzc4uNm11xqvIRfmnLpq46M9gypJnhWecZXPydnQdy-nc_XwBXN0pG4cuy4_tZqeLtjl5VLWoBUEL9EnPMLk8FtNWMzQ/s1600/D7+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivEfKvBQvg3HaAU_4acuY78-o3H0gWW5KGnPybJ5S6Z3X9ZTKzc4uNm11xqvIRfmnLpq46M9gypJnhWecZXPydnQdy-nc_XwBXN0pG4cuy4_tZqeLtjl5VLWoBUEL9EnPMLk8FtNWMzQ/s1600/D7+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">It was
interesting to note that on this glider, the lower bracket for the
inboard diagonal strut cut a hole in the fabric when the wing folded
down. I had to patch these areas on both upper wings and it was
evident that Darrel had patched them previously. I noticed the
bracket on one was misaligned on the wing strut such that the bracket
was rotated out of plane toward the upper panel where the tear
occurred. I bent it back into plane which should make it easier to
install the diagonal strut during setup as well as eliminate any
contact of the bracket with the wing surface. The only other thing I
could do would be to pad this area such that the wings cannot fold
completely together (maybe only a half inch would easily prevent any
contact).</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I fabricated an
elastic cord loop to replace the small bungee cord that came with the
kit to provide counter force on the rudder horn. Darrel had done
this on one wing but it was missing on the one I fixed.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQpMXtvaQzoT5sCYw4pWIJbNF8s6IMCtwoRvR76sIfK5OOUZeo3WoHhO6rlbkJmZ0TGERvJLT1sb7egqa9mHgQjyKasOX_vNrCn0rgVIJgIic1MvcCCNa1Y9pd9LG4xee4I_aSkgk36w/s1600/D4+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQpMXtvaQzoT5sCYw4pWIJbNF8s6IMCtwoRvR76sIfK5OOUZeo3WoHhO6rlbkJmZ0TGERvJLT1sb7egqa9mHgQjyKasOX_vNrCn0rgVIJgIic1MvcCCNa1Y9pd9LG4xee4I_aSkgk36w/s1600/D4+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I realized that I
need to get the trailer finished now since Darrel's glider is ready
to fly but I can't transport it without the trailer. Started coating
the trailer bed boards with epoxy resin in prep for bolting them to
the frame.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5d06G6RKEpnUS3_TNMIWCqop5mnLR_iYiI1LiEOwMVS_AZFJeoRu6KLvZ5th-454Lrzp5CdWAlJchH-Zy9Jl5y2fhr5qg_YLRpuB4gy8mCKgjzwzvUr0DzE_u0K4iXbMp_A6TngMvEw/s1600/D5+(600x800).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5d06G6RKEpnUS3_TNMIWCqop5mnLR_iYiI1LiEOwMVS_AZFJeoRu6KLvZ5th-454Lrzp5CdWAlJchH-Zy9Jl5y2fhr5qg_YLRpuB4gy8mCKgjzwzvUr0DzE_u0K4iXbMp_A6TngMvEw/s1600/D5+(600x800).jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Here is a shot of
the main bracket I had to make to hold down the box to the trailer
tongue.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6hWIbv1F5TYEdo1JcchjIWvj5xxRcEevPX0F15SOi9Qauz1GqQ08Pz-jrIK9sFso1DcG6LZqXoSkPBaBhqOB78B-70mjncnY5nyfDe17BUIKctU8IsGWlah4Pt8ynqhFB5bG7ntKX7g/s1600/D8+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6hWIbv1F5TYEdo1JcchjIWvj5xxRcEevPX0F15SOi9Qauz1GqQ08Pz-jrIK9sFso1DcG6LZqXoSkPBaBhqOB78B-70mjncnY5nyfDe17BUIKctU8IsGWlah4Pt8ynqhFB5bG7ntKX7g/s1600/D8+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">The main beam I
laminated two cedar 2X6's together, screwed them and coated them with
epoxy. Here they are with the brackets in place to attach to the
box.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRSZGWjZCoElz4VHgst003xykZR5d0mvuZnBcXt5omSeMAYBobUcYPevfNps4uKrrmoR4BYNRCF25jx7CGK9IEZe7PmQ8h6I7-s17DUtMbXaEwChO67HydRenRy8ijAwmNUwLZwfSH8w/s1600/D9+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRSZGWjZCoElz4VHgst003xykZR5d0mvuZnBcXt5omSeMAYBobUcYPevfNps4uKrrmoR4BYNRCF25jx7CGK9IEZe7PmQ8h6I7-s17DUtMbXaEwChO67HydRenRy8ijAwmNUwLZwfSH8w/s1600/D9+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">The final shot of
the trailer bed ready for the box to be lowered onto it. You can see the brackets on the back side of the main front beam that I will lag bolt to the box.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-HfBIyePFO6oJuNrIMSCxHXSnQb3EEC4yuILaEEepD80lYbU1kCVlQdOjHEdLZCAO8FySmvTwEoi0ak5VxcFezey9d0tFKUVPW0c2ucAjL4S6vth7lVvO4aP7sb3n8fTNQX9nAJK3Eg/s1600/D10+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-HfBIyePFO6oJuNrIMSCxHXSnQb3EEC4yuILaEEepD80lYbU1kCVlQdOjHEdLZCAO8FySmvTwEoi0ak5VxcFezey9d0tFKUVPW0c2ucAjL4S6vth7lVvO4aP7sb3n8fTNQX9nAJK3Eg/s1600/D10+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Lowered the box
onto the trailer bed and secured with the custom brackets I had
fabricated. This photo shows one of the brackets under the box that
attach it to the main beam at the tongue.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqXXSw_gwDljQSTQQ1IeL3PnP8kYiKtCi_rHSxLdbp6biLEFow0E9uDwLjZOQ3ykqm3Y33qp7rhmB2BAmFmwL_MOvgb9tTj4mCgetKToLz0UIjjHRjRzdTeniHTb-CIylvoFm1_YbXpQ/s1600/D11+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqXXSw_gwDljQSTQQ1IeL3PnP8kYiKtCi_rHSxLdbp6biLEFow0E9uDwLjZOQ3ykqm3Y33qp7rhmB2BAmFmwL_MOvgb9tTj4mCgetKToLz0UIjjHRjRzdTeniHTb-CIylvoFm1_YbXpQ/s1600/D11+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">OK, ready for a trial run
on the road to see if the shock brackets and axle hardware will hold up to the stress. I've loaded it with Darrel's glider and the
spring deflection looks like I'm in the ballpark at least.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrvwnYbmSGMCunF44PjJT2euQtM9UzFB864TtO8PB185Ni6nSiaow6jhoQpSNuTzeKQ8iOjHfunDL0BuA3lIvuwW3NDbzdTqkPp7EqiAZKpXPHLfJtES_ksIwpb_CKh_Jp24lKVmsLLQ/s1600/D12+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrvwnYbmSGMCunF44PjJT2euQtM9UzFB864TtO8PB185Ni6nSiaow6jhoQpSNuTzeKQ8iOjHfunDL0BuA3lIvuwW3NDbzdTqkPp7EqiAZKpXPHLfJtES_ksIwpb_CKh_Jp24lKVmsLLQ/s1600/D12+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Passed the test
after a 20 mile cruise. Hit some fairly good bumps to make sure the
shock system was functioning. I believe I could have set a bowl of
soup on the box and not spilled any.....really amazing how smooth it
rode over the bumps I hit. Even a railroad crossing at 50 mph was no
problem! Nothing came loose, nothing broke....I'm in business!</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Next up, I need
to finish the rear access door, the one I'll be opening to get the
glider in and out. I picked up 3 stainless piano hinges to mount on
the bottom.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlyeDuXEJadd2xyXoXGvoo0ha-pmu1HIGztvje5DPy9n9hLexYcRAM_GewFjNO3LKqpfEuTmZSTSoMSqFr3SAucVqTywTK6LFmdTErO_R_gRJUqGTU9ILBTELuOcIZjbIrEIHo5osqMA/s1600/D15+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlyeDuXEJadd2xyXoXGvoo0ha-pmu1HIGztvje5DPy9n9hLexYcRAM_GewFjNO3LKqpfEuTmZSTSoMSqFr3SAucVqTywTK6LFmdTErO_R_gRJUqGTU9ILBTELuOcIZjbIrEIHo5osqMA/s1600/D15+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><br /></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ridBAop6InxBbYLF0apn3l9aEOsoM9SY4gkPTR-JEuJEwzvbyKsPmQXZiaCyWe6ixdArH9Wq7wHRe-E6jdMPn8BnbbF3AtEfn_Jgo1e5se_hhkR6NDp898yfdSezuYT29akDHf3AcQ/s1600/D14+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3ridBAop6InxBbYLF0apn3l9aEOsoM9SY4gkPTR-JEuJEwzvbyKsPmQXZiaCyWe6ixdArH9Wq7wHRe-E6jdMPn8BnbbF3AtEfn_Jgo1e5se_hhkR6NDp898yfdSezuYT29akDHf3AcQ/s1600/D14+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
</div>
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">You can also see
the cables that holds the door in a horizontal position when open so
that I can easily pull the panels out of the box onto the open door
in prep for positioning them to carry over to a setup area. I also
found some nice adjustable cam buckle hardware that will make it
quick and easy to open and close and get a good (hopefully dustproof)
seal. These shots show the door in its closed position.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLL0830bpL087Lq32v8ckAUPRNpI4lRI3Cp9SdTDC0l7N7cdkAEbQZpScVG2Bs8rfN4aw1BNc5cacbd4WJUMwG2PjcMcXtVKxUdqfBHXeT3Mx9dp948sW2mp0t79iMF6PsGnt9A8x_oQ/s1600/D13+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLL0830bpL087Lq32v8ckAUPRNpI4lRI3Cp9SdTDC0l7N7cdkAEbQZpScVG2Bs8rfN4aw1BNc5cacbd4WJUMwG2PjcMcXtVKxUdqfBHXeT3Mx9dp948sW2mp0t79iMF6PsGnt9A8x_oQ/s1600/D13+(800x600).jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><br /></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgihJiAQKZJzGJRy8XR3PpZa5Qvd_skdJ-hgydlkWpwO89JHm4fA0iNjp1G-dBW672bVz2I6Yiiq6dgA6qcjuVXMbS-sDGbpu616cjw2FkW8LAAA81jJ-kNtQb75Cxlb_IUxo8Gy2PVkQ/s1600/D16(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgihJiAQKZJzGJRy8XR3PpZa5Qvd_skdJ-hgydlkWpwO89JHm4fA0iNjp1G-dBW672bVz2I6Yiiq6dgA6qcjuVXMbS-sDGbpu616cjw2FkW8LAAA81jJ-kNtQb75Cxlb_IUxo8Gy2PVkQ/s1600/D16(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Now all this
hardware needs to come off again in prep for painting the entire box
plus both front and rear access doors. I should probably put this
off until I can get the wings finished. I'll need to talk to the
tech advisor about fall weather affecting the covering process for
the wing panels. I could probably get away with more weather
variations painting the box than covering the wings so it would make sense to start on them first.</span></div>
</div>
</div>
jcoyierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14560463891091725092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6214318667395871924.post-40915062346589838352013-08-22T11:44:00.001-07:002017-09-10T12:13:30.605-07:00 #10 Trailer Modifications + Acquired Trainer Easy Riser<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<div align="LEFT" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">My
apologies for those following this blog. I really did not
intend to take such a long break from the project but summer got in
the way and after my fiasco with the covering process I was having a
hard time getting back into it. A significant part of this
project involves finishing the completely enclosed trailer shown in
the very first post. I completely removed the shelf system and relocated them to a position about 4" lower that made use of all the wasted headroom over the lower wing set left by the rib camber I had not taken into consideration originally. There was also a considerable amount of epoxy/ fiberglass repair that needed to be done and a
reconstruction/re-design of the end panels to accomplish a
weather-resistant seal on both ends. I also removed one of two
leafs in the suspension system (the photo is after I removed the small leaf) and added shocks on both sides to
smooth out the ride.</span></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">The
shock/springs came off a Harley Sportster mod job....still need to
see if they are too stiff.</span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq1ouAOBXHIf-S1x5RPCXlLAC8c3P5n7kuUp9zZ2QkDbNBbzC_IxphgqEmcqQQyO-ADBi9Cid4dShU-5OVdtDAPSb5g8g10DrJWpR-9ctRUbwtbmgQpUjfaHnQfExwe815syTQfvTHPw/s1600/IM44+(800x598).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq1ouAOBXHIf-S1x5RPCXlLAC8c3P5n7kuUp9zZ2QkDbNBbzC_IxphgqEmcqQQyO-ADBi9Cid4dShU-5OVdtDAPSb5g8g10DrJWpR-9ctRUbwtbmgQpUjfaHnQfExwe815syTQfvTHPw/s1600/IM44+(800x598).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDibxVL5mHfDJ3IcZEckUVw0yCtMzUVJ8v41c1jchcXrTLoZfXIUdwo0gwO3DiNHDgaRyaYuYClgWJl5gefTKR82mtkwAEJeYFPYDP50TxT-djsVFUtHCtovBXX_qeLJxd-zzRlz8V0Q/s1600/IM45+(800x598).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDibxVL5mHfDJ3IcZEckUVw0yCtMzUVJ8v41c1jchcXrTLoZfXIUdwo0gwO3DiNHDgaRyaYuYClgWJl5gefTKR82mtkwAEJeYFPYDP50TxT-djsVFUtHCtovBXX_qeLJxd-zzRlz8V0Q/s1600/IM45+(800x598).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">
<span style="color: black;"> <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Currently
I'm working on the bed that I will need to attach the box to and then
I'll try out the suspension system with a full load.</span></span></span></span></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">Mid
July I had an opportunity to inspect the covering of an Icarus II
that was done by someone I knew to be a “craftsman”. I figured
this would give me an idea what was possible in doing a good job of
covering this type of airframe. Here are a couple of shots showing
the leading edge area and the rib sag.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdfEiifw5989BTMpenTqO2O2Ty6mIKjIpm4d-Cv7pFJqrNoeuE-YgdswmLvsjdHEOymyG3MnFoiAGUfXLzf-HyTY9jvFye1BjmVTh_KlaUsqEnMpVGGPw_XWfiLQTV4us3wH2TDn771g/s1600/D1+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdfEiifw5989BTMpenTqO2O2Ty6mIKjIpm4d-Cv7pFJqrNoeuE-YgdswmLvsjdHEOymyG3MnFoiAGUfXLzf-HyTY9jvFye1BjmVTh_KlaUsqEnMpVGGPw_XWfiLQTV4us3wH2TDn771g/s1600/D1+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8823pn6Zq31KnZtQZCoLe9m0V7r55nyuz3ari0Bkc2DW9jV-JoNjC_qRxiNY2Hyr7WnUdvDJ1ApWeAj27fcONp8uzf0K0r3s44cd6ZxmElttigj_9OJiC9zIHSLONF762B-pJ59421Q/s1600/D2+(800x600).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8823pn6Zq31KnZtQZCoLe9m0V7r55nyuz3ari0Bkc2DW9jV-JoNjC_qRxiNY2Hyr7WnUdvDJ1ApWeAj27fcONp8uzf0K0r3s44cd6ZxmElttigj_9OJiC9zIHSLONF762B-pJ59421Q/s1600/D2+(800x600).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div align="LEFT" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">My
conclusion after looking at this was that it is possible to get a
very nice, wrinkle-free covering with very little inter-rib sag.
Keep in mind that nitrate dope keeps on shrinking years after it is
applied so the rib sag you see in this picture must have been near
zero when the glider was covered.</span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">In
July, I flew Fort Funston and happened to meet a former Easy
pilot who ended up giving me his Easy along with the car top box he
built to transport it. He flew it one last time in what I guessed to
be winds at the Fort over 20. He is taller than I am, maybe 6' and
probably has about 25-30 pounds over me and he had all he could do to
maintain control on the ground with the glider. I learned a lot by
watching him fly it. He used no rudder control on the ground (said
it really wasn't effective). He told me that pitch control is really
all you have plus body torque to get and keep the wings level while
ground handling. Once in the air flow he had a lot of pressure on
each hand placed forward on the twist grips to keep the nose down. He
could pull down a high wing by pushing down harder on the high side
but I never saw him do anything with the rudders. I had to come in
twice at his request before he launched to pull down a wing that he
could not pull down on his own. Once in the air it looked really </span></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">sweet.....easy,
comfortable flying position and an effortless landing. He did tell
me to start flying it before I put too much more time into my project
to make sure I am happy with it's performance. He said the sink rate
wasn't all that good. I expect I will do significantly better than
he did since I am quite a bit smaller that he is. He had it rigged
with a compressed air chute deployment system that a friend of his
was making at the time and he used it on that last flight. I will
need to rig my own system once I start flying it at high altitude
sites. Here's a shot of me on the way home from the Fort with Darrel
Robbins' Easy in it's car top case and my Comet on top.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitO1zfSlxfmz3dOkpJHpDzRH2UFHrfsfIsEOaNfi9CaK_JlmEPaNOHqWdO25gWMKBQ4XmTffB6DDZxM9ouHUVntz3GQ5UrbBFMgSxuwhIa2h9qoZtS9le7J7THCNnMtWqEhV6Rv6fAmg/s1600/IM50+(800x598).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitO1zfSlxfmz3dOkpJHpDzRH2UFHrfsfIsEOaNfi9CaK_JlmEPaNOHqWdO25gWMKBQ4XmTffB6DDZxM9ouHUVntz3GQ5UrbBFMgSxuwhIa2h9qoZtS9le7J7THCNnMtWqEhV6Rv6fAmg/s1600/IM50+(800x598).jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Here
are a couple video links to Darrel's final flight in it the day I
returned to Oregon.</span></span></span></div>
<br />
<div align="LEFT" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YPUnctxRzMk">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YPUnctxRzMk</a></span></span></span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oa3H-MeA738">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oa3H-MeA738</a></span></span></span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">Keep
in mind that the wind at launch was gusting over 20.</span></span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div align="LEFT" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">The
glider itself has some tears in the sail that I will repair before
taking it out. Here it is shown in it's new home (the box I built
with the reconfigured shelf mod I did in June).</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqmt5EzRWVGyjl0hhk5hBf4aVtz7nfkpCgqSTNB3XAeyJtyLNLEK73Wwavo0X0RfiIbtJh146dPS8cZY3sbjXzO6ZzBy5rhM9daTN1eKEFso275LJygNn0sptPf6oV_53KzL6uQVSUGA/s1600/IM51+(800x598).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqmt5EzRWVGyjl0hhk5hBf4aVtz7nfkpCgqSTNB3XAeyJtyLNLEK73Wwavo0X0RfiIbtJh146dPS8cZY3sbjXzO6ZzBy5rhM9daTN1eKEFso275LJygNn0sptPf6oV_53KzL6uQVSUGA/s1600/IM51+(800x598).jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></div>
<br />
<div align="LEFT" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">Had
over an hour talk with Brian Porter last night on the phone where we
discussed various topics including things to pay attention to in
building the glider and also tips on what he found worked for him in
flying it. Brian was one of the experts at flying rigid wing hang
gliders back in the day. He won the Escape Country meet with the
Easy Riser in 1976. He mentioned increasing the washout to a 2 5/8
inch block on the fabrication frame vs 2 ½ specified in the plans.
This was thought to improve the sink rate. I asked him about
covering and his comments indicated that he was able to pull a lot of
spanwise tension in the cloth without dog legging the frame. No tips
on how he was able to do this. It could be the fact that I tweaked
the frame when I crashed is setting mine up to dog leg with even
moderated spanwise tension. I am beginning to believe this is the
case. If true, then my only solution is to go light on both spanwise
tension and chordwise tension living with a few wrinkles or bend the
frame back to straight again. He said the glider is prone to pitch
sensitivity and will pop up and down in thermals.You get used to it
after a while. If properly built, the glider should trim out so that
once in the cage, feet on the leading edge, you should not be able to
stall the wing even with your back up against the rear of the cage
but this should put you at minimum sink right above a stall. You
have to let your feet down to get it to stall. You can see him drop
just one leg and then bring it up again as he adjusts his approach
for the spot landing in the video link I'm including below. He also
fabricated handles that he mounted 90 degrees off the twist grips to
aid in rudder deployment. He said you'd be surprised at </span></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">how
tiring it is to work the twist grips for an hour. The front negative
wires were replaced with 3/32 cable since they will see a large load
if the wing goes negative. The plans called for 1/16. He recounted
inspecting a wreckage where these cables broke when a fabric
detachment occurred and caused an involuntary tuck. Deploying both
rudders will pitch the nose up since they are above the center of
mass in the loaded air frame. This video link to YouTube shows
footage of Brian doing an approach where you can see how he moves his
legs and how the glider responds as he flies into ground effect and
flares.</span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHlsQOOt73Y">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHlsQOOt73Y</a></span></span></span></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div align="LEFT" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">The
current state of the project is both upper wing panels are ready to
cover. I have the pre-shrunk material and am winding down my
summertime activities. I hope to begin covering again in September.
My first priority is to finish the trailer so I can move the wings
when I finish them. Without the trailer being ready, I have no way to move the wing panels to and from the shop which is about 8 miles from my house (I have no wing frame at this shop). I am also anxious to repair the fabric on Darrel's glider so I
can begin to take it to the beach and learn how to fly it before
winter sets in.....decisions, decisions.</span></span></div>
</div>
</div>
jcoyierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14560463891091725092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6214318667395871924.post-10281178605542397192013-08-22T10:25:00.001-07:002017-09-10T12:15:27.148-07:00 #9 Covering & Sealing With The New Material<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Got
the new material (now thought to be the right stuff which turns out
to be a bad assumption) and re-started the covering process. The
leading edge glue line I had penciled in on the first attempt was
still visible so we used that to glue this bottom piece to. The
bottom “blanket” of fabric was then rough cut to span length
adding 6 inches of extra cloth off the tip and the root struts. The
factory edge was very smooth so we just glued it on beginning at the
middle and moving out toward the tip and then out to the root end.
We wet glued this leading edge line meaning we applied wet glue and
then immediately set the fabric in it. You can also pre-glue full
strength and then come back and use 50/50 MEK/glue and set the fabric
that way which I believe is what the plans spelled out. It's a real
guess as to how much spanwise tension to apply. Even the moderate
amount we applied created a spanwise sweep about 3 inches beginning
at that internal strut. There just isn't anything in the frame to
keep that from happening. After gluing the leading edge of the
bottom blanket, we applied glue to the bottom rib cap strips and then
came back and mashed the cloth into the half dried glue with 50/50
glue/MEK mix. Massaging this in gave fairly thorough and consistent
cloth penetration with no pull up or separation. The tip and root
ribs were wet glued since it was much easier to handle the cloth over
wet glue at the ends of the panel. There was some detailed trimming
to do at the root strut where the cloth has to be terminated. This
was done with the soldering gun blade tip and basically followed the
outer edge of the root gusset plate where the chafing tape stopped.
Here's a shot of the finished panel prior to detailing with the iron.
Most of the large area shrinking has already been done and you can
see the inter-rib sag that occurred as a result.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbaJilETgT98kDHnU_h7xET5kG-pjhpmHkYtXaCWbquCSxlsl-PkN0NySGd4sz_1ESw4Cr6RluctWXGTqGFHiWH1BKdyxDKloY-h_hB5caULISBtuw36_TzdQEQSLnf4YUiQe8E60XFg/s1600/D17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbaJilETgT98kDHnU_h7xET5kG-pjhpmHkYtXaCWbquCSxlsl-PkN0NySGd4sz_1ESw4Cr6RluctWXGTqGFHiWH1BKdyxDKloY-h_hB5caULISBtuw36_TzdQEQSLnf4YUiQe8E60XFg/s1600/D17.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw9F1armdjhxOJ134orie7hQwvRYy0h5LCBo5CMjgn_8H2WnPcHkGAz74SAIhV7HZ0SCsToitbUfd-_bG0c3IKvd0siWmWn_LGEAfOYCABDq8Mt3J2QHLdKxTxuE1rG5WFpawsHM4ZCQ/s1600/D1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw9F1armdjhxOJ134orie7hQwvRYy0h5LCBo5CMjgn_8H2WnPcHkGAz74SAIhV7HZ0SCsToitbUfd-_bG0c3IKvd0siWmWn_LGEAfOYCABDq8Mt3J2QHLdKxTxuE1rG5WFpawsHM4ZCQ/s1600/D1.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="text-align: left;">The
sag measured nearly an inch in the worst bays. I released the
leading edge seam on the worst bays and relaxed it back to where
there was only about ½ inch overlap left and gained back a lot of
the airfoil.</span></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"> At this point I am getting
the feeling that there is just too much frame distortion to expect
the panels to fit together well enough to set up or fold down not to
mention the inter-rib sag which looks severe to me but I continue
with the sealing step anyway. You can easily see the dog leg sweep on the leading edge caused by the fabric tension. It starts right where you'd expect it to....at the internal diagonal rib and out to the tip. </span>I
took the time to do some detail work most would skip such as these
patches over the gusset holes. Even though I did a fair job of
cutting the gusset slits, these patches really clean up each gusset
position. I drew the pattern out using a drafting compass and cut it out using a pinking shears.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2kYBTF2dH6KFBgIcfARSxG4lUgTwIs58KfCdHxc0FbSeN4wdXhL9uBFMLaPbbtJ9dgfPW9J5atF2t-vdISlLrmoj_7P_yTwoBo-wv3TZqEBLmfWhuvbcNTB2mP5X_TIDymRLqDzQSXQ/s1600/D3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2kYBTF2dH6KFBgIcfARSxG4lUgTwIs58KfCdHxc0FbSeN4wdXhL9uBFMLaPbbtJ9dgfPW9J5atF2t-vdISlLrmoj_7P_yTwoBo-wv3TZqEBLmfWhuvbcNTB2mP5X_TIDymRLqDzQSXQ/s1600/D3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht4-cKnkpDVLNXaRA_H9dNMUmVmr_ijjD3GvqLPeA3H69ROJ_OTvtnefsXZXAkk2tleSMJ9TCkSSQ-nMK8MfYukcHfX3B1B_uGguhOZkJWuoLXIt4iCfitUDc0WNMQoOfcwMuPZgKhqg/s1600/D4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht4-cKnkpDVLNXaRA_H9dNMUmVmr_ijjD3GvqLPeA3H69ROJ_OTvtnefsXZXAkk2tleSMJ9TCkSSQ-nMK8MfYukcHfX3B1B_uGguhOZkJWuoLXIt4iCfitUDc0WNMQoOfcwMuPZgKhqg/s1600/D4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Starting
the sealant coat (Poly Brush in this case).</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy8rH50Tgg728mjmKYBfeiVp6m6Rz5CJSDwOy9Ie6x_WmmOCvN0IATCo4TioyOjUHT6ghoUeKxR_L4Im2XJPCaGMGDto_GIGBR7XRrSDEm8UwyWnG_SirP_XybGhPNH3Vb2IIOt0mF5g/s1600/D5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy8rH50Tgg728mjmKYBfeiVp6m6Rz5CJSDwOy9Ie6x_WmmOCvN0IATCo4TioyOjUHT6ghoUeKxR_L4Im2XJPCaGMGDto_GIGBR7XRrSDEm8UwyWnG_SirP_XybGhPNH3Vb2IIOt0mF5g/s1600/D5.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">The
gusset patch after sealing. It really did look better with the patch
than without.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Y2Z_wdXnJX4NWxpPoEltbFCzNdjYyES7nVvYgwN_VoXx-IK-iW_N_jTSKiQuXyssfnEvCFGopo9qd1whisyUIhrAH9_d4Qh1svOmUARo2MsizU6WRCjSML0QxMzh_Rdhiaxjj1Jbhw/s1600/D8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Y2Z_wdXnJX4NWxpPoEltbFCzNdjYyES7nVvYgwN_VoXx-IK-iW_N_jTSKiQuXyssfnEvCFGopo9qd1whisyUIhrAH9_d4Qh1svOmUARo2MsizU6WRCjSML0QxMzh_Rdhiaxjj1Jbhw/s1600/D8.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">A
shot of the bottom of the panel with the first coat of sealant
complete.</span></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-tAS67zt9KQGJh9GZmTep4O36txV6NFrFNQs-LUMsusI03p9bLlD9D1eeM8Li_e6lgfGn2PjJ1aLIdti6cpIoEn4GSEhjv1dUopvaffUrIwpvauLmyHRZDpvv-XQUWsipRUnTF61UPA/s1600/D6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-tAS67zt9KQGJh9GZmTep4O36txV6NFrFNQs-LUMsusI03p9bLlD9D1eeM8Li_e6lgfGn2PjJ1aLIdti6cpIoEn4GSEhjv1dUopvaffUrIwpvauLmyHRZDpvv-XQUWsipRUnTF61UPA/s1600/D6.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></span></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">Top
of the same panel at the same state. I could have used clear Poly
Brush but felt being able to see where I had been was more important
which is why it is rust colored (their standard sealant color). I
planned to paint the wing so this would all be under a couple coats of
paint when I'm finished.</span></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQZln4iI6JrC8vWPEY_n8WmD4rdZwApvf26T8YzrMw_a4M8qo4z5QCONHuBdV4ydgTKO1zhqx8tiL-dOw157MUWZxjQMNkdnwsYo0NHAlKAl5Oh5z7IwnldaAoc-jhthm8lSmjHlA3nA/s1600/D12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQZln4iI6JrC8vWPEY_n8WmD4rdZwApvf26T8YzrMw_a4M8qo4z5QCONHuBdV4ydgTKO1zhqx8tiL-dOw157MUWZxjQMNkdnwsYo0NHAlKAl5Oh5z7IwnldaAoc-jhthm8lSmjHlA3nA/s1600/D12.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">After
all this, I finally verify that the original plans and kit for this
glider involved applying pre-shrunk polyester dress lining material
using standard aircraft fabric cement (Super Seam) and nitrate dope
referred to now days as the Ceconite process (except for the fabric
of course). All my effort and hours of detailing the spars using the
small iron was just practice. I stripped the airframe and place an
order for pre-shrunk polyester for the material used up during the
first attempt at covering. I won't get back to working on recovering
until September most likely. The next post will cover some of the
things I'm working on this summer that are directly related to the
project including reconfiguring the trailer, inspecting an old Icarus
cover job and inheriting a completely finished and flyable Easy Riser
during my annual trip to fly at Fort Funston near San Francisco.</span></span></span></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><br /></span></div>
<br /></div>
</div>
jcoyierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14560463891091725092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6214318667395871924.post-56802068467367185022013-06-27T09:26:00.000-07:002017-09-10T12:17:33.371-07:00 #8 Covering & Sealing Using PolyFiber Fabric - oops!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">The
covering supplies arrived. Here is a shot of nearly $1000 worth of
chemicals including the glue, the sealer, the UV paint and the top
coat paint plus the thinner for these products.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7yY5nmf49Og_YmMGBLzHwnvEiLcps4UXMugV0ptquBLXmxYKm667n3_USCBrfivjTBdE5O8mrvaehBCGC0bqPKzO4ppo46Pan_NkPQl2j33Qud1pFL1kDr4bBVZRNJN2QRrgejKZb6g/s1600/D2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7yY5nmf49Og_YmMGBLzHwnvEiLcps4UXMugV0ptquBLXmxYKm667n3_USCBrfivjTBdE5O8mrvaehBCGC0bqPKzO4ppo46Pan_NkPQl2j33Qud1pFL1kDr4bBVZRNJN2QRrgejKZb6g/s1600/D2.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I
hope to have some left over that I can sell to the EAA chapter here.
They go through this stuff like water. Decided to have the Tech
Counselor help me do the upper left wing panel and then I'd take it
from there. Started by putting anti chafing tape on all the
potential rub points on the frame that would have fabric contact. I
had taken a stab at what I thought would be adequate for taping over
sharp areas. Not good enough per my Tech Counselor Ernie. He showed
me how this needed to be done. No real tricks here, just had to
think about how to best cover the topography with as little tape as
possible. Here's a shot of the wing panel after I finished re-taping
the root rib gussets. The rest of the panel shows what I thought
would be adequate. I had to remove all of what I had done and re-do
it right.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr54z_84iPfNpl0dyl-t4s_kdR5ICS4_yMzt17XkGNB_Y3UJkRsJiBUW6CSwjEQR5AyaM-UK_s69AxBNmR7Yzg-NwlCuZ8-jeWYQU7F_Zawk1fMV-b7DK8wGmp7rxL1HqlPe-DGp3jjQ/s1600/D5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr54z_84iPfNpl0dyl-t4s_kdR5ICS4_yMzt17XkGNB_Y3UJkRsJiBUW6CSwjEQR5AyaM-UK_s69AxBNmR7Yzg-NwlCuZ8-jeWYQU7F_Zawk1fMV-b7DK8wGmp7rxL1HqlPe-DGp3jjQ/s1600/D5.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Here
are some examples of what the anti chafing taping should look like if
you are doing a good job of it.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHFe30baGsRkf9m2dXAFdrSPGoSF8wiBQ8DH7C8JnE3B7-pqwA6m7dDS8jVwXyvBN4U6SNdTQU5a0xvomWHPP3X7XR7RuO54fdNgs22FzRps3HXJw7JAJpxl5-CJlr3hblo1saUjegLw/s1600/D12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHFe30baGsRkf9m2dXAFdrSPGoSF8wiBQ8DH7C8JnE3B7-pqwA6m7dDS8jVwXyvBN4U6SNdTQU5a0xvomWHPP3X7XR7RuO54fdNgs22FzRps3HXJw7JAJpxl5-CJlr3hblo1saUjegLw/s1600/D12.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ntjqIkY01Yx3j4Yghlw6mXkd5l7gU3zVhQjynWTQamFujLLffNsXxnviLnBSbQTmLxmfNxQiXGKWR99Vrggor9SFPYNe4ybgA2aDAseLcqeO1fXPiL_j6dmewBsHqNt4g3alFqwRnQ/s1600/D13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ntjqIkY01Yx3j4Yghlw6mXkd5l7gU3zVhQjynWTQamFujLLffNsXxnviLnBSbQTmLxmfNxQiXGKWR99Vrggor9SFPYNe4ybgA2aDAseLcqeO1fXPiL_j6dmewBsHqNt4g3alFqwRnQ/s1600/D13.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">The
next step was to apply the leading edge filament tape. I used the
directions specified in the original plans that call for three
span </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgUvUQs1YOfwjzNzzq_HAMnLGCE4bTRqqWVvUsGmTEkuaeiW7IoZjlMauzIrn-HwalqKC8TzPvDnAPPfclh9PBIlM6eRO_R2FXYXyQC2KOCr0PBV07L3V5VP8omOSv3TPeAybtiC5Ebw/s1600/D6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgUvUQs1YOfwjzNzzq_HAMnLGCE4bTRqqWVvUsGmTEkuaeiW7IoZjlMauzIrn-HwalqKC8TzPvDnAPPfclh9PBIlM6eRO_R2FXYXyQC2KOCr0PBV07L3V5VP8omOSv3TPeAybtiC5Ebw/s1600/D6.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div>
<span style="color: black;">wise lengths spaced 3 inch center-to-center from the leading
edge of 1.5” filament tape. The purpose is to help minimize the
fabric droop between ribs when the fabric is tightened up during the
ironing process and the coating process. </span>After
the filament tape is applied it is really easy to bump it with a hand
or something on the table or saw horse it's setting on and fold the
tape onto itself. After you do this it is really hard to separate
the tape.
This happened multiple times to me during the process and each time
I had to use MEK solvent on a paper towel to redissolve the tape glue
so that I could pull it apart again. I could not completely fix an
area once this happened but decided it wasn't bad enough to redo it.
This shot shows it prior to several accidental collapses that had to be separated.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUqvGjwBYS6GVTr4EWOrIzZPHevIBahujRM3vvxYt6DHK2gZdzvauzCcEZvgo0PITbNp0jsQesTTqDYSiVWo6i-xNkzKXzXw3C-yhNAWrBwDXBoAagmh8I_UrvuujsBLX9dt6jzwUxKA/s1600/D7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUqvGjwBYS6GVTr4EWOrIzZPHevIBahujRM3vvxYt6DHK2gZdzvauzCcEZvgo0PITbNp0jsQesTTqDYSiVWo6i-xNkzKXzXw3C-yhNAWrBwDXBoAagmh8I_UrvuujsBLX9dt6jzwUxKA/s1600/D7.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Next,
my Tech Counselor highly recommended I cross brace the ribs midway
between the trailing edge and the last row of filament tape. He
supplied me with the approved material which was 1/2” wide cloth
tape designed specifically for this. I don't think this was
necessary since the filament tape and gluing the fabric to the ribs
really doesn't allow for any movement of the ribs after the covering
is complete anyway but I went ahead as instructed and did it. This
shot shows me finishing up the cross bracing tape.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC3MdcBxNW8fUu7ke3Sct_AJ006t9PNPd_yAOY5hm3u1j-Jv_QHYNRA1AjY_3wJzO0X2XT9TX_KuNTPaYWF8PA_ecauiP3EanxlONqIWq3jg0nWGYPeEdY8PUQgNHdVR26dU0FznOX7Q/s1600/D8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC3MdcBxNW8fUu7ke3Sct_AJ006t9PNPd_yAOY5hm3u1j-Jv_QHYNRA1AjY_3wJzO0X2XT9TX_KuNTPaYWF8PA_ecauiP3EanxlONqIWq3jg0nWGYPeEdY8PUQgNHdVR26dU0FznOX7Q/s1600/D8.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">We
got to a dead end here as soon as we had tacked down the fabric on
the bottom of this wing panel. We were noticing a reluctance of this
material to shrink. It became obvious the more we tried to shrink it
that it was pre-shrunk polyester cloth....something you might get at
a fabric store. When polyester cloth is pre-shrunk, there is about
10% of shrink left in the cloth and it takes a hot iron to get that
last 10% (something around 350 F). This won't work for covering
material on a "conventional"airframe because you want all of that shrink margin to get a decent,
tight and smooth covered surface. However, this is not a "conventional" airframe, far from it. The Easy Riser airframe is extremely fragile and weak relative to the techniques and materials used on stiffer, more constrained airframes. My tech counselor has had no experience with this type of frame so I'm back to re-reading the instructions sheets. Once I re-read them it was apparent that pre-shrunk material was, in fact, what UFM used to cover the Easy with. I had saved some scraps of material that I had from the initial covering I did years ago and put them to the iron set at about 300F. There was almost no more shrinking going on at that temp. The plans mention a very crude reference to shrinking once the cloth is in place. It says to set the iron on "wool" and go for it. You will know if it's too hot because it will melt the material. So.......the Poly Fiber manual talks about 350F being the highest temp you ever want to take polyester cloth. Beyond this, the fibers actually begin to relax and then finally melt outright. My conclusion here is that the original kit cloth was, in fact, pre-shrunk polyester fabric which weighs in at about 1.5 oz/sq yd, significantly lighter than the lightest material you can buy from aircraft supply shops. The method UFM describes in their plans basically talks about hand stretching the cloth as best you can and gluing it down while holding tension. Had I read the plan instructions more closely and tested the scraps I had kept from the original material, I could have saved myself a lot of labor and expense. Although, because my tech counselor assumed he was dealing with a standard covering process, he applied the fabric loosely when we glued the pre-shrunk material so it could not have been salvaged as the bracket holes were consequently in the wrong place. The photos that follow show the various steps I will now be doing over again with pre-shrunk material.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1UoUrfExAcB_aZBk7WZLq8bkVe3gaBXVLIVD86auVGEv0XrDSs5AXqKmGxzkvHVAXEXzKonI5sec7MGWXQZi6IyW5xT4iLPaGTW_-nIcDiX7MA8P1LmffM47jZnLXit8vdSaVS-l9sQ/s1600/D11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1UoUrfExAcB_aZBk7WZLq8bkVe3gaBXVLIVD86auVGEv0XrDSs5AXqKmGxzkvHVAXEXzKonI5sec7MGWXQZi6IyW5xT4iLPaGTW_-nIcDiX7MA8P1LmffM47jZnLXit8vdSaVS-l9sQ/s1600/D11.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">This
shot shows the cuts made for one of the strut gussets using a Weller
soldering gun with the blade tip. This was slick and was right on
the mark since we made a template pattern before making the cuts.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisBl3P1d74XAXrBb5OEHZFL8byaa8Vv6OsQQl1S5EQY-eTrLJgDxtbKZJrI5CF2jHLZdgHxVO6i_YOPgbGdWY35UrvqLvIeILVUixFc8xAbIXHHbP5G10qEW2sEyI-bFsRzJ2eCYoLVQ/s1600/D1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisBl3P1d74XAXrBb5OEHZFL8byaa8Vv6OsQQl1S5EQY-eTrLJgDxtbKZJrI5CF2jHLZdgHxVO6i_YOPgbGdWY35UrvqLvIeILVUixFc8xAbIXHHbP5G10qEW2sEyI-bFsRzJ2eCYoLVQ/s1600/D1.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Here's
what happens when you don't make a template and get in a hurry.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiksLQePGSW-B5ckQDUIzLjeKvT30vrA_KyK_iIenft1Lx3vE50H6qF_VGfVEriNpCEdaVEgbh_tRJQOCIEoAxlzBAwv0l8BSPZrxW6QUWLj7dcYU_LDvG_K3SE1nboaISn9yY5lC_GDA/s1600/D4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiksLQePGSW-B5ckQDUIzLjeKvT30vrA_KyK_iIenft1Lx3vE50H6qF_VGfVEriNpCEdaVEgbh_tRJQOCIEoAxlzBAwv0l8BSPZrxW6QUWLj7dcYU_LDvG_K3SE1nboaISn9yY5lC_GDA/s1600/D4.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">A
shot showing the rough tension prior to the heat shrinking. This one
is the root bay....notice how loose it is. With standard unshrunk
polyester, this will shrink up tighter than a drum if you take it all
the way up to 350 degrees F.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilqEIWmfGsF_ZBWq0xZWG984aiwvxC-JtMA5VSwv-IvM9mONLMvfmdBwp1A07bHy8n4P6w4-hxzrUBoe0Z1mKrfevEUYQisbMe0ERuj8WcPJtdYOea1ewRFEQINmLLSFVnjoa4Qfo9Yg/s1600/D5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilqEIWmfGsF_ZBWq0xZWG984aiwvxC-JtMA5VSwv-IvM9mONLMvfmdBwp1A07bHy8n4P6w4-hxzrUBoe0Z1mKrfevEUYQisbMe0ERuj8WcPJtdYOea1ewRFEQINmLLSFVnjoa4Qfo9Yg/s1600/D5.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Here
is the Tech Counselor starting to heat shrink the fabric. Notice how
loose he strung it. His assumption was that it was standard,
unshrunk polyester fabric and very soon after this concluded it was
pre-shrunk fabric that I would have to strip and toss.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG3DYX28pdP_5v301EaAMPZrRG9WQXY-xqfWtC51HLTjJUc0T8yPNgn1gvJYNynCTk5wTPZLpKjzcFeKCdQUA7L-q7R-T0efQtWxr9uwrQMnIzM_x4wqIa5YPa7olNm4ezsn2m_n0DxQ/s1600/D9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG3DYX28pdP_5v301EaAMPZrRG9WQXY-xqfWtC51HLTjJUc0T8yPNgn1gvJYNynCTk5wTPZLpKjzcFeKCdQUA7L-q7R-T0efQtWxr9uwrQMnIzM_x4wqIa5YPa7olNm4ezsn2m_n0DxQ/s1600/D9.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">The
next report will take me back to the beginning of the covering
process where I will use standard uncertified light fabric material which I ordered from Spencer
Aircraft Supply in Washington.....another ~$400 receipt. I will then discover the airframe is way too weak to support the standard shrinking process and soon be right back to pre-shrunk polyester (basically dress lining material).</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
</div>
</div>
jcoyierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14560463891091725092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6214318667395871924.post-28153567348985855412013-06-13T23:28:00.002-07:002017-09-10T12:21:40.249-07:00 #7 Pre-Rig<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">When
I found that neither set of wings would rig up with the original
cabling and not have the rudders binding significantly, I realized I
would have to re-rig the entire glider.....meaning I needed to cut
ALL the rigging cables and remove them. I ended up doing this using
a cutoff wheel on my ¼ inch angle grinder. I had to really be
careful not to nick the brackets or tubing but it worked OK. I cut
off one end of each negative wire cable leaving a cable bushing on
the other end. I used two of these pieces, each with a cable bushing
on the end and a cut cable end on the other and clamped them together
using the electrical clamp nuts called for in the rigging part of the
instructions. I end up with an adjustable cable with bushings on
both ends that I used to hold the wing from folding down while I
checked the upper and lower spars for parallel alignment.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBF4CUArZNe7Nj0xPLqMzmF1hyKSf387_bQ2-A48xfl0tOG-2fMp1o1XapgsDtWD_n_rlAi_FSb_SJNwZNpUKcG8mgaeSqu0drFThVe3YjcklZirYx2whSvGcDFbP6ufKlpc1qr8tOfA/s1600/D4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBF4CUArZNe7Nj0xPLqMzmF1hyKSf387_bQ2-A48xfl0tOG-2fMp1o1XapgsDtWD_n_rlAi_FSb_SJNwZNpUKcG8mgaeSqu0drFThVe3YjcklZirYx2whSvGcDFbP6ufKlpc1qr8tOfA/s1600/D4.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">The
photo below shows the right wing set up on the fixture and if you
look close you can make out the plumb bob off the leading edge wing
joiner on the left hand side of the photo where I am checking for
parallel alignment of upper and lower leading edge spars and also the
14” stagger.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjZtwAoOblw1O1toXu88JCynQtlk-2WrU5E3HSt5p65C1ubHNi0d2cI5EIjwOhmENknBdQUAiiRk9uWhSde31qxnRJrkCQjSteyhH_6CQhJO9y4VLvsHShx8m3M1e9Pdlo7q32p7lDrQ/s1600/D6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjZtwAoOblw1O1toXu88JCynQtlk-2WrU5E3HSt5p65C1ubHNi0d2cI5EIjwOhmENknBdQUAiiRk9uWhSde31qxnRJrkCQjSteyhH_6CQhJO9y4VLvsHShx8m3M1e9Pdlo7q32p7lDrQ/s1600/D6.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">You
may also have noticed the tape on the floor which I used to mark all
the reference points called out for on the pre-rigging sheet in the
plans. Here is a shot of what I mentioned can happen in the last
post if you don't watch which bolt you're using where (permanently
compressed strut).</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicPxZHHTGHhyW8Txo0gUnbNBmh6w7JSVwIQgwrQaTHLOiu_RaThuFY1MsOaTzwApuZKsmfeHeLmb6VCrOt3vpu3bCsyFAYCwhhhJNkIiOmZ3p5RrWikM6SFgvmfj9nBlXhaqhsNb1BaQ/s1600/D7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicPxZHHTGHhyW8Txo0gUnbNBmh6w7JSVwIQgwrQaTHLOiu_RaThuFY1MsOaTzwApuZKsmfeHeLmb6VCrOt3vpu3bCsyFAYCwhhhJNkIiOmZ3p5RrWikM6SFgvmfj9nBlXhaqhsNb1BaQ/s1600/D7.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">I
have done a bit of sourcing research trying to find the part shown in
this photo that is used throughout the Easy Riser rigging brackets.
It is called a rivet nut and various other names depending on the
manufacturer. The longest barrel length I could find anywhere to
date is approximately 0.5 inches. Somewhere, Larry Mauro apparently
sourced one with a barrel length of nearly 3/4” which doesn't seem
to exist anywhere I've tried looking. He may have had it special
order. The ½ inch ones which are readily available, are used on this glider frame in the
brackets with only a single cable attached as shown here.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7vj2YjuHGnpmSSjJa8dW5MPSO6dXvt__AQWcDOf8HKDw_wh-ltMHC_UhHMWfI02sl-E04I4uPHNXvfQ7dNeJ07cDQVGufwKuHgvCO-Spu0Dg7kclpwWWWS97F4g49qkCHofNe2G7eOA/s1600/D1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7vj2YjuHGnpmSSjJa8dW5MPSO6dXvt__AQWcDOf8HKDw_wh-ltMHC_UhHMWfI02sl-E04I4uPHNXvfQ7dNeJ07cDQVGufwKuHgvCO-Spu0Dg7kclpwWWWS97F4g49qkCHofNe2G7eOA/s1600/D1.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"><br /></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">One
of my goals in this project is to find sources for all the parts
needed to make an Easy Riser from the ground up so I would like to
find the longer rivet nut even if I have to find a manufacturer
willing to make a custom run of them. Below is a shot showing the longer rivet nut with the half cable bushing which is
what requires the barrel length to be nearly 3/4” long since a
second cable bushing will need to slip onto the end of it for the
quick disconnect negative wire attach point during set up.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2oJ6NaQKKCc6hrmUXceXGNTGqovD_ICfm4aiRUhEJ9b1bsOK64WKdq7OXR95wdsVWQ3C-Y-JHnrWaeTxZE2_v-RVsbarRM8YfnaaZNzYQemK4u1xI4VcScOtFhehy9FlK0TIynUj8QQ/s1600/D3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2oJ6NaQKKCc6hrmUXceXGNTGqovD_ICfm4aiRUhEJ9b1bsOK64WKdq7OXR95wdsVWQ3C-Y-JHnrWaeTxZE2_v-RVsbarRM8YfnaaZNzYQemK4u1xI4VcScOtFhehy9FlK0TIynUj8QQ/s1600/D3.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">That
completes the pre-rigging. Next, I need to wrap all seven ribs on
the upper left wing panel using the knot shown in the original
addendum the plans included for rib stitching (which I also plan to
do after attaching the fabric). Wrapping the entire length of the rib keeps the cap strip from pulling off the foam core. This is probably most important in rough landings where the wing spars might collide with a stationary object whereas rib stitching functions to keep the fabric attached to the ribs. The other three panels I had already
finished rib wrapping from the original build. This shot shows the left upper
wing panel propped up on saw horses ready for rib wrapping.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3TiQtD0S87kE5DLUCjTShhyM9SrNwxQVbESHV9HpNOY36tU_sY73F3nIJcype5ksVsld8bQ-TJI8-8OY1SLx-c3oM131Ey9vItkgM_Q7iDY83eVuzpofis1hiJbHlklTv2PR-LzzbMA/s1600/D8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3TiQtD0S87kE5DLUCjTShhyM9SrNwxQVbESHV9HpNOY36tU_sY73F3nIJcype5ksVsld8bQ-TJI8-8OY1SLx-c3oM131Ey9vItkgM_Q7iDY83eVuzpofis1hiJbHlklTv2PR-LzzbMA/s1600/D8.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Somewhere
I thought I remembered the instructions including wrapping the ribs
but could find no reference to it anywhere in the large plan drawings
or the rib stitching addendum. I used the same knot shown in the
addendum to wrap the ribs. Here is a shot of the last knot being
tied on the final rib. I later decide this is totally redundant since the entire glider will have to be rib stitched after covering and sealing anyway which will accomplish the same thing.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlc5uAqMRoKWhC8q5RtGAUpg_kibn8Pk4Jb_U0OlrB8cRh3pVAvLi04n5qwuWOU3iLw_q3UCummedby1QeBPV4yM9A1mXMAFyCjfv3Yi6_9qnjNBxXJjBuf0PEmj86vdWVZ6HXRkq_JA/s1600/D8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlc5uAqMRoKWhC8q5RtGAUpg_kibn8Pk4Jb_U0OlrB8cRh3pVAvLi04n5qwuWOU3iLw_q3UCummedby1QeBPV4yM9A1mXMAFyCjfv3Yi6_9qnjNBxXJjBuf0PEmj86vdWVZ6HXRkq_JA/s1600/D8.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">Ordered
the fabric glue to do a test on the frame with the old glue intact to
see if it would be compatible with the new glue. The tests were good
which means it will not be necessary to completely strip all the
spars of the old glue. The old glue was Super Seam that came with
the original kit. This was really good news since stripping all that
glue would have been a real job.</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: black;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkfkA9_CPNi432nMSCbntKbDF7Itvej0X8GI2N6hlZAOmp9v6CwvhYznKbBVAUPjBdQFXAkSJ7e-JqTnwLIEOayfui_Z-DMqmbmBe5CzzNe4b7yG4LReT0fKnb1BEjqGF8AtA_PVAT7w/s1600/D7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkfkA9_CPNi432nMSCbntKbDF7Itvej0X8GI2N6hlZAOmp9v6CwvhYznKbBVAUPjBdQFXAkSJ7e-JqTnwLIEOayfui_Z-DMqmbmBe5CzzNe4b7yG4LReT0fKnb1BEjqGF8AtA_PVAT7w/s1600/D7.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;">The
local EAA chapter has a Tech Counselor that has volunteered to help
me attach the fabric to the first wing and shrink it. This requires
me to get the trailer ready to haul wing panels so I have been
spending most of the time working on that, hence, not much progress
on the wings. My next post will include the material order list for
the covering supplies I will need through the top coat paint.</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<span style="color: black;"> </span>
</div>
</div>
jcoyierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14560463891091725092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6214318667395871924.post-82739223184814416122013-05-29T16:09:00.002-07:002017-09-10T12:24:37.947-07:00 #6 Repair and Prep For Pre-Rig<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Drilling and
riveting the upper wing was easy because both spars were new and had
no holes so I just drilled using the gussets as my hole template.
When I went to align the lower wing on the fixture, I found that the
impact had tweeked the lower panel enough to where I felt I needed to
move the internal strut location to reduce the chord spacing back to
it's original. I decided to accomplish this by moving the LE gusset
location outboard toward the tip by ¼ inch. I cut new LE gusset
plates that were longer than the originals so that I could still use
the three original rivet holes in the spar. This shot shows the
rivet holes I must hit exactly if I want to avoid ordering new
material to fabricate a new diagonal strut and also the pre-bent LE
spar (big incentive here to find a way!).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6nAvSXIUnbSdLEpKVcqpH3Uxq2LuLnrvtb0V64VPxFentQdndmFrKOBTUVb-lIlUU33Gj0bU4z6U3zSAFwa1-RiTMIKaMa7_MrREibGre6_JnFfvX91pdrcNgERafiNZRn5EF4_KPmA/s1600/D6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6nAvSXIUnbSdLEpKVcqpH3Uxq2LuLnrvtb0V64VPxFentQdndmFrKOBTUVb-lIlUU33Gj0bU4z6U3zSAFwa1-RiTMIKaMa7_MrREibGre6_JnFfvX91pdrcNgERafiNZRn5EF4_KPmA/s1600/D6.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Here's the new
gusset in place (now hiding where I need to drill the rivet holes)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsENe6E3ChaZMydtdDToc9AgKKUEWOl6qBi9lnCxvyiWXamXi78HHIPVZoFigTiynXRPM7-8a2fE2rvHuD-vCiLUXtF4ysSYwvo6wdjk1U6nLnEZ6jzIv0s-72LvxYyvIzxd0_NQq75Q/s1600/D4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsENe6E3ChaZMydtdDToc9AgKKUEWOl6qBi9lnCxvyiWXamXi78HHIPVZoFigTiynXRPM7-8a2fE2rvHuD-vCiLUXtF4ysSYwvo6wdjk1U6nLnEZ6jzIv0s-72LvxYyvIzxd0_NQq75Q/s1600/D4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
In order to drill
and exactly hit these old rivet holes in both the lower wing spars
and internal diagonal strut (which I am re-using since they were not
bent) I had to find a way to do this using the newly made larger
gussets. There is a tool they call a “hole finder” which I
borrowed from one of the EAA members but I found it to be too, thick
and stiff to get under the gusset without moving it out of position.
I made my own out of much thinner material I cut out of some scrap
sheet metal with a metal shears. I put two pop
rivets in the one end forming a long tweezers-like tool. On the hole
finding end, I clamped the ends together and drilled a rivet hole
through both and then installed a rivet into one of these holes only,
the other hole ends up on top of the gusset and acts as my drill
template.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvvhEf0sVNWe1bzBX25PxwkNFjAa-27yYhr-uIAxbkLoMitdSu4Vx07-gF9ojJy7YeSXr_LYNlvFthIiKQMhShEV6jCJXlLdY7SAGktqR4w3HiuYMI26DuB_g2owoEOZ-ynYlNR_Rx2A/s1600/D5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvvhEf0sVNWe1bzBX25PxwkNFjAa-27yYhr-uIAxbkLoMitdSu4Vx07-gF9ojJy7YeSXr_LYNlvFthIiKQMhShEV6jCJXlLdY7SAGktqR4w3HiuYMI26DuB_g2owoEOZ-ynYlNR_Rx2A/s1600/D5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
This next shot
shows the finder ready to insert into an existing hole.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv3xOhviDMTH7WzNgQni5eDhTuSdQmzefiAhrJmYAj44W4jVAbO7aJkI6GiymrdPNeWntSQawOQO5-b5oSJGJeF9PmAFexzEEffovFZBuG6ciexOKs4mqVvSJYRyElVJzbEx5R8x5F1w/s1600/D7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv3xOhviDMTH7WzNgQni5eDhTuSdQmzefiAhrJmYAj44W4jVAbO7aJkI6GiymrdPNeWntSQawOQO5-b5oSJGJeF9PmAFexzEEffovFZBuG6ciexOKs4mqVvSJYRyElVJzbEx5R8x5F1w/s1600/D7.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Once this is done,
I slip the gusset into position as shown here and mark the hole
location for drilling.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP50KXnF0BMXwwVtDMua6QWbnPxgu9ZxdQFwxHe1bKxIgD_1Rvcy-P8hOKdnvpLcRAZbzxvPGH06svON9V9wjB3g5bkfe6IpaWMF4ciP638Ee3NUZUaeOLDXLfqMKwKmtY6HZ6zzqu7Q/s1600/D9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP50KXnF0BMXwwVtDMua6QWbnPxgu9ZxdQFwxHe1bKxIgD_1Rvcy-P8hOKdnvpLcRAZbzxvPGH06svON9V9wjB3g5bkfe6IpaWMF4ciP638Ee3NUZUaeOLDXLfqMKwKmtY6HZ6zzqu7Q/s1600/D9.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
A word about other
tools...... I wore out a pop rivet gun and the only symptom apparent
was I started having more and more rivet stems break off leaving a
long stem sticking out of the piece but not long enough for the tool
to grip and finish the pull. I then had to break off the tail and
drill out the rivet and install another rivet. Here's the old
tool....</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKwLEkD1_gSbkzz6baUDeiR0VOxABYa8IwysqROLjACL5WKPZUAQHMtezHnaN0I29xE8D_K8NsQIaTkgYTZ1yBlgytlRP3zjqnzHTNl-l5agHZrt2zFxXJM28SeqvCvpqylflW58RVYg/s1600/D1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKwLEkD1_gSbkzz6baUDeiR0VOxABYa8IwysqROLjACL5WKPZUAQHMtezHnaN0I29xE8D_K8NsQIaTkgYTZ1yBlgytlRP3zjqnzHTNl-l5agHZrt2zFxXJM28SeqvCvpqylflW58RVYg/s1600/D1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
These are only $20
tools so it's not a big deal until you spend your $20 and get home
and actually use the new one when you realize they aren't all made
the same. The one I wore out was cheaper looking but actually worked
much better because of the handle design. The new one has a handle
spread in the open position that is made for someone with hands the
size of large dinner plates so in order to squeeze the handles it
becomes a two handed operation for us “normal” people.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtslzRTw8puBoGew1pLKglQkJD4elgkaKh_b9nPpMWj-8ZildC_wTT6TUq-rm5r0pGCW6QBPlTLDn9aIz5CKBXEA3D33N5jI1v2PVOneXVXhhUsnHvDb2ZDatRh6yvHVy6ZytcSrbz5g/s1600/D2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtslzRTw8puBoGew1pLKglQkJD4elgkaKh_b9nPpMWj-8ZildC_wTT6TUq-rm5r0pGCW6QBPlTLDn9aIz5CKBXEA3D33N5jI1v2PVOneXVXhhUsnHvDb2ZDatRh6yvHVy6ZytcSrbz5g/s1600/D2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Shop around.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Repair and
re-assembly of both upper and lower left wing panels is now done.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<u>Right wing panel pre-rigging</u></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
The next photo shows me attempting to get the upper right wing in
position over the lower right wing which is positioned in the floor
frame.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHsnEM8sAvAkdV_GhxKHCnbEiFxsI3OMLdI_oQOiyGL7Qzr5efwijlCY2fwoVAC545zaKCtC2nr6JFrWE8sFDptK19bOf4vqV57wnUWLZRQa7an_QH7cPP8f58rHHJywjzUWScZxa1-g/s1600/D10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHsnEM8sAvAkdV_GhxKHCnbEiFxsI3OMLdI_oQOiyGL7Qzr5efwijlCY2fwoVAC545zaKCtC2nr6JFrWE8sFDptK19bOf4vqV57wnUWLZRQa7an_QH7cPP8f58rHHJywjzUWScZxa1-g/s1600/D10.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
It's a good idea
to make at least one reference mark on one of the spars relative to
the fixture on the floor just in case something gets bumped
accidently. The plan directions are a bit sparse as to how to do
this and I found that suspending the upper wing in rough position was
the easiest thing to do. You can see the cords coming down from the
garage rafters.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgURVn4Z7gvpOrb3PnlmygXHv0fr4ZSgZVxvH6TJ1eqZm6qqJ5jKEFu9KqLILMIZz6sF9MmDZIlk9X64w0PBZ0z2rgeIcfyint6UXoV87BmCi1LaomJWkiAKFmUlDga7SjVxoYiIoX3jQ/s1600/D11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgURVn4Z7gvpOrb3PnlmygXHv0fr4ZSgZVxvH6TJ1eqZm6qqJ5jKEFu9KqLILMIZz6sF9MmDZIlk9X64w0PBZ0z2rgeIcfyint6UXoV87BmCi1LaomJWkiAKFmUlDga7SjVxoYiIoX3jQ/s1600/D11.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Next I just
followed the Pre-Rig instruction sheet of the plans to set the wing
stagger (top panel forward of the bottom panel) and dihedral (top
panel outboard of the bottom panel). The stagger is set at 14 inches
and the dihedral is set to 6 inches.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPtCmQMX31tJXurkOxb0RYv1-rK8dKqOg4NpgrpZ4i7U7rxLbsvMItOvVXBQWekqdgDu1oUtuuOVJbSUSUUeQQ6EoOhNKXqw3jd1HNL66llQO65eUW8DPGB8OPBezwIcqf6Qey4hakPA/s1600/D12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPtCmQMX31tJXurkOxb0RYv1-rK8dKqOg4NpgrpZ4i7U7rxLbsvMItOvVXBQWekqdgDu1oUtuuOVJbSUSUUeQQ6EoOhNKXqw3jd1HNL66llQO65eUW8DPGB8OPBezwIcqf6Qey4hakPA/s1600/D12.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Once I got it on
the mark in the upright position, I used Pony clamps to hold the
brackets in position and also made a reference mark on the spars then
installed the struts including the rudder. Next I folded the wing
down to check for binding. My wings weren't perfectly parallel when
folded down but there was no binding and the upper wing plumb lines
were withing an 1/8 inch of the marks so I called it good enough and
drilled through the brackets into the spars to rivet them in place.
If you were building the wing you would not yet have the bottom
brackets set but I'm doing a repair and they are all riveted in place
already. I think this is the weakest part of the plans. It is
difficult to get all this done and get it to come out right. Later
on, during final assembly there is reference to a) extending or
lengthening the spar plugs when you mount them in the spar ends and
also b) bending the spars to get things to fit. I believe if there
was a better way to do the Pre-Rig, you would end up with everything
coming out right. The other source for error is the plan calling for
a flat floor to set the lower wing panel spar rotation (this sets
both the sweep and the dihedral for the spar end that is pre-bent.
The plan specs this to 1/16 of an inch........over a 14 X 3 ft
area.....it would need to be REALLY flat to get the end of those spar ends to within a 1/16 of an inch of the spec the plan calls for.</div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
That completes the
left wing except for using the rib stitching knot to wrap the upper
wing ribs and to strip the old glue from the lower panel spars and
internal struts. Removed all the external struts and stored the wing
panels in prep for the right wing.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<u>Right Wing Panel Pre-rigging</u>
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
The lower right
wing panel is the only one left with it's original covering intact.
There were some significant tears on the bottom of this panel that
you can't see here. Hmmmmmmm, to strip or repair? I already forked
out the money for cloth to cover all four wings and this would be
nitrate/butyrate dope vs the Polyfiber covering system I have pretty
much decided to use which would be a difference in weight.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEw4QbaZY5eeMnnrjKeSEUi77ogaZpf3TyiH29s078heGSEw7VQ2j2fKo6jNhwbYM8uVitvwXGq53fOxYrInwRuC6skP_zMiAD1cMfKURCkfoCMsO0f6sVL1GH03dtpQ7q7plCMt5l5w/s1600/IMG36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEw4QbaZY5eeMnnrjKeSEUi77ogaZpf3TyiH29s078heGSEw7VQ2j2fKo6jNhwbYM8uVitvwXGq53fOxYrInwRuC6skP_zMiAD1cMfKURCkfoCMsO0f6sVL1GH03dtpQ7q7plCMt5l5w/s1600/IMG36.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
I decide to strip
it. This photo shows the hardest portion (it containes the strapping
tape, the adhesive on it is really tough).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvjk9D0Ee_GVpcPEVbHzhwNmJF0NtoQafZudDMNZwOGSz7ahl5s_MP0szpRfFxInuIQ3eUoMKdW7Wotog_eX0o-sF5htmwS2ifzlWp30uwOJC-ilRtD8G5fhmUGO34jwaJLFUwLa2tRw/s1600/IMG38.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvjk9D0Ee_GVpcPEVbHzhwNmJF0NtoQafZudDMNZwOGSz7ahl5s_MP0szpRfFxInuIQ3eUoMKdW7Wotog_eX0o-sF5htmwS2ifzlWp30uwOJC-ilRtD8G5fhmUGO34jwaJLFUwLa2tRw/s1600/IMG38.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Next I'll get the
upper right wing panel and lay it in position over the lower panel in
it's approximate fold down position and install the struts. Be very
attentive when installing the struts to use the right bolt. There
are two sizes within an eighth of an inch difference which is enough
to compress 1” tubing permanently if you use the wrong one in the
specified bracket. Since these remain in place on the finished
glider, there is no need to worry about them later but I suggest that
you color code them during assembly since you'll install them now,
remove them when done and then re-install them during final assembly
so there is ample opportunity to mix them up. Note that the wing panels have the LE facing to the left here....same end of fixture requires the panels to face the opposite of the left hand wing panels. That wraps up this entry.</div>
</div>
</div>
jcoyierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14560463891091725092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6214318667395871924.post-77311008830921965132013-05-15T18:04:00.001-07:002017-09-10T12:27:08.986-07:00 #5 Diagonal Strut Install + Aluminum vs Foam Ribs?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The rivet backing washer idea worked out nicely. I ended up not coming up with any slick way to cut the slot in the thin plywood rib plate. Just drilled three holes in a row and shaved out the slot with a knife. The next task after mounting all the ribs was to install the internal diagonal strut which requires you to hold it in place over the #2 rib and "eyeball" the location of the hole you need to cut through the center of the foam in that rib. I tried but didn't get close enough and had to elongate the first attempt to get the strut to fit through. This strut was also raw stock so had to be wet sanded with 400 grit and treated (oxidized) with chromic acid solution same as the new LE and TE sections.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVIjdwAQhj_zFKhyahaCJeK__B_eG26UvEBfvmX0p9EUawmiQd7_vbCZj94zwpE9kJLgI79aaNHSX4cnvcbK-g3vMOKTMkAggGcqy0SjVx7NJFevDUXjgTrTwb-peiDo7uujMT0OAI9g/s1600/D4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVIjdwAQhj_zFKhyahaCJeK__B_eG26UvEBfvmX0p9EUawmiQd7_vbCZj94zwpE9kJLgI79aaNHSX4cnvcbK-g3vMOKTMkAggGcqy0SjVx7NJFevDUXjgTrTwb-peiDo7uujMT0OAI9g/s1600/D4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Had to fabricate a missing gusset for the internal diagonal strut (thanks Ron Enck!). Don't recall what alloy we ended up using but it wasn't 6061. I am certain it will be plenty tough for the job at this joint, it took quite a bit to form it around the TE using a broom handle as a mandrel.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjElnrycREdpCrMUV9mbgHZKysAxlzPXkLfhmrq3EJG6lR5t3WYfuRCsKMbVuOKejcOONVVoXkZsYUyDV6NWzi2GeWrLbmwq-NchDic3C-rIE2qRLmT9_b1y0_VBM_i7ubTFUbKG2KmTQ/s1600/D3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjElnrycREdpCrMUV9mbgHZKysAxlzPXkLfhmrq3EJG6lR5t3WYfuRCsKMbVuOKejcOONVVoXkZsYUyDV6NWzi2GeWrLbmwq-NchDic3C-rIE2qRLmT9_b1y0_VBM_i7ubTFUbKG2KmTQ/s1600/D3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div>
I set the LE gusset and put a few rivets in to hold it at the set distance from the end of the LE at the root called for in the plans but let the TE position float a bit inboard of the set dimension indicated in the plans because it would have required me to file out the end of the strut significantly to fit at the spec dimension.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-5ZcUchBZZMbi2H6MtRDz10aCtLKBPXCRdTP1owX9R1aKT2GLLEwuXTWxjvgsRxXNJrSK8_-T3jG-pUC9s9mDEJ0Yk23-v7UNF2-JLeEDQBJMQ1w9hn4QXPalaWFd3ScHPmpKwIT3JQ/s1600/D5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-5ZcUchBZZMbi2H6MtRDz10aCtLKBPXCRdTP1owX9R1aKT2GLLEwuXTWxjvgsRxXNJrSK8_-T3jG-pUC9s9mDEJ0Yk23-v7UNF2-JLeEDQBJMQ1w9hn4QXPalaWFd3ScHPmpKwIT3JQ/s1600/D5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
</div>
<div>
I can't rivet the other side yet since the wing is mounted to the floor frame. Recheck that all the rivets on the top side of the wing are in and then remove the wing panel from the frame and flip it, laying it right back down on the frame with the LE tip section now up on the 2 1/2" block. It should lay nicely on the frame with the ribs off the floor.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrMBR0B3e9B7wcZnr-zXF8W15yTAJD3jw_0T_aHT1XoOnPUr14EK2k8VU4BBAXX1uBJn2qNtpm4cT-0kqT2tknOJCj5jTEKxZLTpNlRUD6AA5vDRm3cVVbolCFxsjItkANpXVZYyIvBQ/s1600/D6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrMBR0B3e9B7wcZnr-zXF8W15yTAJD3jw_0T_aHT1XoOnPUr14EK2k8VU4BBAXX1uBJn2qNtpm4cT-0kqT2tknOJCj5jTEKxZLTpNlRUD6AA5vDRm3cVVbolCFxsjItkANpXVZYyIvBQ/s1600/D6.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I show the wing flipped here as I begin to complete the rivet installation on the bottom of the wing. I have place one of the new aluminum stamped ribs next to the old, original wood/foam ribs to show the difference. Just for fun, I weighed them prior to install. The aluminum rib came in at 132g and the wood rib weighed 88g. For 7 ribs per upper wing panel, that's 308g's more for those fancy aluminum ribs which I really doubt are any stronger than the wood/foam ones I'm using. There are 26 ribs in the glider so that's over 2.5 lbs additional weight for those aluminum ribs. I'm sure the reason they started using them was to offer a significant time saving in construction. Myself, I will do whatever I can to keep the weight down. Looking back at original Easy Riser glider specs, says the glider alone should weigh in at only 50lbs (that's using dope to treat the 1.4oz Dacron cloth). A 50lb glider is good, especially when I think about being able to only have to carry one side at a time over to where I will set up (that's 25lbs). The idea here is to be able to still be doing this when I'm 80+.....I think it's realistic. I am now looking to find a source for the foam they used in the event I ever need to fabricate new ribs. Attended my first local chapter meeting of the EAA (Experimental Aircraft Association) and within an hour after getting back home, had successfully joined the national association and sent in my check for the local chapter dues. What a gold mine of resources!</div>
</div>
jcoyierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14560463891091725092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6214318667395871924.post-52142602917869843052013-05-11T21:57:00.000-07:002017-09-10T12:28:16.165-07:00#4 Re-using Wood/Foam Ribs<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Easy Riser glider repair #4<br />
May 11,2013<br />
Got side-tracked the last several days with all the hot, dry weather (feels like late June) in Oregon so I've been working on the Easy Riser trailer outside.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy1-N5h-myzv-51ogjxwemwJfkY3OgnFfbXdqZsR0BZ2icXNvzcuMI32e6zj06RLaRLDTaAI6faMbY_TnBDZjwKC70qFgsbU-BWbYpMRHoaLbYFRr7w_pZ3WlXKhLFt-qAPqeXasT_Mw/s1600/D12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy1-N5h-myzv-51ogjxwemwJfkY3OgnFfbXdqZsR0BZ2icXNvzcuMI32e6zj06RLaRLDTaAI6faMbY_TnBDZjwKC70qFgsbU-BWbYpMRHoaLbYFRr7w_pZ3WlXKhLFt-qAPqeXasT_Mw/s1600/D12.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The left upper root strut is now riveted in place and I have to re-work the ribs in order to install them. To remove them from the damaged wing, I had to drill out rivets holding them in position. Here's a shot of one of the ribs after removal:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqmbYUuRaq8RGIY_trMhrfB_ARe0L81SMKmSR4MfMhCQU7SgeQ0s_eo4zbh9qJVV5ydm2c7uwgEOnHye5R6dQZuejAgmx7oCvCd7YFs9r9qiJBslkUmcQE-rXZZiIs8U3zst53h02Q1w/s1600/D5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqmbYUuRaq8RGIY_trMhrfB_ARe0L81SMKmSR4MfMhCQU7SgeQ0s_eo4zbh9qJVV5ydm2c7uwgEOnHye5R6dQZuejAgmx7oCvCd7YFs9r9qiJBslkUmcQE-rXZZiIs8U3zst53h02Q1w/s1600/D5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
On most of them, the rivet stem stayed in the rib and the hole in the rib cap strip is now larger than it was originally. To re-rivet with any hope of having the rivet head to grip under the cap strip, I decided to cut a slot in the side of the rib end cap, remove the rivet stem, slide in a rivet washer and re-rivet using a 3/8" stem rivet instead of the original 1/4".</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh08qO5kQzNCtisozVsZ4vYLesgXfRpFFArPE8kvdEXu2R0q-mPMHBPRVnVxQFB2ZCwK9KZ2-hZ66o4mv4Jt2ghkpJxK7aZVMVQhPnO6gjsKahHwcEoVaUTOOM3Ptnylef93VCSCp6k3w/s1600/D4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh08qO5kQzNCtisozVsZ4vYLesgXfRpFFArPE8kvdEXu2R0q-mPMHBPRVnVxQFB2ZCwK9KZ2-hZ66o4mv4Jt2ghkpJxK7aZVMVQhPnO6gjsKahHwcEoVaUTOOM3Ptnylef93VCSCp6k3w/s1600/D4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLXRJqqcFrdy7sPHxx-4wRml9YTRirsvpLetuuTUVOPncmpotQ2p6ie4yGaHTrV-C3XOCLjwd-XpBMcrya_WGRfZFPYU-fUPeNYNiEtb8RPadE20hXBGcJQyVV5t2TWu_AZlFXKLShEQ/s1600/DS7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLXRJqqcFrdy7sPHxx-4wRml9YTRirsvpLetuuTUVOPncmpotQ2p6ie4yGaHTrV-C3XOCLjwd-XpBMcrya_WGRfZFPYU-fUPeNYNiEtb8RPadE20hXBGcJQyVV5t2TWu_AZlFXKLShEQ/s1600/DS7.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Six more to go and I'll add another post.</div>
</div>
jcoyierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14560463891091725092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6214318667395871924.post-33723763568240540582013-05-06T11:10:00.003-07:002017-09-10T12:34:37.891-07:00 #3 Wing Joiner Jig, Floor Wing Frame Jig & Fabric Search<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b>Sorry for the disorganization of my reports....this info should have been in the very first post and begins with my retrieval of the trailer and glider/materials to my current home in Dallas, OR</b>.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Tuesday, April 16, 2013</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Went to Spiering's house in Banks and
retrieved my EasyRiser in it's trailer. Nostalgia! It towed like a
dream all the way back (with about 300 lbs tongue weight!). Washed
off the box and trailer then opened it up and pulled out all the
parts. The notes/receipts showed that I had ordered supplies to
repair it except for the material (1.4oz Dacron) and chemicals.
Began the process of figuring out how to proceed.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Wednesday, 4-17-13</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Got the damaged wing stripped of
covering and figured out after some thought that I was going to need
to cut all four flying wires (3/32 cable) which I did with a cut off
blade and my angle grinder. Buy a Felco Cable Shears, you'll need it later anyway. These shears are God-send when needing to cut cable. It turned out that the rear spar was
bent at the root so I proceeded to remove it as well as the leading
edge spar. The root plugs (wing connectors) were both frozen and I
ended up using the cutoff blade to get them off. I couldn't believe
how little adhesion there was of the fabric to the aluminum. I plan
to make a jig to hold an 8” length of tubing so that I can safely
run it through the table saw to make a splice insert for both the
leading and trailing edge spar joints at the tip end. Trying to
layout and mark the new spar to exactly hit the old rivet holes is
going to be difficult. I'll try it first and then make new ones if I
think I need to. Got to decide on what materials to order and get
the order in soon or I will be waiting for supplies to go any
further. By the end of the day tomorrow, I expect to be very nearly
ready to begin cleaning the frame for the upper left damaged wing.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Thursday, 4-18-13</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Took out the right wing and set it up.
I could barely attach the setup (neg. flying wires). Suspicious that
it, too, was tweeked, I checked the rudder motion....it was binding
noticeably and I think would not function to fly. I flipped the wing
over and found myself looking at several significant holes in the
covering caused during the crash....both upper and lower wing panels.
I cut the flying wires and separated the two panels. I also noticed
that ALL the diagonal struts are missing. There should be two for
each wing...one at the tip and one at the root. I also remember
there was fairing tape in the kit or at least I may have ordered it
later for all the exposed struts, something UFM was making part of
the kits. I have yet to find it. I measured the degree of bend in
both upper and lower panels (trailing edge-TE and leading edge-LE).
I did this without the diagonal struts in place but believe they
would have made no difference in the measurements. Also, the bends
were all consistent with what I expected would happen as a result of
the known impact forces.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Things to do next:</div>
<ol>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Research covering process choices and order chemicals (read plans and make a list).</div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Order the fabric (read the plans
and get the amount right)</div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
make both a LE and TE spar splice
jig so you can cut these on the table saw</div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
look into ordering a swaging
pliers</div>
</li>
<li><div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
start a blog for others to follow.</div>
</li>
</ol>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Friday, 4-19-13</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Weighed the fabric found at the fabric
shop shop near SE 122 and Powell in Portland which calculated to be
~1.5 oz/sq yd. Also weighed the old fabric from the kit which was
also ~1.5 oz/yd. They looked nearly identical under my hand
microscope. I placed the order for 45 yds of 48 inch wide white for
approx $120 plus shipping. It was a generic liner material of 100%
polyester.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Called and surfed the web to research
what fabric glue to use and what prep the frame would need. Looks
like there are two choices: either PolyFiber or nitrate dope.
Ordered the Polyfiber process manual for $10 from Spencer Aircraft in
WA.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<b>OK, now that I've got that entry down we can continue where I left off with report #2.</b></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
I had a real scrub job to do on the LE
& TE replacement spars I had ordered back in the late 70's to do
the repair. They had been stored unprotected and had some corrosion
and staining that I had to take off with 400 grit wet/dry sand paper.
I researched covering process options and concluded I have three choices; 1) nitrate and butyrate dope (the Ceconite process), 2) the Stewart system which is a
water-based proces and 3) the Polyfiber process which replaced the old Stits system and is solvent-based similar to the Ceconite process). At
this point I'm going to try the Polyfiber process on the left wing
panels which have both already been stripped of covering.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlaGG-S0fXKddAeVZn-UniRBzTy6ILn4N2x0ivkU05dyNs8Zq4hjcLH0zQXqLS__HEfqFOtP03lvJjMc-KvmQu_V1YeEXb4JrpNvgsM-ku4ORWgq4cLam1NlJHVGZHER7rbzCvZK9NUw/s1600/D19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlaGG-S0fXKddAeVZn-UniRBzTy6ILn4N2x0ivkU05dyNs8Zq4hjcLH0zQXqLS__HEfqFOtP03lvJjMc-KvmQu_V1YeEXb4JrpNvgsM-ku4ORWgq4cLam1NlJHVGZHER7rbzCvZK9NUw/s320/D19.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
The photo above shows the leading edge
being treated with a chromic acid solution. This stuff is available
from aircraft supply houses and is part of the Polyfiber process. As
I understand it, you are actually “anodizing” the aluminum using
a wet chemical process of dilute chromic acid. That's a drywall mud
tray (stainless steel) and a $2 brush. I did about 2-3 ft at a time
(7 minutes reaction time per section per EasyRiser original
instruction plans). I made the mistake of joining the TE spar to the
wing tip BEFORE doing this treatment and that made it really hard to
complete the treatment. Treat all spars and struts BEFORE you
assemble the to avoid this.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
The next thing I needed to do was
fabricate tubing joiners for both the LE and the TE (leading and
trailing) edge spars where they are attached to the wing tip curved
tubing. You cannot use the old ones because you would be drilling blind to hit the old holes. Here's what I came up with;</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibO6rc5EkhRBojr9r960V_u5JIXC6oJsb4Xmlk2k1qFxSyO0C2UIqeRb_Q853V-IMb1-4-Gxt0QXS8-1Zly8wKBBhKs9GsL8LR4uWD5ncw9intsxlmkoXqXcG136h5jiRNBT3YhX35uQ/s1600/D17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibO6rc5EkhRBojr9r960V_u5JIXC6oJsb4Xmlk2k1qFxSyO0C2UIqeRb_Q853V-IMb1-4-Gxt0QXS8-1Zly8wKBBhKs9GsL8LR4uWD5ncw9intsxlmkoXqXcG136h5jiRNBT3YhX35uQ/s320/D17.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
I flipped this over and ran it through
the blade on my little benchtop table saw after spraying the spar
section with WD40 to help keep the aluminum from sticking to the
blade. I used a Freud Non-Ferrous/Plastics 7 1/4” 56 tooth blade
(about $40 at Home Depot). I estimated the slot needed to be about
3/16 wide so I had to make two passes. As you can see, the blade
made it through the tubing before it passed through the end block on
the jig which kept me from getting hit with aluminum shards (they're
hot!). Did the same with the TE spar. Used the broken LE and bent
TE for stock. I used this same blade on a small chop saw to make the
8” section required for the LE joiner (didn't have a pipe cutter
big enough). Finished the cut with a hacksaw because the 7 ¼ blade
couldn't get all the way through the tubing. I used coarse carbide
paper to smooth the outside edges and corner of both joiners and then
treated them both with chromic acid.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWPnIxDcerBYLxdw_EeldYTK2B5F-YmYmZ0VLFh-xgJIPUjmR7St9Lmudy_RxtoDLO9p6yatvx0fGv_IDXmvCd4vQ9xEMrxCHnW7p0ivnUTMhfaPrPlj4YJBINqv_zOEZ5fGEz1N1N8Q/s1600/D18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWPnIxDcerBYLxdw_EeldYTK2B5F-YmYmZ0VLFh-xgJIPUjmR7St9Lmudy_RxtoDLO9p6yatvx0fGv_IDXmvCd4vQ9xEMrxCHnW7p0ivnUTMhfaPrPlj4YJBINqv_zOEZ5fGEz1N1N8Q/s320/D18.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Here's the 1 ½ LE joiner after the
cut.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Next, I assembled the wing frame onto
the concrete floor in my garage. I used concrete screws and a
concrete drill to attach firmly (didn't want to deal with accidently
getting this frame kicked halfway through assembly. I used the
original plan instructions (diagonal measurements) to get the frame
exactly 10ft spacing and within 1/16<sup>th</sup> inch on the chord
width. Now both the LE and TE spars have been joined to the tip piece and riveted. The upper left panel is laying in place here ready for me to
reform the bent gussets used to attach the root and diagonal struts.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7EbiCE9UNCHynFaAdxWPBZy6zWFkrAqZgIVCp9SgG1dp8YYZiiDWfgfCPhF8pFR2XMUTKObuppu7a4xfdXnEKfpHdvuzCe82HQJ7K3S4mGRlhzVbdqsnzWnuZSj5f70P5lt9NvrazOg/s1600/D1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7EbiCE9UNCHynFaAdxWPBZy6zWFkrAqZgIVCp9SgG1dp8YYZiiDWfgfCPhF8pFR2XMUTKObuppu7a4xfdXnEKfpHdvuzCe82HQJ7K3S4mGRlhzVbdqsnzWnuZSj5f70P5lt9NvrazOg/s320/D1.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
jcoyierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14560463891091725092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6214318667395871924.post-50471551225510398852013-05-05T22:05:00.000-07:002017-09-10T12:36:09.971-07:00 #2 Assessing The Damage<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div style="text-align: left;">
I wanted to mention that if you look close at the photo in the first post of the left wing panels you can actually see the trailing edge took a significant set bend also as the leading edge impacted (I'm not certain what it hit) and my body kept going forward along with the hang cage. I have not yet removed the right wing panel covering since I did not have the inboard and outboard setup struts to completely set up that wing. I am hoping that when I do this, I will not see any other bent tubes and the tip rudder will move freely. If that is the case, I'll have a much easier time getting this ship back in the air since I'll only have to patch the holes in the right wing lower panel vs recovering the entire 4 wings. <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">I
am not hopeful however since when I did set up the right wing, the
setup wires (negative load wires) were almost impossible to connect
indicating more extensive tweeking of the whole airframe. I doubt
that the flight struts (the ones you install once you expand the wing
and attach the negative wires) will make any difference in this.
I'll visit this later.</span></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMHkhPY_6RQyh0REr4YPAft4u9hr8zGGySeztctdYzh_MmcEA3O_nuQfx4DzqtirUtylLmh2WCf0sYCGnEwjH8RC67sm9xdWIWPc6yEQbkysE52Ai2subaku3DR_o-ZSNNZ2JI5vWAtg/s1600/D1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMHkhPY_6RQyh0REr4YPAft4u9hr8zGGySeztctdYzh_MmcEA3O_nuQfx4DzqtirUtylLmh2WCf0sYCGnEwjH8RC67sm9xdWIWPc6yEQbkysE52Ai2subaku3DR_o-ZSNNZ2JI5vWAtg/s320/D1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Another part of this project involves finishing the trailer I had fabricated when I first built the glider. It's basically a plywood box with 1X2 framework, fiberglassed outside and carpeted inside on a Caulkins boat trailer. Both ends are removeable. More on this later. <br />
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Here's a shot of the upper left wing
panel that ended up with a broken LE (you can see the rough end of
the broken spar. I am removing the polyester/dope fabric along with
the strapping tape...the tape stuck amazingly well and was very
difficult to completely remove even after all these years. I guess
being trapped inside the wing did not allow the adhesive to dry out.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhafg_tW4ce8k1jgBtO39qI-LnS-KcvJDnnkZpC_sYfWjlhQFN2wzrMt7oqRU_fDHnW-_4W1zKtZhpI7gvkkJEuqirZHftX9TWAIKpweSjNBV6GyAX0ov-pa1zwamvzbar7apX3oxutiA/s1600/D3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhafg_tW4ce8k1jgBtO39qI-LnS-KcvJDnnkZpC_sYfWjlhQFN2wzrMt7oqRU_fDHnW-_4W1zKtZhpI7gvkkJEuqirZHftX9TWAIKpweSjNBV6GyAX0ov-pa1zwamvzbar7apX3oxutiA/s320/D3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
Other readily apparent damage to the
glider were tears in the lower right wing panel shown here;</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV0LdLALEey8mR0UOuucqoWfe4MjlMYIeCjyHuw33v175qGpTYoPRs7Ryp_CwB7qvKmKsbwh1Y_TJKK15SdGxMps_j6LsmpdrlIc3dXzUiquIxrNCj1u14gxXN5wn9XQhXwCCpQFroWg/s1600/D5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV0LdLALEey8mR0UOuucqoWfe4MjlMYIeCjyHuw33v175qGpTYoPRs7Ryp_CwB7qvKmKsbwh1Y_TJKK15SdGxMps_j6LsmpdrlIc3dXzUiquIxrNCj1u14gxXN5wn9XQhXwCCpQFroWg/s320/D5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
This next shot shows a long gash on the
underside of the left lower wing panel which I decided not to salvage
with a patch (I stripped this panel).</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL-ITdO4oiy1j9auYhfztIgPoB6L8rBMRPgw8gELvOgFN_ddNkUogOumUsgMoNt_cKM5gA1BjIJzfs8FYGGaKBThqwVdzbn8kwmiUWReOc66zwbCz0Ij6AN5jJ-1mHSBJTFEW0dE8Ajw/s1600/D6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL-ITdO4oiy1j9auYhfztIgPoB6L8rBMRPgw8gELvOgFN_ddNkUogOumUsgMoNt_cKM5gA1BjIJzfs8FYGGaKBThqwVdzbn8kwmiUWReOc66zwbCz0Ij6AN5jJ-1mHSBJTFEW0dE8Ajw/s320/D6.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0in; text-align: left;">
Below is a shot showing the upper left
wing panel TE spar at the root. The bend is out about 11/16” and
is located right where I expected it would be, just inboard of the
internal diagonal strut gusset. The strut was not bent at all.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqmSQ8JuO23P8of5srL6vt3MKgNc3N-k174KvmxwmaP2StLEvXBRXdZl-bfOeSFR4j1GRY4PZSmioHKB33bqczkDKfshzRSy2giaEzxIQjg3NvIwojUvQiyxd8CUbng3-Cvt4T7RNR2w/s1600/D11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqmSQ8JuO23P8of5srL6vt3MKgNc3N-k174KvmxwmaP2StLEvXBRXdZl-bfOeSFR4j1GRY4PZSmioHKB33bqczkDKfshzRSy2giaEzxIQjg3NvIwojUvQiyxd8CUbng3-Cvt4T7RNR2w/s320/D11.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Now to re-build the upper left wing panel. To be continued.....</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
</div>
jcoyierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14560463891091725092noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6214318667395871924.post-71945920383272692862013-05-01T22:41:00.001-07:002017-09-10T12:40:16.477-07:00History of this EasyRiser glider<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
post date - 5-1-13<br />
Ordered as a kit from John Moody/Larry Mauro in late 70's as a full motor package. Completed the non-motorized glider portion of the kit using all the original kit materials (Dacron fabric, nitrate dope, 6061 T6 .035 wall aluminum tubing). Here are a couple shots of the assembled wing prior to covering taken back in the late 70's.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO0Nzc6DZPCBxf6hGpDcPl_F3uFChaTSq46MAvz0uNgh_YgaHIU5EwdHxnCkdQCLpbgGGRkIHhzkRstOqYFX1OKuFvT5BUrXCZK_Zm8Mu06bG8mL49QfQTJwkN9j8ipvBJw-rmmkeLrw/s1600/p5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO0Nzc6DZPCBxf6hGpDcPl_F3uFChaTSq46MAvz0uNgh_YgaHIU5EwdHxnCkdQCLpbgGGRkIHhzkRstOqYFX1OKuFvT5BUrXCZK_Zm8Mu06bG8mL49QfQTJwkN9j8ipvBJw-rmmkeLrw/s1600/p5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVEEBbOyn51H5ZBy4Jafv_Hxlh8iuG8J5ChAWmPyABxibOnZXgV7UskTjU_4LSs1TKcAs20Depr8VAoPjNpycFmY8aAlN0StHOqPt3Zn2j54Uh4BbpDfbNgxUqE4E_X-g-Vij7UwFPCw/s1600/p6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVEEBbOyn51H5ZBy4Jafv_Hxlh8iuG8J5ChAWmPyABxibOnZXgV7UskTjU_4LSs1TKcAs20Depr8VAoPjNpycFmY8aAlN0StHOqPt3Zn2j54Uh4BbpDfbNgxUqE4E_X-g-Vij7UwFPCw/s1600/p6.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
On the maiden flight (1982 I believe), I managed to execute a whip stall after launch resulting in a dive into a large bush from approximately 60 ft. The frame was bent with the most obvious damage being the upper left wing panel leading edge which broke just outboard of the root, diagonal internal brace. The trailing edge also took a set bend near the root and also bent parts of the left rudder frame. I never did figure out what I had done to cause the abrupt pitch up other than I remember moving back in the control frame to slow down in what felt like some nice lift. Very likely that I moved too far and too fast, being used to my flex wing, and the Easy responded. I was not hanging from a suspension point, all I had for a harness was a hammock strung between the leading and trailing ends of the control cage which may have amplified the weight shift change.<br />
<br />
My mission is to re-rig and re-cover the entire airframe. My hope is that this blog will be discovered by other potential EasyRiser pilots/builders. I plan to break the posts up into separate parts of the process of repair.<br />
<br />
To begin, here is a photo of the left wing where you can see the upper panel leading edge spar is broken at the second rib out from the root. I have not yet removed the fabric from the lower panel.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQnoC2sOTysSoI8kV5XzP8pzr7SHFlh7W2OxB9mVcDK_KB-c7C5QEx5hBhf6A0QNyVBnR5JQv09d2GqSQ7p0ZUxTgsOIOpTfgI4KKYjgcHmwi5iA0FZDUdZN5FSoP91oO62E9-mdTboA/s1600/IMG_0024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQnoC2sOTysSoI8kV5XzP8pzr7SHFlh7W2OxB9mVcDK_KB-c7C5QEx5hBhf6A0QNyVBnR5JQv09d2GqSQ7p0ZUxTgsOIOpTfgI4KKYjgcHmwi5iA0FZDUdZN5FSoP91oO62E9-mdTboA/s320/IMG_0024.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
You can see this kit had the original foam/wood ribs which were soon replaced with stamped aluminum ribs in subsequent kits from UFM. The hole in the second rib was where the internal brace passed through it which I had removed after the accident. You can also see the front end of the second rib is gone (broke off on impact). On close inspection, I saw no other delamination of the fabric to the rib cap strips anywhere else on the glider frame which I thought was amazing given the impact it took to break the leading edge. The fabric was not rib laced or stitched which I learned much later was really standard practice on any aircraft that is cloth covered. The next post will include my initial assessment after removing the covering on all four panels.</div>
jcoyierhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14560463891091725092noreply@blogger.com2